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I decided to port this over from the old forum. I don't know how long the image hosting will last (at the old place). I can't edit or change my original post there ![rolleyes](images/emoji/upset/eye_roll.gif)
Well it's simple enough and I've seen a couple of pictures here on what it's supposed to look like. So I went off that and here is how I did it. I was going to use this stuff for my P11, but my buddy got rod knock in his P10 so it went for the greater good.
What you need..
You need a VE head. I bought this one for $400 from a forum member.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/head.jpg)
And a block, in my case we found a perfectly good JDM roller rocker at my engine place.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/roller.jpg)
I recommend new head bolts.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/part1.jpg)
And you need some oil line fittings. Specifically 1/8NPT to -6AN (x2) and a 1-2ft length of -6 braided line. Gofastdepot.com sells this "kit" and that is what I used.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/part2.jpg)
Block Prep:
Step 1.
Remove old engine with rod-knock
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/OG.jpg)
Step 2.
Remove head off of the roller rocker engine. Now it is no longer a roller rocker engine![:D](images/emoji/happy/big_grin.gif)
This engine has a 4 counterweight crank and the oil pump looks just like the VVL one. I also noticed that the pistons seem to be the same as the regular 9.5:1 DE ones. I haven't checked to see if they are taller or not. They have a slight dish and do not have valve reliefs.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock.jpg)
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock2.jpg)
I used a razor blade to remove the old lead headgasket. It felt perfectly smooth afterwards.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock3.jpg)
My buddy had fun with the spraypaint.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock4.jpg)
I layed the VE/Metal Headgasket on, I made sure the engine was at TDC and put white out on the corresponding line on the crank pulley for future timing fun.
Block is ready. Now for the head.
![rolleyes](images/emoji/upset/eye_roll.gif)
Well it's simple enough and I've seen a couple of pictures here on what it's supposed to look like. So I went off that and here is how I did it. I was going to use this stuff for my P11, but my buddy got rod knock in his P10 so it went for the greater good.
What you need..
You need a VE head. I bought this one for $400 from a forum member.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/head.jpg)
And a block, in my case we found a perfectly good JDM roller rocker at my engine place.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/roller.jpg)
I recommend new head bolts.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/part1.jpg)
And you need some oil line fittings. Specifically 1/8NPT to -6AN (x2) and a 1-2ft length of -6 braided line. Gofastdepot.com sells this "kit" and that is what I used.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/part2.jpg)
Block Prep:
Step 1.
Remove old engine with rod-knock
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/OG.jpg)
Step 2.
Remove head off of the roller rocker engine. Now it is no longer a roller rocker engine
![:D](images/emoji/happy/big_grin.gif)
This engine has a 4 counterweight crank and the oil pump looks just like the VVL one. I also noticed that the pistons seem to be the same as the regular 9.5:1 DE ones. I haven't checked to see if they are taller or not. They have a slight dish and do not have valve reliefs.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock.jpg)
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock2.jpg)
I used a razor blade to remove the old lead headgasket. It felt perfectly smooth afterwards.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock3.jpg)
My buddy had fun with the spraypaint.
![](http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/711/medium/freshblock4.jpg)
I layed the VE/Metal Headgasket on, I made sure the engine was at TDC and put white out on the corresponding line on the crank pulley for future timing fun.
Block is ready. Now for the head.