Thread: Battery Relocation

Yeah, I am a visual-learner and I would like to see how you actually have it set up if you don't mind...

I really try hard not to get into the details of how my shit is all hooked up. It is way more complicated than most people want or need. If you just want to move your battery to the trunk and don't need to worry about a kill switch (and disabling the alternator) or audio stuff then it can be done MUCH simpler, as I've described earlier in the thread.

Let me get dressed and go out and take a pic or two.

Thanks for the effort, I appreciate it! I already have my battery in the trunk, but the positive cable goes straight from the battery terminal to the original battery tray, where the cable is connected to all the original things on the battery terminal in the engine bay via a large bolt. I want to clean all of that up with a distribution block like you did, and have some space to run accessories like a powered sub, etc.

Here's where the battery tray up front used to be. You could do a much better job than me with placement. I was being a newb with this.

The red wire comes from the battery terminal. It goes into the pass-through distribution block and then on to the starter. That's the factory starter wire right there. The thick mamajama.



The other three wires are for the alternator (two of them) and then for the main fuse box. If you look at your battery terminal under the hood, those should be all of the wires you're dealing with on the positive side. The thick-ass starter wire, two for the alternator, and one for the main fuse box. You'll notice I've completely removed my fuse-able link. I've never liked those things. =/

Here's a close-up of the distribution block.


This shows what I did with the engine-to-chassis ground that normally continues on up to the negative battery terminal. I just put some 4ga wire from the thermostat housing to the stock grounding location. (I have other engine-to-chassis grounds elsewhere).


And here's what the whole situation looks like with the giant cone filter removed so you can see. Ignore how cluttered and lame it all looks.

Let me know if I can put my filter back on, or if you need more pics of that area.

Perfect, throw your filter back on and thank you very much sir!

ben youve just connviced me to do this over the winter now...ill add it to my list.thank you



buying this
now
Amazon.com: DB Link NGB04 0 AWG In/ (6) 4 AWG Out Distribution Ground Block with Clear Heat Resistant Plastic Housing: Car Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/5112xQgPyxL.@@AMEPARAM@@5112xQgPyxL

just bouhgt it.

@dganic23 this thread is informative for you.

hello guys,

I just had relocate my battery at the trunk... and I line up a 2 wires 1 for positive and 1 for negative... going to engine bay.... now after i wire up.. i notice that my afr had change. when i had a test drive my afr got change around 16-18 on idle. and when i'm crusing is around 14 to 15 afr... just wondering if it's normal? that i absorb more air so maybe that is why it change?

You should not be running the ground from the battery all the way to the engine bay. That is madness.
As for your AFR gauge reading differently, I'm not surprised. They are sensitive to how much voltage they get, and that can vary widely based on how your power and grounds are. Right now it sounds like your grounding is way too long, regardless.