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Thread: super retard dizzy to get normal timing

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Posts: 11-20 of 67
2010-07-26 20:37:14
#11
Originally Posted by blo0d
ok... had it happen to atleast 3 ve's so if u say so bro... also did i mention u wont see it from examining the outter (visible) side of the pulley?


ok the problem isnt getting it timed.. that i have no problem with... the problem is havin to retard the dizzy so far to get it to the right spot, now keep in mind i had the same problem with the sr20de the car had in it previously (same dizzy)

the timing was extremely high, an it was only set in the middle.. im gussin 25 to 30 degrees btdc.. the engine was really noisey.. idled high..

right now the car is idling right where it should, no more loud engine.. an the car is way more driveable an peppier..


when i say loud engine i mean like a combo of lifter sound + leaky header... i thought the header gasket an motor mounts was the problem... but now that i lowerd the timing the noise is gone an it sounds like a normal engine.. so im thinkin it was knocking its brains out


so i really dont think its the pulley because if it was the engine would be very very retarded right now (literally) an would run like dog crap, but instead its the opposite..

i will take pics tonight.. or atleast i'll try..

Originally Posted by Benito
I've got a spare B13 dizzy chopped for VE if you need one to play with.


hell ya ben that would be awesome, i can get those parts you needed also, name brand an everything!
2010-07-26 21:01:17
#12
You sure you guys are putting it in timing mode correctly?
Worth to check it this way one more time.

Even with the chipped ECU / consult it would help to follow the FSM:

*Warm up engine under 1000rpms
...
*Run engine at 2000rpm in neutral (no load) for two minutes
*Rev engine two or three times under no load
*Idle for one more minute

AT THIS POINT, the FSM says to set the Consult Scanner to IGNITION TIMING ADJUST ***OR*** do it manually by turning off engine > disconnect TPS > start engine.

So the first steps before touching the IDLE ADJ are "officially" necessary.
2010-07-26 21:11:54
#13
take #1 spark plug out, put something apropiate down the sprak plug hole and rotate the crank and when its at tdc check that the markings are at 0
2010-07-26 21:23:06
#14
Originally Posted by gtswrx
You sure you guys are putting it in timing mode correctly?
Worth to check it this way one more time.

Even with the chipped ECU / consult it would help to follow the FSM:

*Warm up engine under 1000rpms
...
*Run engine at 2000rpm in neutral (no load) for two minutes
*Rev engine two or three times under no load
*Idle for one more minute

AT THIS POINT, the FSM says to set the Consult Scanner to IGNITION TIMING ADJUST ***OR*** do it manually by turning off engine > disconnect TPS > start engine.

So the first steps before touching the IDLE ADJ are "officially" necessary.


i didnt do exaclty as that says but i did start the car an let it warm up to 178* f before using conzult to put it into timing mode.. it was very noticeable when we put the car in timing mode lol

Originally Posted by macakin
take #1 spark plug out, put something apropiate down the sprak plug hole and rotate the crank and when its at tdc check that the markings are at 0


dude good advice A+ will do!
2010-07-26 21:41:48
#15
Hey I'm around today if you wanna ride over and bring those parts. The rest of the week I'm up in Chehalis.
2010-07-26 23:34:42
#16
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
so ya i had to super retard my gf's g20ve distributor today to get the timing to 15* almost all the way as far as it would go..

im pretty sure the pulleys fine because i can rev the car up an it goes right back to 15* an i can turn it off an put it back in timing mode via conzult an still 15* PLUS the car runs way better, engines quieter by far.. it was really noisy before an idled terribly.. if you shut the car off an turned it back on the idle would shoot up an down really bad an now it doesnt.. also conzult showed that it started up with the knock sensor goin off 6 times, i reset it an it didnt do it again after i lowerd the timing..

so why would i have to turn the distributor so far to get it to 15*? it must have been t 25-30*

thanks!



How are your reading the timing, i.e. with a timing light pointed at the crank pulley or from the consult?

Both are two differnt things. One is the actual timing and the other is reading from your timing map. Both need to be synced up.

Another thing, and very important, make sure the engine is below 1,000 rpm when checking, otherwise it will show a high timing. Above 1,000 rpm, the ecu will kick in the normal timing advancement.
2010-07-27 00:14:46
#17
Originally Posted by 5speed
How are your reading the timing, i.e. with a timing light pointed at the crank pulley or from the consult?

Both are two differnt things. One is the actual timing and the other is reading from your timing map. Both need to be synced up.

Another thing, and very important, make sure the engine is below 1,000 rpm when checking, otherwise it will show a high timing. Above 1,000 rpm, the ecu will kick in the normal timing advancement.


before i did anything the idle was at 945-950 after i retarded it the idles now at 825-850.

i used a timing light
2010-07-27 01:17:40
#18
blood is rite.....
2010-07-27 02:29:53
#19
what you guys arent understanding is the pully has nothin to do with the actual timing.. it can fool me into thinking the timing is off an show me wrong numbers.. which may be happening.. but i seriously doubt it..

i find that most cars when i set the timing 10-12* is usualy pretty close t dead center.. 17-19* there is only a sliver of space on the left side of the bolt.. right now its set to where there is only a sliver of space on the right side of the bolt.. i know thats not a good way to describe it but its the best thing i can come up with.. besides have ya ever tried to retard your timing almost ALL the way an tried drivin around? it usualy runs like dog poo, which in this case its helped ALOT...

so sure, maybe the marks on the pulley are off, but whats that have to do with the actual base timing? why would the marks on the pulley have anythng to do with the car runnin like shit with the distributor set in the middle?

if you guys could come over an see what im seein you would be thinkin what im thinkin..


im gonna pull the #1 plug an stick somethin in there an see where the marks on the pulley are..
2010-07-27 03:16:57
#20
Originally Posted by blo0d
You guys all have a spun crank pulley... The rubber has dry rotted and the two pieces have separated... Changing the pulley will set you back on the right paths


I do not have a spun crank pulley. I can put my G20 ecu or my original ECU back in the car and it will work correctly. Only this JWT ECU has this problem.

(and when I changed the cams, I made sure the crank pulley was correct and it was)
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