How to remove ABS
I was asked for info on how to remove the ABS
Did this a few years ago (2006!)
This is the guide I used ( pics have gone now tho )
Dave
-----Was posted on nissangtir.co.uk by username 1of2 ----------
recently removed the abs from one of my cars and since testing it all works fine. so here is how i did it.
first up you will need the engine out the way so this is a job best done when the engine is out for some other reason first. other wise is a massive job rather than a smallish one.
tools.
10, 12, 14mm spanners
wheel nut removing tool. e.g. tyre iron, breaker bar with socket or air gun etc.
brake line bending tool
brake line crimping tool
pipe cutting tool or fine bladed hacksaw
bucket for old brake fluid
around 30cm of clear vacuume hose
jack
axle stands
parts needed.
i didnt use any new parts (except brake fluid). i recycled the other parts of the abs lines to make my new lines up. this may or maynot be possible with your car depending on how rusted or damaged the old lines are when you come to do the job.
if the lines are in a bad way then you will need.
3/8th copper brake line around 3m long
4x 10mm brake end nuts
new brake fluid.
fisrt up bleed the brake system dry. Rear drivers caliper first, then rear passengers, front passenger and lastly front drivers. make sure the master cylinder pot is empty after bleeding. Bleed the first one lots and then the others should be quicker.
to bleed the brake calipers you will need a 10mm spanner, wheel nut sized tool (mine are 19mm), a short lengeth of clear vacuume hose and a bucket to catch fluid in, jack and axle stand.
jack the rear left corner up and place the car on an axle stand. if you dont have an air gun then losen the wheel nuts before you jack the car up.
take the wheel off and you will see the brakes. remove the bleed nipple rubber cover (if there is one). the bleed nipple is shown in the picture below. where the yellow arrow is pointing. (sorry for the out of focus picture)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/bleednipple.jpg" border="0">
the bleed nipples tend to stick shut on their thread. to get them of you must have a very tight fitting 10mm spanner. best to be a ring spanner. i find that if i cant just pull them undone with one hand if i shock the spanner with just my arms they thend to come lose.
by shock i mean get both hands on the spanner and for a split second pull as hard as you can but with an aim to only move the spanner 1/8th of a turn. a couple of goes like this normally gets them off.
if not then a long tight fitting 10mm socket will get them shifted.
you only want the nipple just cracked off atm. not undone all the way. now get the lengeth of clear vac hose and put it on the open end of the bleed nipple. Put the other end in the bucket. Then undo the bleed nipple maybe 1 turn with the open end of the spanner.
Take the brake fluid pot cap off and then pump the brakes till no more fluid comes out of the nipple.
Tighten up the nipple (not too tight yet) and remove the hose.
Repeat this for the other rear and then the front passenger side then front drivers.
Now you have drained enough fluid from the system you can start to take the abs out.
there are only 2 outputs from the master cylinder and both of them go to the abs unit. trace both these lines and remove them from the abs pump. (see picture2. lines 1 and 2 and also both at 3.)
you will need a 10mm spanner just like for the bleed nipple. These joints can also be tight so a light shock may be needed to get the nuts out. They are the 2 pipes on the top of the abs pump. See pic 3 lines “1, 1”
Once they are out you can remove the out put lines from the pump. Same trick as the input lines. See pic 3 line “0, 0” excuse crap drawing.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/abslines1.jpg" border="0">
Removing the pump.
There are 3 nuts that hold the pump to the chassis. There are also 3 plugs/wires.
First up remove the 2 plugs. They are the left most plugs in the bundle of plugs above the abs pump. See pic 3 “p1”
There is a third ground wire that is held in place by the bracket that holds all the plugs to the firewall. The screws (s) hold the bracket on and the wire he behind the right screw (p2).
You will be able to get this out with a spanner. Replace the screw after removing the wire.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/pump1.jpg" border="0">
Now the wires are out you can undo the 3 nuts holding the pump down. The pic only shows one of the nuts (N) but the other one is further back on the same side. The third one is behind the pump towards the right wing (as you look at the picture). Best access is with a long spanner from above. You can only get a small turn on the nut each time so a wrachet spanner is best if you have one. The nuts only need to be lose to pull the pump out as the holes are slotted.
Remove the pump and then remove the bracket it sat on. You may need to bend the brake lines out the way. Try not to bend them more than needed.
Removing old abs lines.
Now the pump is gone you will have 2 extra brake lines going from where the pump used to be back to the silver joint block in the middle of the fire wall. In pic1 you can see the 2 inputs from the pump marked as “4”. They are the 2 left most lines going into that connector.
Remove the lines with a 10mm spanner. Same trick with cracking them off. These lines can now be put to one side as they are no longer needed.
Plumbing in new brake lines.
There are 2 choices here. I chose to reuse the old brake lines as after I had bent them to shape they were still in good order. The standard lines are steel and much harder to work with than copper.
Its up to you if you replace the lines for new copper ones or weather you cut and rebend the old lines. I’m going to assume that you are reusing the old lines as this is what I did.
Look at pic 4. With a bit of string measure the distance from the line to the 2 inputs (i, i).
The lower output line from the master cylinder should go in the lower input of the block and the upper line should go in the upper input. (does that make sence?)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/pic4oldlines.jpg" border="0">
You need to measure the distance the pipe would run from the line to the inputs on the block. Then using the bit of string as a lengeth guide. Measure up each line to the correct lengeth and mark with a pen. You need to add the lengeth of the thread of the 10mm fittings to the lengeth you just measured. Add this and mark with a pen.
Get your pipe bending tool out and bend the pipe as best you can so that there is at least 30mm of straight pipe going into the block at the same angle as the hole. If you look at picture “bottom line” you can see the lower pipe bent into shape with no end on the line yet. I did bend it a tiny bit more to get some extra lengeth into the hole after this pic was taken. But not by much. This line has also been cut. Your’s should still be too long at this point.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/bottomline.jpg" border="0">
Now you have marked up the lengeths the lines need to be you have to very carefully bend them away from the fire wall and remove them from their clips enough so that you can get the pipe cutter on the line. Pipe cutters can be had from most diy stores and are used for cutting central heating copper pipe normally. You need to adjust it down to the size of the brake line and spin it round the mark you made till it cuts.
If you don’t have a pipe cutter then you can do this with a hacksaw. If you are using a hacksaw I would add an extra 5mm to the lengeth of the pipe to allow for cleaning up the end after the cut.
The bits of line that you cut off are still needed. You need the slide the screw end fitting off the line and reuse it on the newly bent bit of line. If the end has become damaged when undoing it then don’t panic as you have more of them on the 2 lines you took out of the abs pump. Just cut the spare pipe up and get the fitting off the end.
Put one end fitting on each line and get out your brake line crimping tool. MAKE SURE THE FITTING IS ON THE LINE BEFORE YOU CRIMP IT!!!
Use the 3/8ths setting on the crimping tool and clamp it in hard. Wind in the end shaping plug as hard as you can. As the standard lines are steel I had to use grips on both the clamp and the end tool to have enough force to bend the steel. Once crimped take the tools off the end and inspect your work there should be a nice flanged out end that the fitting sits up aginst snugly when pulled to the end of the line.
With the new ends fitted you can screw them into the conecting block and do them up nice and tight. Now its time for brake bleeding. Allways bleed the brakes in the following order. Furthest away first, down to shortest last. drivers rear, passenger rear, passenger front, drivers front.
Make sure you keep the fluid level high during bleeding. Its easier with 2 people. There are about 10 pumps of the pedal before you need to check the level of the pot.
Now with your new non abs brakes, you are in control! Rather than some outdated pile of crap that called its self a safety device.
-----------------
Did this a few years ago (2006!)
This is the guide I used ( pics have gone now tho )
Dave
-----Was posted on nissangtir.co.uk by username 1of2 ----------
recently removed the abs from one of my cars and since testing it all works fine. so here is how i did it.
first up you will need the engine out the way so this is a job best done when the engine is out for some other reason first. other wise is a massive job rather than a smallish one.
tools.
10, 12, 14mm spanners
wheel nut removing tool. e.g. tyre iron, breaker bar with socket or air gun etc.
brake line bending tool
brake line crimping tool
pipe cutting tool or fine bladed hacksaw
bucket for old brake fluid
around 30cm of clear vacuume hose
jack
axle stands
parts needed.
i didnt use any new parts (except brake fluid). i recycled the other parts of the abs lines to make my new lines up. this may or maynot be possible with your car depending on how rusted or damaged the old lines are when you come to do the job.
if the lines are in a bad way then you will need.
3/8th copper brake line around 3m long
4x 10mm brake end nuts
new brake fluid.
fisrt up bleed the brake system dry. Rear drivers caliper first, then rear passengers, front passenger and lastly front drivers. make sure the master cylinder pot is empty after bleeding. Bleed the first one lots and then the others should be quicker.
to bleed the brake calipers you will need a 10mm spanner, wheel nut sized tool (mine are 19mm), a short lengeth of clear vacuume hose and a bucket to catch fluid in, jack and axle stand.
jack the rear left corner up and place the car on an axle stand. if you dont have an air gun then losen the wheel nuts before you jack the car up.
take the wheel off and you will see the brakes. remove the bleed nipple rubber cover (if there is one). the bleed nipple is shown in the picture below. where the yellow arrow is pointing. (sorry for the out of focus picture)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/bleednipple.jpg" border="0">
the bleed nipples tend to stick shut on their thread. to get them of you must have a very tight fitting 10mm spanner. best to be a ring spanner. i find that if i cant just pull them undone with one hand if i shock the spanner with just my arms they thend to come lose.
by shock i mean get both hands on the spanner and for a split second pull as hard as you can but with an aim to only move the spanner 1/8th of a turn. a couple of goes like this normally gets them off.
if not then a long tight fitting 10mm socket will get them shifted.
you only want the nipple just cracked off atm. not undone all the way. now get the lengeth of clear vac hose and put it on the open end of the bleed nipple. Put the other end in the bucket. Then undo the bleed nipple maybe 1 turn with the open end of the spanner.
Take the brake fluid pot cap off and then pump the brakes till no more fluid comes out of the nipple.
Tighten up the nipple (not too tight yet) and remove the hose.
Repeat this for the other rear and then the front passenger side then front drivers.
Now you have drained enough fluid from the system you can start to take the abs out.
there are only 2 outputs from the master cylinder and both of them go to the abs unit. trace both these lines and remove them from the abs pump. (see picture2. lines 1 and 2 and also both at 3.)
you will need a 10mm spanner just like for the bleed nipple. These joints can also be tight so a light shock may be needed to get the nuts out. They are the 2 pipes on the top of the abs pump. See pic 3 lines “1, 1”
Once they are out you can remove the out put lines from the pump. Same trick as the input lines. See pic 3 line “0, 0” excuse crap drawing.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/abslines1.jpg" border="0">
Removing the pump.
There are 3 nuts that hold the pump to the chassis. There are also 3 plugs/wires.
First up remove the 2 plugs. They are the left most plugs in the bundle of plugs above the abs pump. See pic 3 “p1”
There is a third ground wire that is held in place by the bracket that holds all the plugs to the firewall. The screws (s) hold the bracket on and the wire he behind the right screw (p2).
You will be able to get this out with a spanner. Replace the screw after removing the wire.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/pump1.jpg" border="0">
Now the wires are out you can undo the 3 nuts holding the pump down. The pic only shows one of the nuts (N) but the other one is further back on the same side. The third one is behind the pump towards the right wing (as you look at the picture). Best access is with a long spanner from above. You can only get a small turn on the nut each time so a wrachet spanner is best if you have one. The nuts only need to be lose to pull the pump out as the holes are slotted.
Remove the pump and then remove the bracket it sat on. You may need to bend the brake lines out the way. Try not to bend them more than needed.
Removing old abs lines.
Now the pump is gone you will have 2 extra brake lines going from where the pump used to be back to the silver joint block in the middle of the fire wall. In pic1 you can see the 2 inputs from the pump marked as “4”. They are the 2 left most lines going into that connector.
Remove the lines with a 10mm spanner. Same trick with cracking them off. These lines can now be put to one side as they are no longer needed.
Plumbing in new brake lines.
There are 2 choices here. I chose to reuse the old brake lines as after I had bent them to shape they were still in good order. The standard lines are steel and much harder to work with than copper.
Its up to you if you replace the lines for new copper ones or weather you cut and rebend the old lines. I’m going to assume that you are reusing the old lines as this is what I did.
Look at pic 4. With a bit of string measure the distance from the line to the 2 inputs (i, i).
The lower output line from the master cylinder should go in the lower input of the block and the upper line should go in the upper input. (does that make sence?)
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/pic4oldlines.jpg" border="0">
You need to measure the distance the pipe would run from the line to the inputs on the block. Then using the bit of string as a lengeth guide. Measure up each line to the correct lengeth and mark with a pen. You need to add the lengeth of the thread of the 10mm fittings to the lengeth you just measured. Add this and mark with a pen.
Get your pipe bending tool out and bend the pipe as best you can so that there is at least 30mm of straight pipe going into the block at the same angle as the hole. If you look at picture “bottom line” you can see the lower pipe bent into shape with no end on the line yet. I did bend it a tiny bit more to get some extra lengeth into the hole after this pic was taken. But not by much. This line has also been cut. Your’s should still be too long at this point.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c75/alfanutterdafirst/bottomline.jpg" border="0">
Now you have marked up the lengeths the lines need to be you have to very carefully bend them away from the fire wall and remove them from their clips enough so that you can get the pipe cutter on the line. Pipe cutters can be had from most diy stores and are used for cutting central heating copper pipe normally. You need to adjust it down to the size of the brake line and spin it round the mark you made till it cuts.
If you don’t have a pipe cutter then you can do this with a hacksaw. If you are using a hacksaw I would add an extra 5mm to the lengeth of the pipe to allow for cleaning up the end after the cut.
The bits of line that you cut off are still needed. You need the slide the screw end fitting off the line and reuse it on the newly bent bit of line. If the end has become damaged when undoing it then don’t panic as you have more of them on the 2 lines you took out of the abs pump. Just cut the spare pipe up and get the fitting off the end.
Put one end fitting on each line and get out your brake line crimping tool. MAKE SURE THE FITTING IS ON THE LINE BEFORE YOU CRIMP IT!!!
Use the 3/8ths setting on the crimping tool and clamp it in hard. Wind in the end shaping plug as hard as you can. As the standard lines are steel I had to use grips on both the clamp and the end tool to have enough force to bend the steel. Once crimped take the tools off the end and inspect your work there should be a nice flanged out end that the fitting sits up aginst snugly when pulled to the end of the line.
With the new ends fitted you can screw them into the conecting block and do them up nice and tight. Now its time for brake bleeding. Allways bleed the brakes in the following order. Furthest away first, down to shortest last. drivers rear, passenger rear, passenger front, drivers front.
Make sure you keep the fluid level high during bleeding. Its easier with 2 people. There are about 10 pumps of the pedal before you need to check the level of the pot.
Now with your new non abs brakes, you are in control! Rather than some outdated pile of crap that called its self a safety device.
-----------------
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