Thread: B14 rear trailing arm movement?

Don't get me wrong, I don't like the SRL setup at all. But with the right spring rates and swaybars, it's not all that bad. Mike K and Joe from 2JR, all have won races and even set records on an SRL... The main issue I have with the SRL is, I refuse to run stiff rear springs on a daily car (P11), thus it sucks a ton.

Oh look, they loved setting records so much with them, they threw them in the trash.

Dog II car: The Dog II

Joe's B15: All B15 Models 2JRacing Panhard Rod

honestly idk how much over stock i lowered it. the front and rear fenders are 24in off the ground. thats as low as i could get it on 16x8 +10 with 225-45 tires without scraping around hard corners, even rolled the fenders a little. its on megan racing coilovers with 8k springs in the back and the dampening set all the way stiff along with the whiteline 20mm sway bar to try and counteract that high roll center, but maybe thats not enough.

2.34" in the front and 1.59" in the rear below stock. If you want it to handle/ride with any sort of grace, I'd raise that sucker a good inch all the way around. Let the stance guys laugh until the first turn.

You don't have to tell me, I'm not a fan of the SRL. I'm just saying that if done right it can still be fast. You just need some stiff springs to limit the travel of the rear.

The real issue with the beamed cars is the high roll center and very low roll center up front. Which means your roll couple is very small in the rear and very long up front, which means the front has a bigger lever to roll the car in turns. If you can fight yourself and keep just about stock ride height front and back + stiff springs, car should handle fairly good.

haha i might raise it if i start autocross again before i can afford that panhard rod. i already talked with 2JR a long time ago about shipping it to me to install myself. kinda weird that i didnt notice the flex before i bent the beam. could be that the tires were toed in a 1/4 in so when i took fast corners it flexed it close to zero, now that its at zero already its flexing beyond it

FYI, When I had my beam "bent" by 2J, he told me he wasn't going to sell the panhard as a DIY due to the complexity of the install. It's more than welding in a few chunks of metal and a rod. The geometry has to be just so, as well as, realigning and tweaky the beam back in shape, after the welding process.

Yeah he normally doesn't ship it out but after talking to him about how I altered his bushings to fit my b14 he said if I'm handy enough I could probably do it with instructions

This could be the case I did notice the beam flex quite a bit with not much force. This is why I'm against jacking the car up by the beam, the body weight could actually bend the beam to have less camber. I bent my beam to 0 toe, took it autocrossing and didn't feel the flex you are talking about.

Perhaps you can describe the issue more? What's going on when you start turning, mid turn, coming out of the turn?



If you can get it welded Why bother buying the kit, you can piece one together yourself for under $200. Check this thread out.

I'm currently working on a simple drop in panhard setup. I don't think I can avoid welding (not a problem for me), but I do want something that others can piece together themselves without much work.

Did you mechanically bend the beam or did you heat shrink it?