Thread: B13 with Progress rear sway, twitchy. Advice.

hehe

I have noticed the same problem. I have progress front and rear bars. Front and rear strut tower braces.

Jim what's going on??

That's easier said than done on finding a great shop for an alignment... especially in a new town... I've been in Tulsa all of 6 months now..

Find the local autocrossers. They will know who will do alignments to whatever specs you want. Search for your local regions website/forum if they have one. If not you might just have to wait until the season starts back up, go to an event and ask around.

cool, thanks for the advice!

Off topic, but if you decide to sell it, shoot me a pm.

Wow, thanks for all of the helpful replies.

I feel the idea that alignment could be the issue is a very likely attribute to the problem.I actually have the printout from right after I had installed my caster bushings in the front.

I worked at a dealership and a few of the guys said they would align it really fast for me.

Since my rear linkage was so rusted I decided to leave the rear alone.

Here was the readout:

Front:
Cross Camber: .21'
Cross Caster: 1.24'
Total Toe: .12'

FL
Camber:-0.48'
Caster:2.45'
Toe:.07'

FR:
Camber:-1.09'
Caster:1.21'
Toe:.05'

Rear:
Total Toe:.14'
Thrust Angle:.04'

RL
Camber:-.54'
Toe:.11'

RR
Camber:-.52'
Toe:.03'

I was initially confused why the caster is so far off between FR and FL, any idea? Also is .11 toe enough to make a noticeable difference on the street or make the car feel awkward in high speed turns?

I do not have much experience with an average alignment. I adjusted the toe to be as close to 0 as possible. Nothing else was adjusted.
Since then I have raised the rear suspension .5 of an inch that is all.

I was reading in an article dealing with a Toyota corolla, and they were having an issue with the rear wheel lifting and creating snap oversteer.

I have ordered an Octotat rear triangulation brace, I will be able to tell if this helps in highspeed corners or not.

I also reset my front dampers (koni yellows) to one turn (out of two) and the car feels allot better in general, however I have not really tested it out yet.

Dudeman

.5" in ride height will def add noticeable camber.

I didn't notice it until my instructor at the event pointed it out. I had also just raised my rear coilovers at the time.

So by raising it you think I have dialed out my negative camber? I figured having my rear control arms slightly past parallel when not loaded would be most affective so under compression they are nearly level.

Am I wrong in assuming that when the arms are parellel to the ground that static camber is the largest?


Edit: Anyone who has dealt with alignments before...wth is up with my caster?

Dudeman

Yes you are wrong. Static camber is largest at full compression (parallel links pointing to the sky).