Thread: ahhh... google docs - my "Staged" B13 mod checklist

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2010-01-02 16:44:37

#21

vqman

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Originally Posted by Isfahan

What are you building this for?

i highly doubt i will ever get to stage 4 (let alone stage 5) of any of these... maybe suspension and turbo.. but i'm building this mostly for fun, to have a fun car to drive, because I want to, because I can I guess. No real purpose such as some racing circuit or whatever... I will do the driving events at any conventions i go to and would like to go on a road course for fun, but I will never race it on a road course.. I don't have the time or money to practice enough to get good enough to compete.

Originally Posted by Isfahan

I wouldn't go past your "Stage 2" upgrades for the brakes. Just get the right pads and you can do most anything with the AD22s. I have the 11" fastbrakes kit (with Wilwood calipers) and it is overkill. Look at what a lot of the roadracers are running, and the AD22s are good enough. The Wilwood calipers get into squeaking problems which are annoying.

i would probably never go past the Z32 calipers and I would only do those for looks.. I had AD22's on my last SE-R and yes, they offered PLENTY of braking power and did well with carbotech pads on the track at the 2005 convention

Originally Posted by Isfahan

Will GC camber plates fit with OEM-sized springs?

i don't know a whole lot about camber plates..

Originally Posted by Isfahan

And why are you going from Koni Reds to Yellows? Their dampening curves are very similar. Yes, you can externally adjust the yellows, but are you going to be going to the track enough to make use of that? I have yellows in front, reds in the rear. I set them to what Steve Foltz recommended and haven't touched them since. Too much adjustability can just make things confusing.

strictly for the external adjustability. Steve did my red koni's on my last SE-R.. I couldn't adjust them too often. With the yellow's I'd probably find two or three settings that I would go for, something a tad south of full stiff and something a tad north of full soft... and something in between. I definitely want the yellows. I only bought the reds THIS time around because I found some used, already shortened for a good price. If for any reason, just to make it feel like I have a different car from time to time..

Originally Posted by Isfahan

Instead, I'd get a front progress sway bar and whiteline caster bushings.

i already found a used Suspension Techniques front Sway Bar.. waiting on shipment from Ameen..

Originally Posted by Isfahan

Check out the STi muffler for your exhaust mods. Highly recommended!

yeah at what point? before turbo or after I go turbo? I wanted to get a muffler that had 3" pipe connections so I could upgrade the pipe later after I (if I) go turbo without having to buy a new muffler.. don't know if that'll work.. but it was a thought..

[

Originally Posted by Isfahan

I'd put the Koyo higher up in your stages. Our cars like to overheat! Don't forget to add some gauges to monitor your fluids!

yeah I had some issue's this last summer, I think it was just a bubble though..

Originally Posted by Isfahan

I'd highly recommend the B15 trans with lightened flywheel before you go cryo-treating. The 6-speed was a goal of mine for a long time too, but the gear ratios on the B15 trans just made my car come alive. Get one, put it in and see how you like it before going for the expense and modification needed to put a 6-speed in. If you still want to change it, you could probably sell the B15 trans for as much as you bought it for.

i didn't realize the gear ratios of the B15 tranny were that much better than the 6 speed.. what I liked about the 6 speed was the reports of great gas mileage on long trips, I get 26 to 28 now on the highway, when averaging 65-70 mph...

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2010-01-02 21:16:36

#22

Isfahan

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Originally Posted by vqman

The STi muffler has a 2.5" inlet. It is great, especially for bolt-on NA or VE because it is cheap, quiet, and flows well. Vadim has one on his Turbo car and I doubt he's getting rid of it anytime soon. I had a Magnaflow straight through (with 2.5" piping) before and I HATED it. The drone was killing me.

Originally Posted by vqman

Sorry if I misled. I was referring to the difference between the stock B13 trans and a B15 trans. Since a tuneup I've been getting low to mid 30's in mixed driving with the B15 trans. I had wanted the 6th gear for the mileage too, but considering the cost difference between the two, you'd need outstanding mileage from the 6 speed for a number of years to start making up the difference in starting price.

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2010-01-02 22:13:18

#23

Nismo_34

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Originally Posted by vqman

i don't know a whole lot about camber plates..

The Cusco Camber plates require GC or something similar.

OEM has camber plates that can be made to work with lowering springs, OR you can get top mounts. I think any top mount will work with any spring, but don't quote me on that!

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2010-05-05 02:05:41

#24

vqman

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bump for updates to the Original Post link

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2012-01-02 01:09:02

#25

vqman

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things I want to buy and replace on my car before I get it back on the road:

more to buy for B13:

brakes:
maxima rear calipers
nx japan rear rotors
ad22 front calipers (already have on car, but want new set to paint)
nx front rotors (want slotted, good quality stuff here)
altima master cylinder

suspension:
front camber plates or something that lowers the front more. (only drawback to hypercoils)
progress rear sway bar

steering:
ES steering rack bushings
tie rods
steering rack boots
new steering rack? maybe?

ecu:
jk tuning rt
some wideband

engine:
new RR/VE oil pan
N1 cams

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2012-01-02 01:20:58

#26

Chriscar

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Do those rack bushings now, while your engine is out, you'll be hating life if you try and do it with the engine in place. Might as well knock out the rack boots as well. And if you don't already have one, get a B14 PS reservoir, they seal better than the stocker, look much betterm and are cheap new from Nissan (under $50 iirc).

C

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2012-01-02 01:26:06

#27

vqman

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yes sir, that is the plan to do this before the VE goes in. I am still waiting on a friend to fix my lower oil pan... he is really busy, so I may just buy a new one to give him a break.

is replacing the B14 power steering reservoir an alternative option to replacing the entire rack?

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2012-01-02 01:29:11

#28

Chriscar

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What's wrong with your VE oil pan? If it's got a dent, they're easy as pie to bang back out with a hammer, mini-bfh, etc. I've done plenty of them and it just takes a few minutes.

My reservoir suggestion has nothing to do with the rack, it's just a nice OEM upgrade to the leaky stock B13 one.

C

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2012-01-02 01:39:58

#29

vqman

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Originally Posted by Chriscar

well the VE oil pan was dented, and I had a B15 RR oil pan off of the B15 motor and trans I picked up.... the B15 oil pan looked flawless until we got it off. There was a TON of RTV which we determined was there to stop leaks from an oilpan that had been torqued down to hard and bent out of shape.. I guess I can hammer out the VE oil pan, it should be an easier fix than the B15 oil pan, but I had cleaned up the B15 oil pan real well, and didn't want to lose all the time invested into that.

about the steering rack, what could I look for to see if I should replace it? I would prefer to do it now if it needs it.. but I don't know what to look for.

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