Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    OEM Plus.
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Posts: 11,107
    Feedback Score: 51 (100%)

    Default HOW TO: Check camshaft timing



    KEY:
    White dots = The small dimples on the cam gears.

    Yellow dots = Roll pins through the links holding the chain together.

    Red lines = Where the respective dimple on the cam gear should "pass through" the chain. This line demonstrates how many links/roll pins etc... should be in between each dimple on the cam gear.

    Green circles = The keyhole on the cam gear where the dowel pin on each cam will fit into. Note the orientation.
    This is with the engine at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) for Cylinder # 1. It is not at TRUE TDC because the chain links are in a different part, but for all educational purposes, it will look like this with Cylinder #1 at TDC.

    If you have a pulley that is aftermarket, check which hash marks represent what numbers of timing. (Note: Sometimes the stock pulley can separate and give false readings.

    On the B14 OEM pulley, the 2nd hash mark from the left represents 0* or TDC at the crank.



    Once again, you want the pin that is stick out from the block to be right on top of the 0 degree mark.
    Last edited by Kyle; 12-13-12 at 12:19 AM.

  2. #2
    Hmmm...what goes here?
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Location: Lawrence, Kansas
    Posts: 884
    Feedback Score: 7 (100%)

    Default

    Note this is with #1 cylinder at TDC with cam lobes facing outwards on #1 cylinder.
    ~Ryan
    1992 NX2000 Hardtop
    1989 B12 AWD wagon
    1996 200SX SE-R Slowly geting the boost-treatment.:eek:
    Update: the SR20 has VE+T now, and P11 forward gears
    Quote Originally Posted by abelsgotspeed View Post
    look i dont feel like searching its either you give me the answer or you shut the fu*k up
    Quote Originally Posted by chriscar
    Easy rule when going turbo.... upgrade EVERYTHING. Because eventually you will need to.

  3. #3
    Master
    User Info
    Join Date: Jan 2008
    Posts: 2,735
    Feedback Score: 7 (89%)

    Default

    Word! Thanks for this. I was just about to search for it.

  4. #4
    OEM Plus.
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Posts: 11,107
    Feedback Score: 51 (100%)

    Default

    If you can't understand this by now, just put the valve cover back on...you are in above your head! I hope it helps many more from ruining some nice engines.

  5. #5
    I'm a motorist!
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Location: Portland OR
    Posts: 4,856
    Feedback Score: 15 (100%)

    Default

    I wish I had seen this a few weeks ago.

    You should post some pics of the crank too since you have to line it up with the markers on the pulley. I usually throw a big screwdriver or collapsing magnetic stick in the first cylinder too. I usually pull all 4 lugs so the motor is easier to turn over but thats just me. you just have to clean up a bit first so nothing falls into the cylinders.

    Your motor has a bit of sheen to it and that is pretty normal. I almost trust a motor that has a bit of a tan more than a clean one.
    Last edited by Benito Malito; 05-27-11 at 03:04 AM.
    1991 NX - Stalking Horse - mild bolt-ons
    1993 Sentra - my freinds 4 door SE-R VVL USDM Tsuru Sunny Supersaloon conversion in progress
    2011 Forester XT - DD
    "Everybody's got a plan... and then I punch them in the mouth." Mike Tyson

  6. #6
    OEM Plus.
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Posts: 11,107
    Feedback Score: 51 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Benito Malito View Post
    I wish I had seen this a few weeks ago.

    You should post some pics of the crank too since you have to line it up with the markers on the pulley. I usually throw a big screwdriver or collapsing magnetic stick in the first cylinder too. I usually pull all 4 plugs so the motor is easier to turn over but thats just me. you just have to clean up a bit first so nothing falls into the cylinders.
    All good and helpful points, thread has been adjusted.

    Quote Originally Posted by Benito Malito View Post
    Your motor has a bit of sheen to it and that is pretty normal. I almost trust a motor that has a bit of a tan more than a clean one.
    She is not bad for being 205,000 miles on original engine/headgasket. Just opened the valve cover up a few times, changed cams, changed the water pump last winter and she still nets around 27-30 MPG each week. I love it! Oil changes every 3,000 miles keeps the nasty gunk away.

  7. #7
    Master
    User Info
    Join Date: Jan 2008
    Posts: 2,735
    Feedback Score: 7 (89%)

    Default

    Are there supposed to be marks on the chain for where each point is when the motors at top dead center? I thought it was the japan symbols on my 93 chain. But once I looked closer one side of the chain for the cam has TWO japans

  8. #8
    OEM Plus.
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Posts: 11,107
    Feedback Score: 51 (100%)

    Default

    What matters (to some degree or not) are all of he points of reference being displayed in your engine as in the picture I gave.

    The marks on the chain will line up when everything is at TRUE top dead center.

  9. #9
    Master
    User Info
    Join Date: Jan 2008
    Posts: 2,735
    Feedback Score: 7 (89%)

    Default

    Yeah my problem was the chain was old and the marked links paint had fallen off lol. Should be good now though

  10. #10
    instagram @dro_sr
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Location: hoffman estates, ILL
    Posts: 3,179
    Feedback Score: 19 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Viprdude View Post
    What matters (to some degree or not) are all of he points of reference being displayed in your engine as in the picture I gave.

    The marks on the chain will line up when everything is at TRUE top dead center.
    so very true..i remember when i put in my old BC2 cams i triple checks everything..had a bunch o pics in that thread...if you ever wanted to compile some....extras let me know

    awsome thread tho,will problly scan oce or twice when i do n1s soon
    -pedro

    1993 nx2000 sr20VE
    1991 nx2000- PARTED OUT
    2008 maxda3 hatch
    2007 trailblazer LS
    2011 Explorer

  11. #11
    Member
    User Info
    Join Date: Jan 2008
    Posts: 3,409
    Feedback Score: 16 (100%)

    Default

    This came in handy the last few days with the last round of cam installs!

    Thanks Kyle!
    How much boost are you running?

    All of it............

  12. #12
    Member
    User Info
    Join Date: Mar 2011
    Location: Orlando
    Posts: 1,460
    Feedback Score: 20 (100%)

    Default

    @Kyle thanks tjis helped out a bunch
    91 b13 ve-t strapped
    99' p11 touring edition, honda gsr 4:1 header.

  13. #13
    OEM Plus.
    User Info
    Join Date: Dec 2007
    Posts: 11,107
    Feedback Score: 51 (100%)

    Default

    Woot! I am happy to find this thread is helping folks out.

 

 

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Back to top