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Thread: HELP!!!!

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Posts: 11-20 of 23
2014-04-23 02:09:27
#11
Thanks fellas. I appreciate all the advice and help so far. I just got back from the garage and decided to start the car again to see if anything has changed overnight. Of course, starts right back up and feels solid. 5 mins later, the car idles down again and dies. So I re-checked the wiring and re-wired one more time just to make sure there is a good/solid connection for all used wires. Started it up and runs solid for approx. 3 mins, then idles down and dies. After beating my head on the table, I decided to look at the OEM intake tube that is connected to the MAF and I see some cracks. Some small, and some pretty big to create a leak. Could this be a possible problem? I'm definitely going to replace it with a short ram pipe soon, considering I will not be boosting until this problem has been resolved. One step at a time. Here below is a video from today. Sorry for the volume quality. You may have to turn up your speakers a bit.

Last edited by 96NismoB14 on 2014-04-23 at 02-18-29.
2014-04-23 02:14:41
#12
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
As mentioned, it is a MAF problem. Had this same code (P0100) a month ago (N/A application).

In regards to the wiring, there is no problem with twist connections, provided the wires are clean and the connections are tight. I seal twist connections with electrical tape, followed by 2 layers of heat shrink tubing. The second layer should be longer than the first. A good twist connection will be stronger than a dirty or weak solder connection. I don't bother soldering unless making connections on an electrical board or similar. If there is proper continuity, then there is proper continuity.

If you are positive that the wiring is proper, the MAF ground is good and continutiy exists between all connections, you can then look at other areas. (*Don't forget to check that the engine harness has a clean and secure engine ground connection*)

Have you recently oiled the air filter? Try this and see what happens...

1) Check all connections for proper continuity and voltage.
2) Check MAF voltage with ignition on (car probably won't idle to warm-up condition)
3) If all seems good so far, remove key from ignition and disconnect the negative lead on the battery.
4) Remove MAF harness connector and check the harness and MAF pins for damage and debris.
5) Remove hose clamps & MAF from car. Clean sensor hot wire w/ CRC MAF cleaner (follow instructions on can)
6) Let MAF dry completely and reinstall, making sure all hose clamps are tight and NOT leaking.
7) Re-connect the MAF harness and make sure it is properly and fully seated.
8) Check to make sure everything is how it sould be
9) Re-connect negative lead on the battery (the time disconnected should clear the P0100 code)
10) Start the car and see what happens..


Thanks for the advice and step by step instructions. I will start from here. I just need to get my hands on a multi-meter or a voltage meter first.

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by ebinkerd
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/1996/EC.pdf
Start at page 93. Let us know what you find. Make any wiring repairs the right way.


Thanks. Definitely will let you fellas know once I resolve this headache.
2014-04-23 04:20:47
#13
Yes if you are introducing unmetered air that's definitely a problem. I'd fix that pipe before anything else

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
2014-04-24 03:12:11
#14
I did the twist and tape method for my MAF wires and it lasted three years before finally 2 of them separated on the first hot day of the season (84 degrees, the glue on the tape I guess just finally gave way

Sure it was a PITA to figure out what it was, but my back hurts enough from bending over and I'm lazy
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2014-04-24 at 03-17-21.
2014-04-24 03:15:27
#15
Originally Posted by LAM-PARK

If the MAF was mis-wired you may have damaged the MAF Driver inside the JWT ECU.


it's possible, I don't know about the Z32, but my N60 MAF was miswired for about 6 different startups b/c I'm colorblind and I fixed it and it runs fine. it happens but I think its rare
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2014-04-24 at 03-38-16.
2014-04-24 03:35:45
#16
Originally Posted by Storm88000
I did the twist and tape method for my MAF wires and it lasted three years before finally 2 of them separated on the first hot day of the season (84 degrees, the glue on the tape I guess just finally gave way

Sure it was a PITA to figure out what it was, but my back hurts enough from bending over and I'm lazy


LOL. Its definitely a PITA. Hopefully when my short ram comes in, hopefully this will fix it. MAF and everything seems legit. I can't tell you guys how much I've re-wired the MAF thinking its my wiring. I guess only time will tell. Gotta start troubleshooting backwards.
2014-04-24 03:41:35
#17
How much bigger is the Z32 than the N60 in bore size? I came across an E60 MAF the other day but don't feel like having my ECU redone for it. It looked identical to the N60
2014-05-01 02:22:48
#18
Originally Posted by Storm88000
How much bigger is the Z32 than the N60 in bore size? I came across an E60 MAF the other day but don't feel like having my ECU redone for it. It looked identical to the N60


Wish I could tell ya bro.
2014-05-01 02:35:19
#19
Originally Posted by Storm88000
How much bigger is the Z32 than the N60 in bore size? I came across an E60 MAF the other day but don't feel like having my ECU redone for it. It looked identical to the N60


Originally Posted by 96NismoB14

Wish I could tell ya bro.


http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/167-maf-size-part-s-whp-output.html

E/N60 are 70mm
Z32 is a 76mm
2014-05-01 02:43:17
#20
Originally Posted by 96NismoB14
Thanks fellas. I appreciate all the advice and help so far. I just got back from the garage and decided to start the car again to see if anything has changed overnight. Of course, starts right back up and feels solid. 5 mins later, the car idles down again and dies. So I re-checked the wiring and re-wired one more time just to make sure there is a good/solid connection for all used wires. Started it up and runs solid for approx. 3 mins, then idles down and dies.


Intake tube isn't the problem.
Replace your MAF. Simple as that.

My car was doing the same thing, if it was cold the car ran great once it warmed up a bit it'd start doing what yours does.
All i had was a bad maf.

Check how the maf is performing....
http://www.sr20-forum.com/tuning/17897-how-well-your-maf-performing.html
(for wiring references- http://www.sr20-forum.com/howto-s/9138-nissan-maf-wiring-dummies.html)
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