Thread: ahhh... google docs - my "Staged" B13 mod checklist

Most Bad-ass RSTB ever made for our cars. A bargain at 250 for what it does. If you are planning on foam filling/stitch welding the chassis like I am doing (and it looks like your going to) it is pointless to leave the Active Tuning bar. Don't get me wrong its a great bar for the money. However for the stiffest, most capable chassis this bar is an absolute must!



Keep in mind that Wilwood does make an 11 inch kit as well however, I would rec the 11in Wilwood kit over the Z32 calipers. Once I drove Superblackz's car and felt his brake feel and stopping power just in normal street driving I was hooked. IMHO the best (Stage 5?) would be:

-Altima U13 MC
-Wilwood 11.75 inch kit
-Greg V's Stainless lines
-ATE Super Blue brake fluid
-Maxima rear brake upgrade

That should be more than enough for all your braking needs. The 11.75 kit would look amazing under the Volks. Not sure if it would clear the Nismo wheels you have tho very few 15's have the needed caliper clearance

i was referring to the fast brakes AD22 adapter kit that lets you use 11" rotors with AD22 calipers.. fast brakes makes that right?? (along with the 4 pot which I think is overkill for an SE-R)

EDIT:

in the thread on sr20forum he did make it clear..

oh yeah, and I noticed no comments about the stuff on the right side of the checklist..

everything you guys commented on is on the left side.. you gotta scroll over to see the stuff on the right..

As far as the fuel modifications why spend the money on new OE injectors? Rarely do our injectors need replacement or even cleaning. Some companies offer ultrasonic cleaning and balance tests etc. However people that have tried that always seem to get good reports and the companies tell them it wasn't even needed.

Has anyone purchased that octo bar yet?

Looks interesting.

Yes myself, SuperblackZ, and ShawnB

ah the joy of conflicting information! lol.

i was told that the injectors can start spraying a mist that isn't as fine as when the injectors are new, especially when they get really old, regardless of mileage.. and a fine mist will burn more efficiently.. yada yada..

I've also been told they can start to leak just a little causing poor fuel economy.. i am lucky to get 28 mpg on road trips.. usually I get 26 mpg on the highway.

I've read that a fuel pressure regulator, better (more consistent) fuel pump and new injectors will give you better combustion...power...gas mileage, etc..
even on a stock motor.... I'm willing to try because I the fuel pump and fpr are something I'm going to need if I ever go turbo anyway..

I have it also.
Not installed yet, but it still looks so good!

What are you building this for?

I wouldn't go past your "Stage 2" upgrades for the brakes. Just get the right pads and you can do most anything with the AD22s. I have the 11" fastbrakes kit (with Wilwood calipers) and it is overkill. Look at what a lot of the roadracers are running, and the AD22s are good enough. The Wilwood calipers get into squeaking problems which are annoying.

Will GC camber plates fit with OEM-sized springs? And why are you going from Koni Reds to Yellows? Their dampening curves are very similar. Yes, you can externally adjust the yellows, but are you going to be going to the track enough to make use of that? I have yellows in front, reds in the rear. I set them to what Steve Foltz recommended and haven't touched them since. Too much adjustability can just make things confusing. Instead, I'd get a front progress sway bar and whiteline caster bushings.
Check out the STi muffler for your exhaust mods. Highly recommended!

I'd put the Koyo higher up in your stages. Our cars like to overheat! Don't forget to add some gauges to monitor your fluids!

I'd highly recommend the B15 trans with lightened flywheel before you go cryo-treating. The 6-speed was a goal of mine for a long time too, but the gear ratios on the B15 trans just made my car come alive. Get one, put it in and see how you like it before going for the expense and modification needed to put a 6-speed in. If you still want to change it, you could probably sell the B15 trans for as much as you bought it for.