Originally Posted by NissanEgg
^^^THIS^^^^
Also of note, when OAD and one-way clutch alternators go bad they act as solid pulleys and exhibit the same noise and belt flutter. That is one way to diagnose a weird noise coming from your engine bay. Another way to tell is rev up the engine really high and shut it off while rpms are still high. If you don't hear a loud whine from the alternator as it spins down to a stop for a few seconds after engine stops then the OAD/one-way clutch is bad also.
^^^THIS^^^^
Also of note, when OAD and one-way clutch alternators go bad they act as solid pulleys and exhibit the same noise and belt flutter. That is one way to diagnose a weird noise coming from your engine bay. Another way to tell is rev up the engine really high and shut it off while rpms are still high. If you don't hear a loud whine from the alternator as it spins down to a stop for a few seconds after engine stops then the OAD/one-way clutch is bad also.
Good info to know. I'm actually going to be be checking out my B15's QR25 alternator when I get some time, now that I know it has this type of alternator, and try to do some measurements without taking it off, and see what it might take to bolt up. I know that the lower mount piece is shorter than the B13's, it would be easy enough to grind it down to fit, as long as the upper pivot point can work. My only other concern is the output post is further forward, which puts it more towards the fan shroud. As long as that clears, it would actually be a plus as those wires are now further away from the header.
I'm thinking that a clutch type pulley would actually be a benefit on a track car where you are constantly changing RPMs.
Back on the topic of 1 wire alternators... The common GM ones that I've been coming across are by and large lower output than what we have. On older cars, that worked OK. But I don't think I can afford to go with a lower output, especially since the radiator fans I'm putting on are going to draw more power when they are running than stock, add headlights (for night races), and the amps add up fast.
I've done some googling on 1 wire regulators to see what was available, and from that checked what alternators those went into. Most were for older series or lower amperage alternators, and none that I saw looked even close to being able to fit.
I figured this was a long shot, but everything seems to be a dead end short of paying big $$ to find a suitable racing alternator or have one modified by a rebuilder, assuming they can even handle that task since there doesn't seem to be that many parts available for models that fit our cars easily.
So now I'm back to figuring out how to best deal with the sense line for the alternator, which would probably best be a topic for another thread.