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Thread: Strut mount bolts too short....solution?

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Posts: 61-70 of 72
2009-01-17 23:28:44
#61
Originally Posted by hammerin
Shawn, is it possible to tap the mount from the other side so the bolt goes in lefty tighty, righty loosey...that way, the nut, when tightened (lefty loosey, righty tighty), won't loosen the bolt....ie. no JB required...follow me?

Just thinkin' out loud, here....

Hell if I know.

I *believe* that Mike considered that, and discarded it. Because whether tightening or loosening, in one direction or another, you are always going to be backing the screw out of the mount.

I have no idea if his "mental calculations" were correct or not. Nor did I second guess him.

Therefore, we did it as we did, and then JB Weld'ed the screws into place.

Can you confirm if doing the threads...uh...backwards would prevent the new screw from backing out of the plate? Whether installing or uninstalling the lock nuts from the top.

Great idea Hank, I just cannot put that one together in my brain. What turns in what direction, while tightening or untightening the locknuts. Especially if you start talking to me about reversing the threads or something.

Let me know, if the JB Weld is unnecessary, no harm done on my mounts.

However, your suggestion might make this "How To" even easier for other folks.
2009-01-18 00:00:05
#62
I am wondering about what you will do if you damage the threads on a bolt and need to replace it. JB Weld will make it a bitch to remove. IMO. I would use lock washers on the bottom of the bolt and the top. The 2 washers would act against each other preventing any loosening. Carriage bolts are also another option. They have a square protusion from the bolt head that acts much like knurls to but are much easier to find. You should also consider getting some nylon lock washers. They work great.
2009-01-18 11:17:40
#63
Originally Posted by TheRealNighthog
I am wondering about what you will do if you damage the threads on a bolt and need to replace it.

I've owned the vehicle since new. I have never damaged the OEM studs.

I have never seen anyone on either forum complain about broken or damaged strut mount studs.

I would assert that the new hardware is vastly superior to the OEM stuff. Assuming the OEM stuff is even grade-8, the new hardware is grade-8 and is way, way bigger. Hence even less susceptible to damage.

If on the remote possibility that I somehow manage to damage a stud, then I would just buy a pre-owned strut mount. Or call Greg V and get a new one. How hard would it be?

Originally Posted by TheRealNighthog
JB Weld will make it a bitch to remove. IMO.

"Bitch" is rather understating the effects of the JB Weld. I think the word you are looking for is "impossible" to remove. That was the entire point of the JB Weld. To make it impossible to budge those new screws.

Originally Posted by TheRealNighthog
I would use lock washers on the bottom of the bolt and the top. The 2 washers would act against each other preventing any loosening.

So are you suggesting.....

Thread the plate.

Then put a lock washer on the screw. Screw the screw into the plate, put on another lock washer and then the nut? Is that correct?

Would that lockwashers prevent you from having the bolt just spin around during maintenence? Ie...When undoing the suspension and loosening the three (3) strut mount nuts from the top?

Originally Posted by TheRealNighthog
Carriage bolts are also another option. They have a square protusion from the bolt head that acts much like knurls to but are much easier to find.

I looked at carriage bolts as a possibility, but I have no idea how you would get the squared-off shank, just below the cap, to bite or even fit into a round hole. That makes no sense to me, I cannot picture that working in my mind.

Originally Posted by TheRealNighthog
You should also consider getting some nylon lock washers. They work great.

Why would I need them? I have already affixed the head of the screw permanently to the strut mount. The locking nuts I purchased are....locking nuts.

Why would I need the redundancy of nylon lock washers? That would be extreme overkill, on top of my already extreme overkill (yet simple) engineering.

Good discussion. Keep in mind gentlemen, my questions to your questions are simply because I have no clue.

If there are other ways to engineer this fix, make it even more simple, and just as effective, that would be terrific. But you would have to spell it out for me...slowly and deliberately.
2009-01-18 19:18:32
#64
Originally Posted by Shawn
Hell if I know.

I *believe* that Mike considered that, and discarded it. Because whether tightening or loosening, in one direction or another, you are always going to be backing the screw out of the mount.

I have no idea if his "mental calculations" were correct or not. Nor did I second guess him.

Therefore, we did it as we did, and then JB Weld'ed the screws into place.

Can you confirm if doing the threads...uh...backwards would prevent the new screw from backing out of the plate? Whether installing or uninstalling the lock nuts from the top.

Great idea Hank, I just cannot put that one together in my brain. What turns in what direction, while tightening or untightening the locknuts. Especially if you start talking to me about reversing the threads or something.

Let me know, if the JB Weld is unnecessary, no harm done on my mounts.

However, your suggestion might make this "How To" even easier for other folks.


Now that I think harder on it, the bolt would need to be reversed threaded...which would defeat the purpose....oh well. Nevermind, JB Weld it is...
2009-01-18 23:59:20
#65
Originally Posted by hammerin
Now that I think harder on it, the bolt would need to be reversed threaded...which would defeat the purpose....oh well. Nevermind, JB Weld it is...

Thank you. Made you answer your own question. ...

I cannot "spatially visualize" what you asked.

I got "righty tighty, lefty loosey." Beyond that, I am lost.

I just went with Mike.
2010-01-06 02:34:50
#66
dang it, been reading for an hour..

my strut mount studs seem too short for my new front strut brace. (and my rear one too) will the Tein pillowball mounts work with hypercoils and CSK's?

Are there any other alternatives besides remanufacturing my strut mount like Shawn did?? seems like a lot of work for a longer stud/bolt...
2010-01-06 17:29:49
#67
Originally Posted by vqman
dang it, been reading for an hour..

my strut mount studs seem too short for my new front strut brace. (and my rear one too) will the Tein pillowball mounts work with hypercoils and CSK's?

Are there any other alternatives besides remanufacturing my strut mount like Shawn did?? seems like a lot of work for a longer stud/bolt...

IF you were going to remove all four struts/springs just so you could fix your strut mounts like I did, then yes it would be some work.

IF you already have your four strut/springs out of the vehicle, like when changing out your suspension, then the extra work is minimal. It will take you a bit longer because you will have to wait for the JB Weld to dry.

Otherwise the actual work on the OEM strut mount is relatively simple and easy. Place in clamp, thread the holes, JB Weld applied, screw it together, let it dry. Reassemble your suspension.

I'm confident that I could do the entire job myself, with no help, now that I have seen it done (helped, took pictures, documented, etc...). And I may be the worst wrench on this entire forum.

On the other hand, I *believe* the Tien pillowball mounts have longer studs to begin with. Most of the aftermarket mounts (Cusco/Stillen, and GC) apparently come with longer studs.

My OEM-Strut Mount solution is for folks on a budget, they have no need for any (expensive) aftermarket mounts, and don't need "adjustability". I prefer that my suspension remain very, very, OEM-level-simple.
2010-01-06 17:49:33
#68
Originally Posted by vqman
dang it, been reading for an hour..

my strut mount studs seem too short for my new front strut brace. (and my rear one too) will the Tein pillowball mounts work with hypercoils and CSK's?

Are there any other alternatives besides remanufacturing my strut mount like Shawn did?? seems like a lot of work for a longer stud/bolt...


Tein pillowball mounts work with all coilovers using the smaller spring diameter. Cusco works with normal spring diameter.
2010-01-06 17:57:18
#69
Originally Posted by coach
Tein pillowball mounts work with all coilovers using the smaller spring diameter. Cusco works with normal spring diameter.

Aha.

I could ReSearch this question, but you probably know this off the top of your head.

Which aftermarket mounts (GC, Cusco/Stillen, Tien, O.E.M., etc...) work with coilovers and which ones work with standard (Nissan OEM replacement) springs like Hypercoils and Road Magnets?

That vital information is NOT in the Suspension Thread. A serious oversight on my part.

VQman got me thinking about it, I went and checked the Suspension Thread (no, I don't remember everything) and I have not addressed this question.

Please educate me, and yes, you will be quoted.

Shawn B
2010-01-06 21:28:52
#70
Originally Posted by Shawn
IF you were going to remove all four struts/springs just so you could fix your strut mounts like I did, then yes it would be some work.

IF you already have your four strut/springs out of the vehicle, like when changing out your suspension, then the extra work is minimal. It will take you a bit longer because you will have to wait for the JB Weld to dry.

Otherwise the actual work on the OEM strut mount is relatively simple and easy. Place in clamp, thread the holes, JB Weld applied, screw it together, let it dry. Reassemble your suspension.

I'm confident that I could do the entire job myself, with no help, now that I have seen it done (helped, took pictures, documented, etc...). And I may be the worst wrench on this entire forum.

On the other hand, I *believe* the Tien pillowball mounts have longer studs to begin with. Most of the aftermarket mounts (Cusco/Stillen, and GC) apparently come with longer studs.

My OEM-Strut Mount solution is for folks on a budget, they have no need for any (expensive) aftermarket mounts, and don't need "adjustability". I prefer that my suspension remain very, very, OEM-level-simple.


I am going to be pulling apart the whole suspension soon to put in the Hypercoils and CSK's, but I don't have the luxury of waiting 15 hours at my friends house who's garage I'll be using.. I'm on a time budget... lol

I have so much to do to my car that any little extra bit of work is more than I want to do.. if I can buy the part, I'll spend a few more dollars and save myself some time. This is my only car right now, I can't have it down for that long...

Originally Posted by coach
Tein pillowball mounts work with all coilovers using the smaller spring diameter. Cusco works with normal spring diameter.
good to know.. are the Cusco mounts the only ones that work with normal springs??



Originally Posted by Shawn
Aha.

I could ReSearch this question, but you probably know this off the top of your head.

Which aftermarket mounts (GC, Cusco/Stillen, Tien, O.E.M., etc...) work with coilovers and which ones work with standard (Nissan OEM replacement) springs like Hypercoils and Road Magnets?

That vital information is NOT in the Suspension Thread. A serious oversight on my part.

VQman got me thinking about it, I went and checked the Suspension Thread (no, I don't remember everything) and I have not addressed this question.

Please educate me, and yes, you will be quoted.

Shawn B

any day coach that you want to chime in.. we're still waiting!!

no seriously, can't wait to find out all of my options.
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