Thread: It's Allliiiiiivvvveeeee!!!

Ok boys, as you know, I've been working on this highport swap into my b15. From what I know, this is the first time it's been done, and even Miko said he wouldnt touch the project with a 10 ft pole. That being said, I tackled the swap because money is incredibly tight right now. After getting it in, the freaking motor would start, rev to 5k, die. Then start, 600 rpm-500-600-500 chug chug, die.
After 3 days of diagnosis, spark, fuel, cap, rotor,distributor, timing, etc. I got pissed off, and took off a giant air hose to the engine, and started it. Sure enough, ran the same. That means there's a giant air leak somewhere. I took off ALL the hoses that had anything to do with letting more air into the intake manifold and plugged them. The car now runs continually at 1250rpm. It's a step in the right direction boys, she's running!!!!

At zero throttle, she still runs. That means there's an air leak large enough to allow the motor to run continually at 1250rpm. So that points to the manifold, and a leak therin.

I have one question: is there anyplace the motor can get air from and still run with zero throttle, and no air from any tube whatsoever? I put a pressure fitting on the throttle with it open, and put my compressor on there, and the air just ran and ran and ran, so there's a leak someplace. I've tried water and soap spraybottle thing, and to no avail.

Other than that, I'm pleased as pop to get this engine running!!!! YAYYY!

wasn't there someone who did a B15 to SR20DE on the old forum? maybe check there for some help. Congrats on the 1st step.

no, my b15 is already sr20de, but a RR motor with obd2 lowport.

I put in a 92 highport sr20de into it, swapped the sensors over, fandangled what needed to...it's been done where a highport was in a b14, and a VE into a b15 (sentra SE 01') but never a highport into a b15.

canx2k

Getting the car running and driving fine is not a problem.

When doing a car for a customer the most important part to me is when the car leaves there is no check engine lights and so on. One must deliver a quality product that looks good and function properly

I would never put a highport NA motor in a 00-01 equipped low port B15. You know have a motor that will not even funtion properly as far as RPMs goes. You are now stuck with a motor that fucntions properly betweem 6500-7500 RPMs and a rev limiter at 6800 RPMs.

I would do a Highport SR20DET Highport into a B15 as any turbo up to a GT2871R would complement the RPM band of that ECU.

I just dont see the need or the hassel for doing this setup by staying NA

Consider if you got a RR motor and put it in, it would have been a one day affair. Time is money and you have to ask yourself how many days have you been working on this and how many days will you working on this to get it to atleast run right.

You now end up with a car that has check engine lights all over the place, and a car that is hard to sell in the future. Saving a little now can cost you alot in the end.

Anyway the most probable reason for the car reving high is the cold start valve on the highpot motor not getting a signal as the B15 harness has no provision for this and you dont have it connected electrically. The B15 SR20DE motor runs a mechanical Cold Start Valve or Fast Idle.

What you are doing is not hard, it is just not practical.

Keep working at it.

Canx2k

A B14 OBD2 is a complete diffrent animal to a B15 OBD2.

There is no big deal to put a highport SR20DE or SR20DET motor in a B14. It is done all the time.

A B15 with a VE is nothing to difficult either, you just have not thought the hole thing through yet. A B15 with a VE is much more difficult than a B14 with a VE.

To get the car to run right and be void of CELs you will have to do extensive wiring which will include you having to put in a B14 harness and ECU and or using the B14 ECU and switching out the B15 ECU Plug for a B14 one.

Putting in a DE highport motor is not worth the hassel and time but you will soon see that.

lol i'd be suprised if it ever gets past 5k rpms, it's not for the track, it's for my little old lady driver of a wife. Not too worried about that much

not too worried about the time involved, I like this kind of stuff, and we have a DD and carpool together (wife and I) anyways so time isn't an issue.


If you are speaking about the air regulator valve on the highport that doesn't exist on the lowport, I shouldn't have an issue running that later if need as it's on the same wire system as the fuel pump (ie turning on with ignition, off when pump is off) and doesn't need more than that.

My question for you is though, why doesn't the lowport have one? Doesn't it need that to run properly, or is that accounted for with the iacv stepper motor the b15 has?

btw, that wasn't a stab at your ability AM, just wanted to show it's not a basic swap. Your ability was never called into question man, that's why I asked you all the q's that i have. BTW, can you answer my one last injector question in the thread 'injector impedance' because I'm stumped on that and don't want to rip it apart if I dont have to. (plus the question located above^)

And no cel yet, hopefully never will get one

Lets say you got a

91-93 B13 Highport motor $200

95-99 B14 Lowport motor for $300

00-02 B15-P11 lowport RR motor for $500

Which one would be the most cost effective to put in your car and get it running.

The B14 lowport would.

Why you ask.

You switch over the complete intake manifold form the B15 onto the B14 motor with all the sensors along with the heater piping. This would take you about 2 hours tops. Then drop motor in car and you are off to go, 2 day affair tops.

B13 motor rev limiter 7500
B14 motor rev limiter 7100
B15 motor rev limiter 6800


You said you put that motor in because you were on a budget so I just gave you the economics of it all.

Dont feel like explaining anymore, we are talking about diffrent things

The FAST IDLE is run from part of the ECU circut that is controlled VIA the reading from the head temp sensor, so if you start to wire it up via wires from the fuel pump well what can I say.

head temperature sensor - I dont see that in the fsm?

-engine coolant temperature sensor from the b15 is put in
-egr temperature sensor (which has nothing to do with the running of the engine)
-transmission temperature sensor
-fuel tank temperature sensor

I'm lost

a VE in a B15 is sooooo freakin easy. If I knew know of what it takes...I wouldve done it right after the warranty expired years ago.

There's no real rewiring of a ecu, you can cut the rev limit and add a piggyback ecu to save cash. So B14 ecu is DEFINITELY not needed. Stock ecu still works just fine.

Btw...congrats canx2k!