Thread: "Project A/C to beat the heat" "Pics Inside"

I think the project ac is the best to do.. i used to drive my nx without ac for 5 years in the hot ass arizona summer. used to be single and people hated riding with me, but i didnt care... got a girl now, and found out that heat melts makeup, and its not good especially when you are trying to go out on a date or something.. we started takin her b14 since it had ac but it sucks for power because of the GA. Rockin the G now with ac blowin when its close to triple digits out. so far, survived the 120+ temps with ac blowin semi cold. ill have to go outside in a bit and get the specs off my G if youd like.. its a 93.5 highport.

For now, got some info for you off of my comp off of my 93 NX. didnt get a pic of the mount as its still in the car and the cars not here, but got some pics of the comp and some info off of the tag...

Comp. Type: DKV-14D
Part No: 92600 68Y20
Part No: second line: (75140 45010)
Ser No: U362701436
Oil: D220WX 200cm3 (cubic cm)
Min test pressure: High SIde: 3.0MPa
Min Test Pressure: Low Side: 1.6MPa
Refrig Type: R12
MFD Zexel Corp
Assembled in USA

Crappy Phone pics... hope they are clear enough.
Comp Tag


Comp Pulley


Comp Mounts

get the aluminum ac bracket from the RR engine.

So i looked at the one in my 93.5 usdm highport G, it looks like the one in your pic with the same kind of tag.. i couldnt get in there far enough to read it or see the mounting plate because the solid line was in the way and its getting dark out. it is for R-134A though. ill see if i can get a part number off of it and a little further details on the mount.

The 91-92 FWD SR20 Nissans use the NVR140S compressor, which is R12 only.

The 93-97 FWD SR20 Nissans use the DKV14D compressor, which can be used with either R12 or R134a.

The dryer has different material in it depending on if it's R12 or R134a system. Get a dryer for a '91 SE-R if you are going R12, for a '94 SE-R if you are going R134a. Only use new dryers.

You may also want use a new aftermarket condenser. They are cheap, and original OEM ones often get clogged with debris from compressor failures.

Also use a new expansion valve. Same reason as the condenser.

^Where would I get a aftermarket one? The more I think about the A/C condensor, I want to purchase this part new as well. I don't want it to be clogged up.



^Why?

Weight savings. The cast iron mount is one heavy bitch. An aluminum one would be sweet to have.

^I've never seen one. Where would I find a pic?

O-Rings will be in shorty. I still dont' know what car/cars that A/C compressor from post #1 could have came from.



^Bump for a pic.

If the a/c compressor clutch is goin out, couldn't you just buy the clutch and change it out?


I mean you would just need a spanner wrench and some snap ring pliers?

I've done this on a Suzuki sx4 with no a/c before

While you are addressing the AC issue, there are two (2) things that will make your new (pre-owned) AC work even better.

1) Upgraded cooling fans. Lower the temperature on that AC condenser. It made a noticable difference in my AC cooling power.

2) My AC used to cycle on and off. For over a decade. "That is just the way it is designed." Bah! Apparently the AC is designed to cool your ass off whenever it decides you need cold air. However, a 3-peice UR pulley set made the "cycling" go away. Now it just blows cold as long as I have it cranked. No more cycling.

Here's why:

http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-technical-corner/161060-ac-fuel-injector-general-questions.html

I hope that helps sir.