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Turbo Flutter, good or bad ?

Thread: Turbo Flutter, good or bad ?

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Posts: 11-20 of 38
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2016-05-08 16:19:56
#11
Sounds like you don't need to be operating a turbo engine since you don't understand how any of it works. Keep it up and you will damage your engine and wallet.


Every thing you need to fix this issue has been discussed.
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2016-05-08 20:00:38
#12
Excuse me EGG HEAD, i have been offshore for a while, there's more things than maintaining a turbo engine here. if u are not helpful dont post a shit !

Im trying to narrow down the problem, n fix it. not clowning with u or anyone
Last edited by SR20DET_B14 on 2016-05-08 at 20-02-12.
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2016-05-08 21:24:31
#13
Originally Posted by SR20DET_B14
i still have a problem, no boosting slowly driving, the idling is quick to stall too.... this is a headache

later im gonna check the spark plugs


Originally Posted by Y2KG20
It all sounds like a bad idea. You need to leave the blow off installed. Just get a recirculate nipple fitting for your HKS and recirculate or switch over to blow through. You are blowing off metered air and your ECU doesn't like that.


I'm sure NissanEgg meant no disrespect. It's just frustrating when people seek solutions to their problems but then seem to ignore everything when solutions are presented. You haven't said but have you done what has already been suggested?
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2016-05-08 23:22:32
#14
Last thing i did i have my HKS wide open to atmosphere blasting 15psi sounds sick welded on my hotpipe next to the right fog light and i suffer alot with stall issues just because i didn't wanna mess with rerouting literally all my piping i did when to the maf between the throttle body and the cold side and it mess all my tune or ecu didn't liked it a got alot of sputtering when i was building boost my solution or kinda helped me alot it still stalls every now and than i added a safcNEO and it has an option (DECEL AIR) i messed with it and i adjusted idle and now i can leave it sitting for an hr or so on idling and it doesn't stall that was a solution fo me and i can also changed it when neededit or adjust depends on weather here we can get 2 ft of snow or really hot weather so it works for me i did my research and i love my hks blasting on ricers on the street and in not gonna change it its almost gonna be 2 yrs this summer running it like that and my car still runs strong daily driven so if safc neo can be an option for you if you have access to one dont let any discouraged put you down i hope it helps
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2016-05-08 23:28:48
#15
http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction-mechanical/30146-proper-way-set-up-decel-air-safc-neo.html
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2016-05-09 11:30:10
#16
Originally Posted by ztunedsr20
http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction-mechanical/30146-proper-way-set-up-decel-air-safc-neo.html


Originally Posted by LukaMcCloud
Originally Posted by FuLLah
The maf is draw thru and the bov is vented.


Your problem is the MAF setup. If you're going to run a draw through MAF setup, you absolutely must recirculate your blowoff valve. If you don't, you're just letting metered air blow out to the atmosphere while all the fuel is just being pumped into your engine.

The ECU reads the MAF to measure the amount of air coming into the engine. So, once the air passes through the MAF the ECU has already compensated for that air by providing the corresponding amount of fuel for the air. If you vent that air to the atmosphere you are giving your engine a bunch of fuel for air that is not there.

When you recirculate the air, it bypasses the MAF so the turbo still pushes the air through the system without pulling air through the MAF sensor. By doing this the ECU doesn't read a bunch of air inturn dumping fuel for air that isn't actually entering the engine. That's why you need to recirculate when you run draw through.

Now, if you really want to dump to atmosphere, you need to reconfigure your MAF setup and run blow through. You run your MAF in the stock location and run your BOV at least 8" before that. You can really place the BOV anywhere in the piping system between the turbo and MAF. DO THIS FIRST BEFORE YOU MESS WITH THE TUNE, OTHERWISE RECIRCULATE YOUR BOV. It is very important that you do this.

I went through the same problem. I reconfigured my setup when I installed my FMIC and haven't had any problems. I just need to fix my idle cuz I screwed with that trying to fix the problem you're now having.

Hope this helps.

Lance


The solution was also given in the thread linked above and the OP reconfigured his setup.
Originally Posted by FuLLah
Thanks for the help guys. The maf was moved to a blow thru setup and the car is definitely pulling better . . .
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2016-05-10 11:20:05
#17
...and one more for good measure.

Hope you get your issues resolved. Keep us updated.
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2016-05-10 14:19:27
#18
Originally Posted by 1fastser
Originally Posted by ztunedsr20
http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction-mechanical/30146-proper-way-set-up-decel-air-safc-neo.html


Originally Posted by LukaMcCloud
Originally Posted by FuLLah
The maf is draw thru and the bov is vented.


Your problem is the MAF setup. If you're going to run a draw through MAF setup, you absolutely must recirculate your blowoff valve. If you don't, you're just letting metered air blow out to the atmosphere while all the fuel is just being pumped into your engine.

The ECU reads the MAF to measure the amount of air coming into the engine. So, once the air passes through the MAF the ECU has already compensated for that air by providing the corresponding amount of fuel for the air. If you vent that air to the atmosphere you are giving your engine a bunch of fuel for air that is not there.

When you recirculate the air, it bypasses the MAF so the turbo still pushes the air through the system without pulling air through the MAF sensor. By doing this the ECU doesn't read a bunch of air inturn dumping fuel for air that isn't actually entering the engine. That's why you need to recirculate when you run draw through.

Now, if you really want to dump to atmosphere, you need to reconfigure your MAF setup and run blow through. You run your MAF in the stock location and run your BOV at least 8" before that. You can really place the BOV anywhere in the piping system between the turbo and MAF. DO THIS FIRST BEFORE YOU MESS WITH THE TUNE, OTHERWISE RECIRCULATE YOUR BOV. It is very important that you do this.

I went through the same problem. I reconfigured my setup when I installed my FMIC and haven't had any problems. I just need to fix my idle cuz I screwed with that trying to fix the problem you're now having.

Hope this helps.

Lance


The solution was also given in the thread linked above and the OP reconfigured his setup.
Originally Posted by FuLLah
Thanks for the help guys. The maf was moved to a blow thru setup and the car is definitely pulling better . . .




Im gonna call this post bs since guy is obviously having issues on pretty much low boost on idle issues (meaining blow off valve not even opening) ( hence this post gets cancel right than and there) and doesn't apply this this theory. and even me i had to riching up the car since it would idle on the 17s and up and died so thats was reason i adjusted with safc neo and bring it down to 14s and itll stay idle with no issues so obviously guy its looking for a quick fix (means no time to wrench or do all the rerouting that its required, reason i posted my solution that has been working for me for almost 2yrs , takes some good reasoning take be part of the solution instead of blaming people or putting people down sometimes i think it should be call haterssr20forum
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2016-05-10 14:41:04
#19
Originally Posted by ztunedsr20
Originally Posted by 1fastser
Originally Posted by ztunedsr20
http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction-mechanical/30146-proper-way-set-up-decel-air-safc-neo.html


Originally Posted by LukaMcCloud
Originally Posted by FuLLah
The maf is draw thru and the bov is vented.


Your problem is the MAF setup. If you're going to run a draw through MAF setup, you absolutely must recirculate your blowoff valve. If you don't, you're just letting metered air blow out to the atmosphere while all the fuel is just being pumped into your engine.

The ECU reads the MAF to measure the amount of air coming into the engine. So, once the air passes through the MAF the ECU has already compensated for that air by providing the corresponding amount of fuel for the air. If you vent that air to the atmosphere you are giving your engine a bunch of fuel for air that is not there.

When you recirculate the air, it bypasses the MAF so the turbo still pushes the air through the system without pulling air through the MAF sensor. By doing this the ECU doesn't read a bunch of air inturn dumping fuel for air that isn't actually entering the engine. That's why you need to recirculate when you run draw through.

Now, if you really want to dump to atmosphere, you need to reconfigure your MAF setup and run blow through. You run your MAF in the stock location and run your BOV at least 8" before that. You can really place the BOV anywhere in the piping system between the turbo and MAF. DO THIS FIRST BEFORE YOU MESS WITH THE TUNE, OTHERWISE RECIRCULATE YOUR BOV. It is very important that you do this.

I went through the same problem. I reconfigured my setup when I installed my FMIC and haven't had any problems. I just need to fix my idle cuz I screwed with that trying to fix the problem you're now having.

Hope this helps.

Lance


The solution was also given in the thread linked above and the OP reconfigured his setup.
Originally Posted by FuLLah
Thanks for the help guys. The maf was moved to a blow thru setup and the car is definitely pulling better . . .




Im gonna call this post bs since guy is obviously having issues on pretty much low boost on idle issues (meaining blow off valve not even opening) ( hence this post gets cancel right than and there) and doesn't apply this this theory. and even me i had to riching up the car since it would idle on the 17s and up and died so thats was reason i adjusted with safc neo and bring it down to 14s and itll stay idle with no issues so obviously guy its looking for a quick fix (means no time to wrench or do all the rerouting that its required, reason i posted my solution that has been working for me for almost 2yrs , takes some good reasoning take be part of the solution instead of blaming people or putting people down sometimes i think it should be call haterssr20forum


Sounds familiar. It's great that yours has been working and I agree 100% about taking "some good reasoning" and offering solutions. Some solutions are better than others. Some solutions are band-aids to real solutions. The OP can decide which route he wants to travel.
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2016-05-11 18:13:42
#20
Went to dyno tune today. Problem still there, engine stall. It had everyone's head spinning n looking for clues why my voltage is jumping up n down erratically.

Even my humble tuner were Trying to narrow down possibilities. He asked me a lot of things like, are the engine block a det ? Or pistons are det ? Etc, sounds ridiculous ? But it's just a routine check.


Finally after done many check n a compression test on each piston, we figured it must the plug cable. Indeed cable #4 had a leak, we sealed the leak with a tape, it was back to normal. But it's not gonna hold Long, so I decided to buy a set of new plug cables.

EVERY DAMN PROBLEM SOLVED! No more stalling or voltage problem.

I adjusted the throttle butterfly valve to idle at 1300rpm, now I have no issues of stalling with my blow off installed back on.

Car is doing 240whp and 270whp when exhaust cut out activated.

Many thanks to advice contributed by everyone, cheers !
Last edited by SR20DET_B14 on 2016-05-11 at 18-32-59.
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