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Thread: Dissapointing dyno

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Posts: 31-39 of 39
2009-02-26 20:08:33
#31
Didn't get SR20 NX's, only GA16's, N14 SR20 sunnys are quite rare now as the rust has killed them all and people don't strip them...they just scrap them, P10 highports are rare only the eGT and eZX had the highport iirc and they never sold many.
2009-02-26 21:58:13
#32
Oh thats bad. We have a lot of all these cars here.

Anyway.. whats next plan to this build?
2009-02-27 17:11:36
#33
The car needs alot of work like rear calipers, brake lines, wishbone, rust etc...so Im gonna get the car back road worthy and keep it going for the next 12 months....then im gonna bring another VZR over and I'd love to do a 16VE on R1 carbs, standalone, N1's etc...keeping it a 1600. I would love that.
2009-03-01 00:22:52
#34
Originally Posted by HJBarker
My first build was off by one tooth - ran smoothly, idled just fine, but was down on power/wtq, especially on the low end. Retiming the engine netted much better economy, and about 9whp / 11wtq

Setup: DE, S4, Hotshot G5, 3" exh., K&N panel filter.


wia tso if the timing chain is off a tooth, it will be ok but down on power.....hmmmm
2009-03-01 00:27:27
#35
Originally Posted by Andreas
That picture tells nothing in my opinion.

What you need to do is take out the spark plugs and rotate the motor via the crank untill you can get the 2 dark links from the chain over your cam sproket timing dots.

This means the two dark links will be over the 2 cam sproket timing dots. The exhasut cam will be at 12oclock via the cam sproket key and when you look down at the crank pully the timing marker will be over the 0 mark.

This is what needs to be done to show if the motor is truely on timing.


damn now you make me thin that im off a tooth now......**** cuz it pulls good over 5k but down low on my hioprt de its really low on power feeling..

ANDREAS, do you tinhk im off a tooth?
so heres another before and after pic
with the stock cams, tdc, at 10 n 12
[img][IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s71/ordepg/IMG_1244.jpg[/img][/IMG]

and the new bc stage 2s, tdc, 10 n 12
[img][IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s71/ordepg/IMG_1248.jpg[/img][/IMG]


what do you think that looks pretty good to me.....


stock cams again.....
[img][IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s71/ordepg/IMG_1246.jpg[/img][/IMG]

bc stage 2s
[img][IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s71/ordepg/IMG_1249.jpg[/img][/IMG]

buy looking at kurts pics i think were good... the lobes all point the same ways....so what do you think kurt? if you pull th vc and find out please lemme know.

i think we did ok kurt .....but i couldn tell the timing marks on my crank pulley so thats why im worried about this.....i gues the only way to tel will be ona dyno...

Originally Posted by GTi
Ok, before I go to through the hassle of pulling the engine out...I did a quick check of the timing this is what the dowell pins look like when piston 1 is at TDC.



You can just make out number 1 on the cam sprockets...that's where the dowell pin is.


There at 10 o'clock and 12 o'clock....is it still best to do it properley with the engine out.?
2009-03-01 01:08:26
#36
when I dynoed my first SR20 I put down 120hp and 117lbft torque @7000rpm

it was a DE lowport with timing advanced 20 degrees ,intake, header, and stock size piping w/ a fart can. it was a lot faster than my GA16 just like that.
about a week later I put S4 cams in it. and it was ten times faster. I never got to dyno it w/cams because shortly after. it decided to seize up. oh well thats life.
2009-03-01 01:51:19
#37
from the look of the tq curve this car is going to make peak power in the 7800rpm range. hopefully if you can up the rev limiter you can see what it will peak
2009-03-01 01:57:14
#38
and no your timing is not wrong. you have 20 pins inbetween the marks. and long as there is no slack between the intake cam and the crank (and the crank is at tdc) your are on.
2009-03-01 02:12:18
#39
All I have to say is you guys are doing cam changes wrong.

These pics truely do not tell anyone anything.

Cam changes must be done properly and the JWT method of doing cam changes is incorrect. Please follow your Nissan service manually for details to this.

When changing cams on a SR20 motor you must always rotate the motor manually to mechanical TDC.

This means
1. Piston 1 at TDC
2. Crank pully will be marked at 0
3. both colored links on chain must be over dots on cam sprokets at the same time.


The above must be done to insure that you have done cam change properly. By doing so if any mistake is done by you it can be easily seen and fixed before moving on.

Never take out chain tensioner when rotating motor manually. The above must be done before unbolting anything.

So to do listed above you will remove valve cover then remove spark plugs to eliminate compression. Then rotate motor via pully to specs listed above.
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