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Mazworx QR 6spd swap kits

Thread: Mazworx QR 6spd swap kits

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Posts: 191-200 of 211
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2010-06-22 19:05:10
#191
Quoting good info
Originally Posted by Cliff
This damn tranny is YUMMY! EXACTLY what I want!!!! At highway speeds, in 6th gear, you're cruising at around 2krpm!!!!! DELICIOUS!


^

Originally Posted by mazworxsales
Here are some videos of the 6spd swap in a SR16VE engine/car.

YouTube - Mazworx QR 6spd conversion.MPG

YouTube - Mazworx QR 6spd conversion shifter.MPG

YouTube - Mazworx QR 6spd conversion burnout.MPG


^How is this car doing?

Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
- This is making me want to change things! *voices keep telling me 5th gear is so last summer *


^Pow!

Originally Posted by mazworxsales
Kits are now available !



Click on link below to order!

Mazworx QR 6 speed conversion kit (P12 Bellhousing)


^Yummy,

Originally Posted by mazworxsales
Here is a few:






^Very nice

Originally Posted by zer099
From the FSM:

2002
1st = 3.416
2nd = 1.944
3rd = 1.258
4th = 0.947
5th = 0.772
6th = 0.630
Final = 4.428

2003
1st = 3.153
2nd = 1.944
3rd = 1.392
4th = 1.055
5th = 0.809
6th = 0.673
Final = 4.133

2004+
1st = 3.153
2nd = 1.944
3rd = 1.392
4th = 1.055
5th = 0.809
6th = 0.630
Final = 4.133

The '03+ are good for turbo. Issue with the '03 inparticular is that its 6th is not as long, but it's nothing huge. Incidentally I have a 03 spec v tranny if someone wants it.

You can identify the tranny by the number on the plate. The 10th digit is the year. So for example, the ’03 I have is: 3N1AB51D43L727746. You can see it’s an ’03 tranny because of the “3” in the 10th digit.

EDIT: Thought I would add the B15/P11 ratios as well (again, from the FSM):
1st = 3.333
2nd = 1.955
3rd = 1.286
4th = 0.926
5th = 0.733
Final = 4.437

-> Gear Ratio Calculator
Above is a good link to look at and compare gearboxes. I love it, personally.


^Very good info.

Originally Posted by zer099
I just redrilled the spec-v spindles for 4x100 and went with the brembo setup for the spec.


^Balla

Originally Posted by zer099
Here's my 2 cents from the swap that I noticed when I did this last year:

With the dual mass fly it leaves very little room between the fly surface and the back of the internal bellhousing.

As long as you fly+PP setup equals around 96mm you should be fine. I say this because my shaved fly+z33 PP setup is 96.63mm thick and with the stock spec V TB it works perfectly.



I never measured how far the input shaft went into the clutch but it was pretty far in it, so I don't think that would be an issue.

For the record I am using a S15 dual mass fly that's shaved down 0.125 inches, a full z33 PP and clutch setup, Spec V throwout bearing, and the stock spacer plate (between tranny and engine).


^Nice.

Originally Posted by Himura-Kenshin
any word on the turbo flywheel and clutch set up for mazworxs? thanks


^x 2. And do you all carry replacement friction disc/plates for the QR 6spd conversion flywheel SKU: SN02A-3 215mm flywheel?
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2010-06-22 19:38:49
#192
I was the first person to shave down one of the JWT S15 flywheels about 3 years ago, I am not sure how ended up with it when I sold it.

The problem with the JWT 250mm S15 flywheel with the 20V bellhousing is that it still touches the inside of the trans bu the starter.

If we can get a 225mm made just as stock there will be no machine work.
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2010-06-23 03:42:41
#193
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Oh i can see what your saying about someone damaging their motor. You dont here is the thing with the timing. Its not hard and its pretty straight forward. You dont have to put the links back to where they belong. You can put the crank at TDC assuming your pulley is in good condition and showing correct timing and put your exhaust cam with the dowel pin pointing straight up at the 12 oclock position (this is very noticable if its even one tooth off) and then count 20 pins over from your dot on the exhaust cam gear and set your intake cam.

To make sure rotate the motor over after installing and releasing the tensioner, two revolutions and double check that everything comes back into line. Again absolutely noticable if even one tooth off on the gears. count your pins and make sure your exhaust dowel is straight up. If its even looks slightly off then it probably is so redo it until it lines up. Again i did this for Bahamas over the phone and told him if you have any doubts then its probably off. But he contacted me back saying it all looked great and which it was.

Even IF he had one cam off one tooth it would not damage his motor, It would run like crap especially since your exhaust cam would be the main one off and timing would be all out of wack.

Ive done this soo many times and never mark my chain. DE, DET's, VE's, doesnt matter. Its all the same.

Again i see what your saying about not wanting to risk someone blaming you for a motor going bad but in the case of timing the motor there is not a big chance of someone screwing up with those directions unless they are just stupid. Again not something that is your fault. He simply asked if it could be done any other way and i told him yes and walked him through.

He just told me that you and a couple others said there is no way for it to be done without taking the cover off. Which is false.

Im done.

dre installed my cam didnt even mark anything the car ran fine. if u dont know wat you are doing just take to someone who does i have been dealing with dre about 4years my boy mando bought an engine swap from him still runs till this day and dre is always willing to help and never gave miss information to use. if u take a car to a local shop they would make u sign a waiver that if some happen to the car/engine it is not there responsibility. when i had dre install my N1 cams i said dre what if i drop a valve he told me he would replace my whole motor he didnt have to he could of said it not my responsibility if the cam was installed right then the valve took a ****
it is simple this is a business for him he is nice to share information so u guys dont have to go to hell with your swaps some people would charge for there knowledge and never release info for this reasons. people always wants to rush doing thing SIMPLE AS DRE SAID TO ME DO IT THE RIGHT WAY ONCE IT WILL TAKE A LIL LONGER AND DONT HAVE TO BOTHER TO GO BACK TO IT LATER
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2010-07-06 20:54:22
#194
The issues with the flywheel and clutch have been solved. This clutch kit and flywheel we offer will work with the right components that we will also provide.

Thanks
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2010-07-08 06:03:27
#195
Originally Posted by mazworxsales
The issues with the flywheel and clutch have been solved. This clutch kit and flywheel we offer will work with the right components that we will also provide.

Thanks

Where is the clutch kit? I only see the flywheel on the website
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2010-07-08 18:10:44
#196
Originally Posted by mazworxsales
The issues with the flywheel and clutch have been solved. This clutch kit and flywheel we offer will work with the right components that we will also provide.

Thanks


Does the bellhousing need to be cut for your flywheel to fit?
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2010-07-08 21:23:17
#197
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
Does the bellhousing need to be cut for your flywheel to fit?


Nope
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2010-07-08 21:55:38
#198
Originally Posted by curtdragon
Where is the clutch kit? I only see the flywheel on the website

? Clutch kit?
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2010-08-16 22:24:42
#199
fuckin bump!!!!!
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2010-10-08 01:38:45
#200
There seems to be a lot of confusion with the clutch/flywheel combo that we need with this kit. For those of us using OBD2, does the flywheel have the same number of teeth on the ring gear as the OBD2 flywheel?

The trans bellhousing will fit a crank position sensor with a simple drilling procedure.?

The clutch offered is an off the shelf part for simplicity reasons? If I can get an overseas flywheel, an S14 clutch, and this bellhousing, I should have no issues with OBD2?

Please help answer my questions. I have money ready to spend, I just want to know what I need to do to keep this car street legal. That means the OBD2 has to work.
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