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Thread: SER RallyX Suspension Advise?

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Posts: 31-40 of 41
2010-12-26 16:05:12
#31
I should have shared that with you guys, there was a link on the non-dash a while back with that same manual. I have it downloaded in it's entirety
2010-12-28 06:18:27
#32
Originally Posted by wildmane
I should have shared that with you guys, there was a link on the non-dash a while back with that same manual. I have it downloaded in it's entirety


Yeah, it's a good read.

I've been going back and forth and back and forth about the parallel arms. I wanted to build something with polyurethane bushings to keep some compliance in the suspension, but then I decided I really want something that gives me camber adjustment, since the car will be lifted and probably have some significant positive camber at normal ride height. My struts come with crash bolts, but I'd rather have a proper adjustment. And the easy way to do that is with a nice chunk of DOM, tube adapters and a couple of heims. But that starts adding up quick and I'm feeling stingy at the moment.

Since I've pulled the passenger rear entirely off the car over the last day or so (Maxima caliper, JDM NX rotor, repacked the bearings, removed dust shield, installed poly bushings in knuckle and trailing arm, poly bushing on the sway bar, SS brake line and Hotbits inverted coilover), I decided to box the existing parallel links by welding in a 3/4"x1/8" filler piece along the bottom. Worked out pretty well. Pics maybe tomorrow (just primed them). The ES bushings will go in these and then I'll look at building tubular, adjustable arms after Rally Minnesota in May.
2011-07-13 09:54:37
#33
Are you running 8in or 10in springs. Im not an expert, but I believe some of the rally coilovers are 10" which makes a difference when ur talking spring rates. Im curious as I will be ordering Ground Control springs to change out for rally events. Am I correct in saying a 250# spring rate with 2 more inches makes a 500# difference in total spring resistance?
2011-07-13 10:17:37
#34
I currently have 8in installed with 300/240 (pretty stiff.) There is plenty of room to add 2 more inches, so I was thinking about going with 10" 210/160. Vehicle weight is 2450 total 1430f/1020r. Whatcha think.

Dont want to throw away $ getting the wrong springs. And obviouly if im looking at the GC springs, $ is a factor.
2011-07-13 14:43:23
#35
The extra length will only make a difference if you have the suspension travel to use it. If the strut is bottom/topping out before it comes into play it's not going to make any difference at all.

I'm building with 12" springs + helper springs, but that's on a full-blown inverted monotube coilover, remote reservoir setup which can use all of that travel.
2011-07-13 18:04:54
#36
I looked at the numbers wrong (Springs were installed when I purchased the b13.) The rear are GC200.64.44 which would be 8"x2.5" and 175lb. that surprises me since the rear is very stiff. I am going to run at the MiDiv Championship in Tulsa, (if ..... my p11 lsd tranny comes in from Japan in time , anyone want to come help with the swap?) I will have to see how these springs do lifted up.

If I bounce the rear end over a cone without disturbing it, there's no penalty, right
2011-07-13 18:32:51
#37
Extra points for that I would assume.
2011-07-13 18:56:23
#38
Originally Posted by llaprad1
Extra points for that I would assume.


Didn't u run the national rallyx at manchester in sept. I was there in the Jeep kicking up all the dust.


Last edited by testdrivemagazine on 2011-07-13 at 22-32-06.
2011-07-13 19:26:25
#39
For reference, my springs (for full stage rally) are 308 front and 224 rear.
2011-07-13 22:35:45
#40
Originally Posted by Vector
For reference, my springs (for full stage rally) are 308 front and 224 rear.


yeah, i didn't realize soft numbers on paper could feel so stiff. 175 seams like it should do ok. just have to run an event to find out.
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