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Thread: GTi-R X-Trail SR20VET Setup and Advice

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Posts: 1-7 of 7
2017-04-04 23:25:06
#1
GTi-R X-Trail SR20VET Setup and Advice
It has been quite some time since I have been on the forums, I am from Trinidad in the Caribbean and have acquired a GTi-R just over 2 years ago and only now getting around to working on it.

I bought an X-trail SR20VET and the plan is to try and keep things simple with a goal of 450HP. I want a responsive vehicle for road fun and some local circuiting as well. Here are my plans and any advice in terms of matching stuff I am open to.

Stock SR20VET
GTX3071R
Sidewinder Manifold
Tial External Wastegate
Tial BOV
ID 1000cc injectors
Xcessive Intake Manifold
GTi-R Gearbox with Stracher inner bellhousing and Stracher outer bellhousing Brace
OS Giken Race twin disc clutch R2CD
PAR Gearset (not purchased yet)

I am planning on some other things to have it hopefully under good measure,
Defi gauges
Mezziere water pump?
Mazworx Waterpump blockoff plate?
Koyo Radiator
Oil Cooler
Power Steering Cooler
Tein Coilovers
Skyline front and rear brake conversion
5-lug conversion
3" Custom Exhaust
AEM Infinity
Cusco Rollcage
Swirl tank with Bosch External and stock internal Pump
Short Throw Shifter

Do you think I should upgrade anything in the head, like springs, valves and guides and cams? Should i also worry about the stock headgasket and is the entire setup solid enough for circuiting and dailying?

Let me also know what you would do differently.
2017-04-06 22:19:15
#2
I say if you can keep things mechanical such as the water pump then do it (OEM), Upgrade the pulleys & run Water Wetter with distilled water all year since you're in Trinidad. With those power levels I would do ARP headstuds, metal gasket & upgrade the valvetrain. Is E85 easy to attain out there ? if so that'll help keep things cool as well
2017-05-27 20:24:48
#3
I wouldn't bother with the gearset for 450hp the str braces are known to support 600hp easily on the stock gearbox....from my experience with some 85 140 gear oil and the car under 450 ft/lb the gearbox is cool.... this is my budget minded perspective ...if you don't have a budget then that is another story.
2017-05-29 23:01:38
#4
Originally Posted by TriniGT
Do you think I should upgrade anything in the head, like springs, valves and guides and cams?
I wouldn't touch that stuff. 450HP should be plenty easy without getting into the engine any.

Originally Posted by TriniGT
Should i also worry about the stock headgasket and is the entire setup solid enough for circuiting and dailying?
Technically you could be okay with the stock head gasket. Personally I would just run it until it proves to be a problem. To be super safe though, replace it with Cosworth (or APEXi as second option) or keep the torque low and make power with revs and give the head gasket a break (see below). Daily driving will be fine. And with the radiator and oil cooler you plan on adding, it should be good for circuit work too provided all is in order.

Originally Posted by TriniGT
Let me also know what you would do differently.
Personally I would avoid all of the transmission work, expensive gear-set, and unfriendly clutch by keeping it below ~275 TQ. That should still give you close to 350HP and make the car plenty awesome. I would start there with a stock transmission and simple clutch/PP setup. Then if you feel the need for more power, go with higher revs, maybe cams, some progressive boost and make your 450 HP while keeping it below ~275 TQ.
Down the line if you're still not happy, then spend the money on the gearbox stuff?

I don't think you'll need the power steering cooler?

I don't like aftermarket gauges, so I don't use any. What's the point? If you're tuning, you have the laptop to tell you everything. If you're not tuning and the setup is solid, then RPM and fuel level is all you need and you have those factory. (Okay, water temp is nice too, and is also factory. Oil temp is a luxury, but not needed. Air/fuel ratio is just silly, as you'll never watch it enough to make it useful when you need it. And boost gauges are the most pointless things going.)

I've read the replies now, and I agree you should keep the water pump mechanical (but make sure to under-drive it with a bigger pulley).
Last edited by BenFenner on 2017-05-29 at 23-18-08.
2017-06-02 07:01:57
#5
@BenFenner My wideband gauge has saved my ass a few times, I always keep an eye on my gauges because I don't have a laptop in the car at all times and better safe than sorry
2017-06-02 11:36:02
#6
I don't understand. Aren't your eyes on the road during heavy throttle events? Or how do you mean it saved you?
Last edited by BenFenner on 2017-06-02 at 12-01-31.
2017-06-02 14:54:40
#7
Once I had developed an oil leak that I didn't catch and the oil press gauge was fluctuating and reading low so I caught it in time, the factory dummy light is more like a you're already fucked light..

Boost gauge stopped me from continuing a pull one time when my wg line was ripped which caused me to run all the boost which I wasn't tuned for..

Wideband has kept me off the throttle on multiple occasions, sometimes something happens with the tune an shit changes, looked over an saw that was lean so I backed off, this was mostly in the early nismotronic days.. also had a failing fuel pump one time..


Eyes on the road yes, but I do look over.. my gauges are where my radio would be and my wideband screen has big blue numbers easy to read

Also the factory temp gauge sucks
Last edited by lynchfourtwenty on 2017-06-02 at 14-56-09.
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