Thread: Well this sucks...

Could I switch out the head or is the cam switch the only way to go?
This is my daily, and while I'd love for it to be quicker, I have to be careful I don't go crazy.

Because of what's happened, I've had to put my 280z 2JZ NA-T project further on the back burner...

I have the DET ECU, but the motor harness has been mangled. That's ok though as I've made many engine harness before (granted, most were for stand alone apps). You run VEMS right? I've been megasquirting Zs for 5 years now, maybe I'll just do that instead...

I'm not entirely sure. =/

Sure do.

After reading my eyes out, apparently the bluebird harness is practically the same as the FWD SR20DE harness. All I have to switch out is the ECU.

I've got the donor car, it's in worse shape then I thought, so instead of fixing that I'm going to put the SR20DET into my 93.

If I have the time/space, I'm going to fix the DE and put it in my 71 Honda N600 in the rear. That'll be a rocket...

Starting to rip the engine out today. Pictures will follow...

Removing the axles is a sinch by unbolting the strut housing to the knuckle, cranking the wheel to the appropriate side, and presto! It's out!

Also, removing the axle nut is a lot easier with the tires on and the car on the ground (or ramps). For archival sake, B13 axle nuts are 32mm (1 1/4 in) and P10 nuts are 36mm (1.5in).

Removing the engine from the bottom was a bitch without a hoist. I'm getting one tomorrow to hopefully finish up. The engine in the SE-R is out, and the G20, I just need the axles, shift linkage and mounts and it's out. Hopefully going to be running around boosted tomorrow!

Engine is in and bolted up with the old harness (the original harness out of the G20 was destroyed beyond repair).

All that's left is fluids, electrical connectors, IC piping, and axles. Woo!
Should be running boosted tomorrow!

It Lives!!!

Awesome! It's taken me 5 years and I'm still not boosted. You did it in the span of a few days. Something is wrong here. =]

Can't believe you did it with the help of my 10 minute, literally out of my own аss, how-to list.

Your list was a lifesaver!
The FSM for these cars seems a little convoluted to me, and your list basically made it so that I didn't have to remove what I didn't need to. We pulled the SE-R's engine through the bottom, the G20's through the top (it SUCKED), and dropped in the DET from the bottom.

The DET and G20 ECUs both had burnt traces, so I opened up the DET one and jumped the burnt traces (2 on top, one on the bottom). The car runs and drives, but I'm afraid to open it up (it is my DD after all...). But it sure lights up those stock size tires!

Now I have to go boost leak hunting... I know I have one in my MAF tubing (used flex tubing to drive it home, and a part got a rip), 1 in the recirc fitting, and another in the fast idle valve. That's just preliminary though...

Also, it seems that my turbo might be burning some oil, I'm going to change the PCV and see if that helps. Do these engines have a block breather? I didn't look for one, and I'm hoping they don't as I might be pressurizing the block.

I did it mostly by myself, worked Friday afternoon, and most of Sat, Sun, and Monday. Got it driving this afternoon. Just needs the bumper and the hood put back on. Oh, and the ECU needs to be bolted down.

Just easy stuff!

Onto the pics:




Yea yea it's dirty... I'm going to degrease the heck out of it. I'm also going to get my spare VC powdercoated bronze, as I think bronze wheels on a white SE-R look trick! With all this work, I might as well do coilovers to lower the thing... I think I'm a glutton for punishment... (My 280z is currently getting coilovers, big brakes, and I just finished rewiring it. All parts I designed).

Any updates? =]

Yessur

Redid the IC piping, running blowthrough now, put the front facia on, and the old dented hood (car came the way, just haven't bought one yet).

Here's a crappy cell pic:


Talk about sleeper, especially with stock everything and a barely cut airdam.
Too bad the BOV is louder then sin... Haha

Problems since swap:
1) Clutch destroyed, put in the Nissan Exedy from my blown motor
2) CV axle started clicking, going to replace both
3) When boost comes on if you're not WOT at torque peak it hits what seems to be a rev limiter. I'm pretty sure it's a combination of the knock sensor code and torque peak.
4) Some interesting characteristics observed through the consult interface (post to come)
5) Knock Sensor code (does anyone know if the avenir knock sensor is 2 wire or 1?)
6) O2 sensor not working
7) Compressor leaking oil into intake track. Need to rebuild it
8) Leaky eBay bov (came with motor), fixed by replacing the o-ring with a much bigger one.


Other then that I've been putting the hurt on cars locally. The car is ridiculously loud with open downpipe once the wastegate opens.
I can't launch it worth a ****, I either bog or light up the tires, this is my first high powered FWD car so I'm not quite used to it yet. With a terrible bog I still managed to pull a under 7sec 0-60 according to my logs. Pretty respectable for stock boost I think. I need to move the IC about 2 inches to the left, i hung it by eye and it's off center and it's driving me crazy...