Well, maybe I'll throw some stuff up against the wall here....
The pin that looks melted/burnt: Appears to be ECCS relay (self shut-off) pin #4. The burnt look on the pin may be a situation where when Calum (or somebody else) was setting up the board, he accidentally soldered the two white wires (currently going to ECCS ground - pin 106) to pin #4 by mistake and then had to de-solder the connection. This could be the reason for the state of the pin. There is also a chance that my guess is wrong and that the state of the pin is indicating another issue. It may also be a combination of the two. I would check the relay next to the ECU (blue or green depending on year). You could also swap it out with another known working relay (matching colour) that you don't really need (foglight, horn, rear defroster) and then try and start the car. If this relay is blown, I believe it would keep the car from starting. A blown relay may show as having burnt or mis-coloured leads/contacts or it may just have a noticeable rattling sound when you shake it. You can also check for continuity between specific contact points.
MAF: I believe you mentioned in one of your posts about using a different MAF (different from the ECU) and wondering if it would keep the car from starting. It should not keep the car from starting; It would only cause it to idle improperly, want to cause the car to die without keeping your foot on the accelerator, hit the 3250 rpm limp mode limiter or generally just act funky. While troubleshooting a wiring issue on my B15 (back in late 2011), I ran my VE engine with Maxima E60 MAF and my '01 SE roller rocker ECU. It started and idled just fine.
None of this may help you out but it is worth a shot. I would check/switch out the ECCS relay as I mentioned and then try to start the car with the your B14 (non-modified) "core" ECU. Check to make sure the cylinders are dry first; You can remove the spark plugs and dry them out if need be. If the cylinders still show signs of flooding once you attempt the start, you can unhook the power to the injectors and try and start it that way. Starting fluid, brake cleaner, carb cleaner may be of some use here as well. If the car starts, you can then try and use the Calum ECU to start the car, for comparison. (On a side note, have you checked to make sure the injectors/seals aren't leaking when you prime the fuel pump? Maybe you can check for that after?
* Also, can you upload a better picture of the pin that appears to be melted/burnt/misshapen and the other area in question? *
GL
Last edited by B15NEOVVL
on 2013-08-10
at 23-16-31.
Reason: correction on ECU pin identification