Originally Posted by
5speed Autech, I don’t really get you. Who are you trying to fool with that type of explanation for the chain marks being out of spec.
First, you are stubborn as hell still insisting the N1 pistons comes in .20” oversize when they don’t. They are .20 mm oversize, big difference.
Secondly, you just now found out your engine has more than 13:1 compression ratio, when most of us have been saying this for awhile. Remember your math came up with 11.8 for the N1 pistons.
Third, using the 16VE windage tray. Simply cranking the engine by hand would tell you the 2.0 crank can’t run with it.
Fourth, did not install the screw for the rocker arm rod.
Seriously, I question your mechanical ability.
I thought I help you out by giving you a hint. But all I hear is an excuse on your part. Like you meant to do that, please. Why go to the trouble of putting the marks close to the stock position if you have a special method?
Finding piston tdc is useless by itself when it comes to cam timing. You have to know both the cam lift and the piston relative position in order to know the actual cam timing.
The timing marks are there to help you. They put the cams in the general position relative to the crank for the correct cam timing. If you want to be more precise then you will need to get adjustable cam gears and degree wheel.
As for the possibility of chain jumping on the crank gear, Nissan has addressed this by providing a guide lip on the VE front cover so that won’t happen.
Dude you need to pipe the **** down and gett off your ****ing high horse.
The chain was not a brand new chain. I was not going to rely on an old shadow of paint figure on the bottom link which goes on the crank - comprendo? Easy to understand? Get it?!
The cam timing is spot on - i know this. I dont care for coloured links. If i hda cared for coloured links i would have lined them up.
First of all smartarse. Nissan quoted me and my jap fast tranlated it to 20
THOU oversized. The engine is bored to
0.25mm . Got it?
Secondly. The head was skimmed, and the deck was also skimmed. Out of hole height increased. The engine had previously been used before (i think andeman actually had this engine years ago) From then to now - somewhere in between - it has been slightly milled previously. My calculations that i was
ASKING IN DISCUSSION was based on a given motor - in factory spec. So jam that one up your pipehole too.
Thirdly. 16ve windage try did NOT come into contact during cranking by hand nor starter motor.
Fourthly. I didn not asemble the head nor performa any of the machine work or clearances on the head. I got that done by a friend who deals with this stuff every day. Yes - the screw was installed to stop the rocker pivot rod from sliding and spinning with engine harmonics
Fithly. You are smoking too much crack 5 speed - or i think one of your sliders is jamming. TDC is TDC. You cant get much more than TDC. Since you appear to be stroking your ego - with yoru knowledge you SHOULD realise that a timing CHAIN is far different from a timing belt setup. Irrelevant if the crank is 0.20 mm below or above TDC in the stroke - the timing chain will only link in one position. However just as has been said further on - you check once, check twice, check a thrid time and guess what! I checked a fourth time. I know what im doing and TDC is where it was at. I dont have a need to or want to go for cam gears yet to fine tune that exact enth of a HP out of my engie yet.