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Thread: B13 CSK Research Thread - OE diameter springs

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Posts: 111-120 of 126
2012-01-13 21:33:53
#111
Originally Posted by vqman
i can spare the housings, but I'm not that skilled with an angle grinder to avoid not going to deep and nicking the koni insert..

they need 100 orders to make a new strut.

I think we should get some of the vendors together to order 100 rear B13 externally adjustable struts.. maybe G-Spec and Jimi can order 75 and 25.. or even Summit Racing could order 50 and G-Spec 25 and .. i'm just dreaming..


Assuming that the jbweld is only at the top and bottom of the strut and they didn't do something really perverted like coat the whole length... You might well be able to score through the stuff around the top with a knife. It's hard to tell how bad the stuff is at the bottom from the pic, but you might be able to use a chisel to break up the worst of it, then clamp the top of the insert (not the shaft) in a padded vice, and apply enough torque to the housing to break the JB Weld loose. You could bolt something to the strut ears to get enough leverage.

I really wonder if the right person at Bilstein was reached, if they wouldn't have something appropriate to replace the discontinued Konis with.
2012-01-13 21:37:40
#112
Originally Posted by Vector
Assuming that the jbweld is only at the top and bottom of the strut and they didn't do something really perverted like coat the whole length... You might well be able to score through the stuff around the top with a knife. It's hard to tell how bad the stuff is at the bottom from the pic, but you might be able to use a chisel to break up the worst of it, then clamp the top of the insert (not the shaft) in a padded vice, and apply enough torque to the housing to break the JB Weld loose. You could bolt something to the strut ears to get enough leverage.

I really wonder if the right person at Koni was reached, if they wouldn't have something appropriate to replace the discontinued Konis with.


I may try to chip away at my blown fronts to expirement.. and when I perfect it, chip away at the blown rear struts. i hit the button to talk directly to the rebuilding group. They can rebuild my discontinued strut inserts, but only if I send them in without the strut housings JB welded.. which maybe I can get it loose.. we'll see.. I will screw around with them this weekend.
2012-01-13 21:40:30
#113
No, I really did mean Bilstein. They seem to be much easier to work with on custom stuff from experiences other have had.
2012-01-13 22:23:05
#114
Originally Posted by Vector
No, I really did mean Bilstein. They seem to be much easier to work with on custom stuff from experiences other have had.


ah, well to my knowledge, that was the first time Bilstein has been brought up in any CSK conversation. Do they make inserts for B13's? if so, how do they compare to Koni's? (koni is regarded as on of the best strut manufacturers in our price range...
2012-01-13 23:19:02
#115
Originally Posted by vqman
you'd definitely need a spacer, and not 100% sure on "splicing" in more strut housing length on top... i think if you just use a rear housing you'd be better off. and they do fit.


from my measurements the b15 yellow sports need to be spaced up about 1.8 inches in the rear housings.

Originally Posted by vqman



in other news..
DO NOT USE JB WELD!!
I won't be able to have my blown koni's rebuilt unless I can get them out of the strut housing myself. I called the Koni rebuilders and they said they don't want any part of pulling the insert out of a strut housing that has been JB Welded into place... I don't know how I'm going to get them out.. and it's going to cost about $300 per strut to revalve and make them externally adjustable, IF i can get them out of the strut housings.. (this is the blown set that I bought used on the forum in 2010.)


woahhhh, I thought the inserts did not have to be removed from the housing to be rebuilt? This is some shitty news....

I bet I could cut them out with an angle grinder but it would not be fun at all.
2012-01-14 00:32:01
#116
Thanks vq, thats most likely what Ill end up doing..

Yeah, I always wondered about the JB Weld and how it would affect the ability to replace a blown insert if necessary...anyone came up with any other method of adding extra support to the shortened insert?
2012-01-14 00:47:54
#117
Originally Posted by Will
from my measurements the b15 yellow sports need to be spaced up about 1.8 inches in the rear housings.



woahhhh, I thought the inserts did not have to be removed from the housing to be rebuilt? This is some shitty news....

I bet I could cut them out with an angle grinder but it would not be fun at all.


i thought you could send them in the housings, and they'd remove them for you to rebuild, and reinstall .. for a little extra price and extra weight in shipping.. but the guy today almost seemed like he was in a bad mood.. LoL

probably tired of people calling in and talking about rebuilding instead of paying to have it done.
2012-01-14 00:49:15
#118
Originally Posted by kahlistrophic
Thanks vq, thats most likely what Ill end up doing..

Yeah, I always wondered about the JB Weld and how it would affect the ability to replace a blown insert if necessary...anyone came up with any other method of adding extra support to the shortened insert?


I say nix the JB Weld.. adhere to the torque spec on the bottom-side bolt and all should be good to go. the fit is fairly tight, I don't see them coming out. Koni does not say anything about using JB Weld in their instructions.
2012-01-14 02:59:38
#119
^ that response i gave you has nothing to do with your question...

what do you mean about adding suppprt to the shortened strut?
2012-01-14 05:16:52
#120
Originally Posted by vqman
^ that response i gave you has nothing to do with your question...

what do you mean about adding suppprt to the shortened strut?


Well, from what Ive been reading the JB Weld not only holds the strut in place, but also supports the shortened insert (nub cut off) inside the shortened housing ( i.e shortened strut). Since there are threads removed from the nub of the insert and screw, there is less effectove holding area/force from the nut. So the JB weld adds a bit more support when placed at the bottom. And by placing it at the top, its to prevent the chance of cracking the housing by not allowing the insert to move.

Thats what I had understood, anyone can correct me if Im wrong..
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