Thread: Beam Bending

From what I understood it costs $370 to do 0 toe and negative camber increase, or $350 to do just toe correction. Not both if you choose negative camber and 0 toe.

It is a better deal to go panhard, then 0 toe is only $70. But that's another animal of it's own.

Yup, that's what I said. Basically, its only an extra $20 if you want add negative camber on top of the 0 toe. I've talked to a few people and it sounds like all I need (should) to do is the 0 toe. Both the Panhard and negative camber would be fine if I was tracking the car all the time, but might be a bit much for a daily driver. I'll probably just stick with that plan. I might add a little bit of negative camber (only -1/2 degree), but I'll talk to Joe about it first.

I gotcha, Check how much neg camber your rear beam has at first. If it's under 1.5 then definitely add some, I wouldn't go over 2* for street use.

Cool! Thanks for the advice!

So what is the recommendation for street only use? Are there any considerations with rear sway bar selection?

My B14 setup so far - CSK / RM / camber plates, ES bushings (except for the rear), 3pt FSTB, 2pt RSTB, FLTB, and 205/50/15 BFG Rivals.

Beam bent, 0 toe, that's it. For street use only, I'm not sure if you would even notice the beam being bent. As for the rear sway bar, I have a Stillen, but I'm not sure if you can get that one anymore. The Progress bar looks nice also, and you don't loose the ability to use the beam as a jacking point.

Agreed, for street use going with a smaller front swaybar (or softer bushings for end links), will benefit you just as much imo. My P11 oversteers plenty once I went back to stock front end link bushings and stiffened up the rear plenty.

As for rear swaybars, B14 guys go straight to Whiteline, P11 is stuck with Maxima Addco, B15 has 2JR (same as Nismo) or Whiteline. I am tempted to try the Nismo swaybar on my P11, since Addco is not stiff enough and Whiteline one didn't fit too well (3" exhaust is in the way).

@Vadim, I sincerely doubt you are experiencing true oversteer in your P11. You are inducing it through some kind of input or the road is making it happen. Physics > feelings.
@eric96ser, You are not supposed to use the beam as a jacking point but use the SRL link location as a jacking point for the rear of the beam based Nissans. Also, Progress stopped producing the B14 rear bar.

I've been using the rear beam since day 1 to jack the rear up. Now that I have a Stillen bar and it goes right under the beam, I have to pick each side up separate.

If Progress quit making the bar, then either Stillen, if they still make it, or Whiteline is the way to go.

Since the Stillen bar is in the way, try using the SRL as your main lift location so you don't have to do one side at time anymore