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Thread: List The Diffrent RPM Activated Switches Out There

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Posts: 61-70 of 105
2009-12-05 06:35:40
#61
My 830452 (the one everyone has been asking about) keeps on losing the pulse setting. Which means I keep on losing VVL. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. I've heard other people have the same problem too.
2009-12-05 07:15:54
#62
the summit one? i've had mine almost a year, had the battery out of the car for a month.. it still kept the setting all this time..
2009-12-29 11:05:10
#63
What a good cheap full throttle switch that i can run?
2010-01-04 03:28:42
#64
I never hang out in the VE section, but I swear by the MSS.

1, because it's the smallest unit you'll ever find with 2 independent activation solenoids.
2, because it has a screen, and can be on-the-fly tuned from the driver's seat in about 10 seconds. No pills, just turn a dial and confirm.
3. because it's not just an RPM window switch, it can read up to 3 parameters and activate when those criteria are met (voltage, boost, TPS, speed, pretty much anything analog).
4. because it has a built in alarm. Although the alarm makes a pretty tacky shift light, I'm pretty sure you could program it to signal an event such as low oil pressure and even prevent the cams from activating under those conditions.
2010-01-04 03:37:37
#65
Originally Posted by THOR
i switch mine at 4900 rpm.... this gets rid a most a ma wheel spin in first when the vvl hits....


Technically, the tires shouldn't spin when the VVL engages. I know people love the sudden burst of power that comes when the vvl switches over, but if it's that dramatic, you're switching too late and you're losing power in that small moment before the high lobe kicks on. You want the high cam to kick in exactly where the small cam leaves off.

You should make 4 dyno passes. 1 with no cams, 1 with both cams, 1 with intake cam, 1 with exhaust cam. Overlay them (just the torque curve to make things easier to read), find the 4 intersection points, and from there, you can figure out where you want to activate each cam. Each setup will produce unique results.
2010-01-04 21:31:58
#66
Im using a Apexi Neo and MSD window switch to activate my cams
2010-01-10 16:32:44
#67
great thread!

im looking at the msd rpm window switches - do i need some sort of data output unit for them - or can i wire them straight from a coil or tacho signal.

Tehri website is confuzzling!
2010-01-10 19:52:22
#68
whats so good about the msd switch vs the summit switch?
2010-01-17 08:20:45
#69
$20 ebay shift light + relay
2010-03-17 17:52:57
#70
Granatelli GM-DWS100 Digital Dual Window Switch



Dual Window Switch

The switch can activate a shift light, while controlling 1 stage of nitrous, or it can control 2 stages of nitrous independent of each other. It can be used for many other applications as well, such as water injection or methanol injection. It also works with a magneto, so it can work with a high or low voltage tachometer. If you don’t have a tachometer for a connection, don’t worry, this switch can be installed to take the reading from a fuel injector wire. Then you could also drive an external tach! Best of all, it also has the ability to read from 0 to 12-volt throttle position sensor (TPS) signals (0 to 5 is standard) or 5 to 0-volt. This simple box is fully programmable from 1,000 to 15,000 rpm.
At a glance:
  • Dual Window Switches Act Independant of Each Another
  • TPS Trigger - For Wide Open Throttle Control
  • Tach Out - Drives Any Tachometer
  • Built in Tach Adapter - Speaks Ford
  • RPM Scale - 1,000 - 15,900
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