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  1. #1
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    Thumbs up How to install Cams and Springs and/or Retainers in the VE

    OK, here is a little write up after the install this past weekend. We learned a few things and clarified some things that we thought we knew.

    What you need for Cams only:
    10mm to remove valve cover nuts
    10mm and 12 mm to remove valve cap bolts
    24mm for cam bolts
    1" or something to possible turn the cam with. If no 1" wrench, then get a 1/4 extensions to block the cam gears from turning.
    Zip ties
    wooden chain block per JWT specs(click for picture) attach rope or zip tie to it help you pull it out.

    What you need additional to do springs and/or retainers:

    5mm Allen head socket
    10mm Allen head socket
    Lisle Tool pn# 36200 (click for image) Buy it HERE
    Compression tester with end to fit your air compressor
    air compressor
    heavy hammer
    skinny screwdriver


    To Change Cams:

    Remove spark plug wires.
    Mark/scratch distributor and housing next to it with a straight line so you can install distributor back in the exact spot.
    Remove distributor by removing 1 or 2 bolts. Have a rag ready under when you remove as it will drip some oil.
    Remove valve cover. There are 13 bolts all the way around including 1 longer one in the center.
    Turn crank until at Top Dead Center. Two thing will tell you this. 1. The pointer on the front cover will be lined up with the mark on the crank pulley (very easy with the G Spec pulley) and the Dowel Pin on the Exhaust Cam will be straight up at 12 o'clock
    Zip tie at least 2 zip ties on cam each gear and chain. Nice and tight so they won't come off.
    Place wooden chain block down inside between the gears between the chain. This keeps the tensioner still to.
    Put your 1/4" extension through one of the holes in the cam gear in a place where it will allow the least rotation as you loosen the cam gear bolt. Once it is loose it will turn out by hand.
    Once both gears are off and pushed aside, it's time to remove the cam caps. I do this in about 1/2 turn increments in a sort of pattern, but the trick is Slow and Steady wins the Race. Do NOT turn one all the way out and move to another. You might break the cams. Just go slow and turn a little at a time and move around.
    Once all the caps are out, set them aside in order. The cam is now ready to come out.
    Sometimes the cam will be tight and you just need to jiggle it a little and it will come out.

    When they are both out, you can move to springs and retainers step. If not read ahead.

    Re-installing Cams:
    Try to remember where the dowel pins were positioned when removing and re-install the cams as close as possible to the same position.
    Install cam caps by using the same cautious, turn each bolt a very little at a time method. Hand thread them until tight and then start 1/2 turn or so at a time. When the caps are down all the way, tighten sorta hand tight. Make sure it's tight but don't crank down on it.
    Get the gears lined up to dowels as best as you can. You can use a wrench to turn the cam to help, and if you need more slack you can turn the crank pulley a little too.
    When the gears are installed be sure to tighten the cam bolts pretty good.
    Cut off zip ties and reinstall valve cover.
    Re-install distributor, lining the scratch marks you made earlier up. Install the spark plug wires and fire it up.

    How to Change the Springs and Retainers:
    Once cams have been removed you will be looking at the rocker arms.



    You will see the 2 bolts necessary to remove to remove the rocker arm shaft. Above is the Exhaust Side, below is the Intake Side.



    Remove them with the 5mm Allen head. Be sure it is in deep or you might round it out.



    Locate the round plug where distributor mounts.



    Remove it with the 10mm Allen head.




    Remove it. Then remove the solenoids with housing. There are 2 nuts and 3or4 bolts. All 10mm. Shaft is removed once it is removed.



    Use the set bolt as a tool. insert it into the hole in the shaft and **** it a little to help you remove the shaft.



    Notice the large hole the set bolt went through and notice the small oil holes. When the set hole is up and down, the oil holes point in towards the spark plugs



    Remove each rocker arm as the shaft is removed and set aside in order.
    You will have to remove the battery to remove the exhaust shaft!

    You know are looking at only springs and retainers.



    remove spark plugs if not already done.
    remove each shim and be sure to place them in order so they may be reinstalled in exact order.
    Screw in compression tester with the end on it to fit your compressor. Be sure it does or you can't go any farther. Turn on compressor and attach it. This will air up the cylinders and prevent the valve from falling in. There will be some air leakage noise and the compressor will periodically kick on and off to keep the pressure.
    Grab you Lisle pn#36020. It has 2 main pieces: the Silver piece and the Darker piece. Using only the silver piece, place it on top of the retainer and give it a whack. Too soft and nothing happes, too hard and it's too hard. Just right and the retainer will be stuck to the end and the 2 keepers will be held inside by the magnet. Remove all four of the same cylinder in this manner.



    Replace all the springs with the new ones. Install retainers. The flatter side goes up.



    Install the keepers into the hole. Get them in evenly if possible. They are tapered and must go in the right way. Use the skinny screwdriver to get them in right.



    Add the dark piece inside the silver piece, place it on top and give it a good whack.



    It will push it down and set them perfect. If you don't succeed, you can always take out the dark piece, whack it to remove the keeper, and start over. When installed correctly it will look like this



    Once the cylinder is done, unplug the hose and unscrew the compression tool and go to another cylinder. Do all the same way. When finished, re-install shims EXACTLY in the order they were removed.Re-install the rocker arm shaft, and each rocker arm in order. Remember the set hole is up and down and the oil hole point into the center.



    Reinstall the set bolts. They need to be tight but not cranked down.

    Next step is important. Tap the rocker arms ontop the valves and shims several times, as hard as you can. You want to be sure the shims will not slip out. Very important step!

    Reinstall the cams per above and you should be good to go.

    Remember:
    If you let the chain off the gears, line up timing like so.
    1. Get the crank to Top Dead Center. The Exhaust cam dowel pin (not the dot on the gear) will be straight up at 12 o'clock.
    2. Remove the tensioner.
    3. dot on the exhaust gear will be in between the 2 pins on the outer link. The intake is the eleventh, counting the link the exhaust is on.
    4. Get the gears on correctly and re-install the tensioner.
    Last edited by GregV; 09-03-11 at 06:10 PM.
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  2. #2
    I <3 Boost!
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    Awesome thread, especially since my friend just ordered some BC stg.2's... Starting the new forum off right!
    Rest In Peace to my NX2000 :cry:

    I hope to have an AWD platform for my next Vehicle...

  3. #3
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    GregV! Way to go, proud to see you joined us!

    ... Just a thought, perhaps your advertising dollars could go further on sites OTHER than the previous one? - hint hint.

  4. #4
    Car out o order since '10
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    great thread, Im going to order some SR16 cams from ya pretty soon. This write up would help me!

  5. #5
    SR20DEviant
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    So do you tap the rocker arms with the hammer, or just a few wacks on the retainers themselves? Is there risk of damaging the rocker arms themselves?
    92 NX2000VE - N1 cams, BC S&Rs, Hot Shot intake w/ pop charger, SSAC, 2.5" exhaust, B15 trans w/ 2000 SE disc, ACT HD PP, TWM shifter, Cusco FSTB & Active Tuning RSTB, AGXs+RMs. 189WHP

    91 SE-R - My intro to the SR world :o - sold

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhorB13 View Post
    So do you tap the rocker arms with the hammer, or just a few wacks on the retainers themselves? Is there risk of damaging the rocker arms themselves?
    Huh? What are talking about taping rocker arms?

    The tool you hit pushes down on the retainers to let the keepers come off the valve stem.

    So no risk at all to rocker arms.
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  7. #7
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    right. When I mentioned tapping the roccker arms, thats just with your hands to make sure they gonna move freely.
    Greg V - G Spec Performance
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  8. #8
    instagram @dro_sr
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    greg did you use that wooden thing in between the cam gears? i didn see it in your pics............
    -pedro

    1993 nx2000 sr20VE
    1991 nx2000- PARTED OUT
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  9. #9
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    I did. Sorry I didn't add a picture. Next time i do it I will. It is less important on VEs because the chain will NOT drop off the crank gear like a DE. Though it is handy keeping the tensioner compressed as much as possible.
    Greg V - G Spec Performance
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  10. #10
    Engine Builder
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    Pictures don't work...
    Lance

    Contact me if you'd like to discuss having your engine rebuilt or if you want a custom built engine.

  11. #11
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    Quote Originally Posted by LukaMcCloud View Post
    Pictures don't work...
    Odd, I'm looking at all the pictures...
    Greg V - G Spec Performance
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  12. #12
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    They work fine for me hehe
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  13. #13
    I have an inventory!
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    they work.

  14. #14
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    So what psi should the air compressor be set at or just put it to like 100 psi?

  15. #15
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Sleeper View Post
    So what psi should the air compressor be set at or just put it to like 100 psi?
    Mine goes between 100-80 psi.
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  16. #16
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    They work now.
    Lance

    Contact me if you'd like to discuss having your engine rebuilt or if you want a custom built engine.

  17. #17
    VE Nebie
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    i've been going over this install tutorial numerous times, and I think I want to install camshafts on my own when I get some (probably N1s). Questions (will edit my post if/when I find answers):

    -What are the torque specs on the 12mm and 10mm bolts for the cam cap bolts?

    -What are the torque specs on the 5mm set bolts for the rocker arm/oil shafts?
    A: 6.9-8.8 N-m (5.1-6.5 ft-lb)

    -What are the torque specs on the 10mm allen plug for the oil shaft?
    A: 49-59 N-m (36-43.5 ft-lb)

    -Do you guys think a cheap, pancake style 3gal air compressor (ie the ones used for brad nailers) will be sufficient for airing up the cylinders? I don't have a compressor, and want to keep costs down on the install. no room at my place for anything bigger than a 3gal air compressor either.
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  18. #18
    The People's Mod
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    To prevent the valves from dropping into the cylinder you can feed a length of rope into the spark plug hole as well. It is much cheaper than an air compressor and more reliable.

  19. #19
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    Jeremy,
    What Ben says can also be done. Feed some rope into the cylinder and then rotate the crank to squish it in there. obviously leave some rope hanging out so you can get it all out. As to torque specs:
    Cam cap bolts: I use a 1/4 ratchet and get them tight. Do NOT crank the **** out of them.
    The 5mm same thing., the 10mm I get tighter using a 3/8 ratchet. But I never try to craqnk down too hard. It's always been right and I've never had a problem. I do tighten the cam cap bolts per nissans sequence.
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  20. #20
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    So I'm about to this, I'm want to be as cautious as possible so my question is which method of holding the valves it's the best, The rope or Air the cylinders with a compressor ???

    I'm thinking with air in the cylinder there is possibilities of the valve falling when you hit the retainers to release the keepers.
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  21. #21
    The People's Mod
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    It's possible for a valve to drop using the air pressure method if at any time the valves are not sealing properly which can happen if you press on the valve stem too hard (or if you just have terrible luck).
    The rope method is basically foolproof. Just make sure to get synthetic rope that doesn't tend to shed anything.

  22. #22
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    I've never had a valve drop doing it with air, and I only do it with air. It makes a God-awful noise if the valve is pushed down at all as the air escapes, but the valve never drops.
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  23. #23
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    I'll go with air. I'm getting a compressor at walmart.

    It does not matter what size compressor????, I think I'll go with a 3 Gal.
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  24. #24
    VE Nebie
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    thanks Greg and Ben. So when you feed the rope into the cylinder, you mean keep feeding rope through the spark plug hole until no more rope can fit in there? or can you just feed a bit of rope till it vertically goes past the valve poppets, which would then prevent the valves from falling in because the poppets would hit the rope before sliding in any further into the cylinder?
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  25. #25
    The People's Mod
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    You'll want to feed rope until the cylinder is full. You can feed a bit of rope in and then rotate the crank to press the rope up against the valves and head so you don't have to feed yards of rope in. Just lowering enough in to stop the valves from being able to move might work out okay but the sure method is to fill the cylinder.

  26. #26
    VE Nebie
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    ok that sounds all fine and dandy, but when you guys say to rotate the crank, wouldn't that be difficult with the wood block between the timing chain, and let's not forget the ziptied cam gears...?
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  27. #27
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    Yah don't ask me. I've never done it. Maybe you don't get to rotate the crank.

  28. #28
    1, 2, 3, 4, 5!!!
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    ohh dear, just recently when we were doing springs/retainers the valve dropped in cylinder 3 using the air method! After we picked our hearts up out of our stomachs, we had to pull the head. I honestly don't know how to turn the crank WITH the zipties on the gears and without cams. It would help to have each cylinder at TDC but how can you do this?
    __________SR20DEEP_______PHOENIX, AZ__________
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  29. #29
    VE Nebie
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    well i guess if a valve were to drop into a cylinder, it wouldn't be much more work to get the head off. the only thing to worry about at that point would be keeping the timing chain happy.
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by javcrodgz View Post
    ohh dear, just recently when we were doing springs/retainers the valve dropped in cylinder 3 using the air method!
    thats my fear, Did you had to get a new Headgasket after removing the head????
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  31. #31
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    wow I will use it to install my N1 Cams thanks
    NISSAN B13 NEO VVL

  32. #32
    VE Nebie
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    i bought the 32600 lisle tool and was practicing spring/removal and installation on my DE head yesterday. I noticed that removing the springs, retainers, and keepers is a piece of cake, but reinstalling the retainers and keepers on the valve are next to impossible. what's happening when i try to install the keepers on the valves is that only one of the 2 keepers installs properly--the other keeper barely slips onto the valve. the keeper that doesn't install properly sticks out so far, that i can't even put the shim back into the retainer. it seems like the black part on the installer part of the tool is too small, allowing for it to only push 1 keeper onto the valve. i'll take pics later, but all i gotta say is this tool is extremely annoying to use for valve keeper/retainer installation.
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  33. #33
    1, 2, 3, 4, 5!!!
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    ^your valves must not be completely up. Having them as far up as possible makes it a lot easier!
    __________SR20DEEP_______PHOENIX, AZ__________
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    "always strive for a decent level of accuracy, without it we'd all be driving sentras" - smart man

  34. #34
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    Jeremy, that will happen occaisionally. Sometimes you can put the tool back on and whack it. If it's too far off, you gotta reverse and start again.

    make sure the tool is lined op with the angle the valve is in at. that also makes a big difference.
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  35. #35
    VE Nebie
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    javcrodgz, the valves that i worked on were pretty much all the way up--the head is off the block, and i just put a towel underneath the poppets to keep them from moving, but i noticed that they still are moving maybe a few mm when i try to reinstall the keepers and retainer.

    greg, i figure i've tried over 30 times to reinstall the keepers properly, with no luck. i've tried both the hammer and push-on method. it seems the push-on method is the easier way (considering the head is out of the engine bay and i could easily put all my weight onto the tool/spring), but both keepers never want to go on all the way... i'm gonna try a valve spring compressor tool that i have later on today, to see if that works better for installation of the valve keepers and retainer. if i could just push the spring far down enough to where i can slip both keepers around the top of the valve, then all i'd have to do after that is let go of the spring tension until the spring pushes the retainer back over/around the valve keepers. i'm hoping the valve spring compressor that i have will allow me to do this. will let you guys know, thanks
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  36. #36
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    I forget I have a dead SR20DE laying in my backyard.

    Is it exactly the same procedure from the VE other than the rocker removal right????
    95' P10 Dark Green
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  37. #37
    VE Nebie
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    yeah pretty much, you take the cam caps and camshafts off, then the rocker arms are just sitting there loosely. take them out by hand, as well as the shims, and you're ready to remove/install springs/retainers
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  38. #38
    VE Nebie
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    hey guys, i gave it another shot today, with much better results. i first tried using a valve spring compressor that i had. what a pos, the thing actually came apart while i was using it. so i scrapped that and tried the 32600 tool again. And this time, I made sure that the valves could not move at all, by stuffing a microfiber towel underneath the valve/cylinder i was working on. The same thing was happening again--only one keeper slipped onto the valve, while the other went on only partially. so what i did was position the tool right on the keeper that stuck out, gave it a good whack, and it went on completely as well. I did this with success on 3 different valves, doing them over multiple times just for fun. as long as one keeper is in well, and one is partially on the valve, then no need to remove both keepers and install again--just place the 32600 tool on the keeper that's partially on, give it a good whack, and both keepers will be on the valve properly. awesome!

    the key, i noticed, is to prevent the valve from moving at all. the few mm of movement that the valves had yesterday when i was trying the 32600 tool out made it impossible to get the keepers on. but if the valve is completely shut and immobile, that gives the keepers just enough height to slip onto the valve stem up top, with the 32600 and a good whack of a hammer (i used a 3 lb drill hammer). i even got both keepers to slip onto the valve stem perfectly with just a single whack, a few times. again, the key is to prevent the valves from moving at all. makes me think the rope method of installing springs/retainers might not be the better solution after all, unless you have a really good valve spring compressor tool: one that can compress the spring to the point where you can slip the valve through the spring/retainers just enough for you to stick the keepers on the stem, after which you can release the spring tension on the compressor so that the retainer makes its way back up to surround the keepers.

    edit: if the keepers look like this, you can still place the 32600 tool on the keeper that's sticking out, and whack it down into place with the 32600 tool and hammer:



    Last edited by worldcrafter; 06-26-10 at 06:03 AM. Reason: forgot to add pics
    B13 VE Sentra in the Aloha state, resurrected from the dead

  39. #39
    I put the "G" in "OG"
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    Exactly right. Good job Jeremy. I guess my compressor that keeps between 80-100psi is sufficient for the job.
    Greg V - G Spec Performance
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  40. #40
    1, 2, 3, 4, 5!!!
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    BTW, the key is to make sure you have the tool straight! If you have it tilted just a little bit, you'll get the 1 keeper in/1 keeper out thing you're getting.
    __________SR20DEEP_______PHOENIX, AZ__________
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