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Thread: Battery Relocation

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Posts: 11-20 of 34
2011-06-15 04:14:48
#11
Blair - I bought one of his kits without wire (breaker, connectors, etc) and never used it. If your interested I'll see if I can find it in the garage.

Joe
2011-06-15 07:09:02
#12
Originally Posted by BenFenner

Simple hardware to mount and secure the stock battery tray in the trunk.


Things get slightly more complicated if you're also doing amplifiers/capacitors and other audio stuff, or if you're going to do an external kill switch.


Most tracks require a closed battery box and the external certified kill switch. Thats why I moved mine back to the front, screw all that noise.
2011-06-15 09:10:10
#13
I just went to my local electrical wholesalers and ordered some 25mm square panel flex and some lugs. Not sure what that works out in AWG though cheapest option and guaranteed good quality cable

Sent from my X10i using my penis
2011-06-15 12:43:54
#14
Originally Posted by Will
Most tracks require a closed battery box and the external certified kill switch. Thats why I moved mine back to the front, screw all that noise.
Closed battery boxes are for lead-acid batteries. Dry cells should be able to pass without. I say should...

External kill switch is obviously not for everyone.
2011-06-15 13:37:18
#15
Originally Posted by wes
Just buy good quality OFC copper wiring. Nothing special needed. Stinger brand is good and can likely be found on Ebay for cheap enough....

Cool, I'll look into that. Thanks

Originally Posted by happynole
Blair - I bought one of his kits without wire (breaker, connectors, etc) and never used it. If your interested I'll see if I can find it in the garage.

Joe

Sent you a PM!

Originally Posted by Will
Most tracks require a closed battery box and the external certified kill switch. Thats why I moved mine back to the front, screw all that noise.

I need to move mine so I can run all my air to water intercooler goodies under the hood.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
Closed battery boxes are for lead-acid batteries. Dry cells should be able to pass without. I say should...

External kill switch is obviously not for everyone.

Yea. Not trying to draw un-needed attention to myself with a kill switch.
2011-12-23 16:47:10
#16
I have some leftover 4/0 DC cable from some work we did replacing batteries at a site.. talk about overkill..

I am thinking of a busbar like this:
Grounding Busbars | Chatsworth Products, Inc.
2011-12-23 17:30:26
#17
Hey what is the "busbar" for? I never did a batt relocation but i want to pretty soon. Im gonna look for a follow up on it now but was just kinda curious
2011-12-23 18:14:58
#18
Originally Posted by sugarwaterpurpl
Hey what is the "busbar" for? I never did a batt relocation but i want to pretty soon. Im gonna look for a follow up on it now but was just kinda curious


that's must going over the top, it's taking the place of a terminal board for me..
2011-12-23 19:09:43
#19
Originally Posted by BenFenner
I just piece all the bits together myself.

I bought wire and maybe a distribution block from here: Parts Express: the #1 source for audio, video & speaker building components
Although here is maybe a better place for wire and stuff: IT Managed Services-South Jersey-Philadelphia | waytek.com

You need these things from various places.
One dry cell battery.
16-20' of gauge 4 or thicker wire for the positive wire.
4' of gauge 4 or thicker wire for the ground wire.
A grounding terminal.
Two battery terminals or reuse your old ones if suitable.
One (gauge appropriate) pass-through distribution block. (Image 1, 2)
Simple hardware to mount and secure the stock battery tray in the trunk.


Things get slightly more complicated if you're also doing amplifiers/capacitors and other audio stuff, or if you're going to do an external kill switch.


Ben - Could you post up pics of your setup? I'm especially curious about the distribution block, that is an addition to my system that I really need to put in.
2011-12-23 20:51:20
#20
Are the linked pics of the distribution block not good enough?

You want pics of the distribution block actually installed?

My setup also includes a remote cut-off switch (with 80-amp solenoid to cut the alternator power feed too) and distribution blocks for two amplifiers and a capacitor so it's way more complicated than most people would have.
The only decent pics I have right now are these.



Both of the 4ga black wires and the black 8ga wire go to the chassis ground (through the kill switch). (A 4ga black wire comes from an audio distribution block and also grounds to the negative battery terminal through the chassis side of the kill switch.)
One of the 4ga red wires goes to a distribution block for the audio stuff. The other red 4ga wire goes way up front, throught a grommet in the firewall, near the old battery box location where it enters a pass-through distribution block. The thick (4ga?) wire from the starter connects to the other end of that distribution block. The smaller 8-10ga wires from the alternator and fusebox and such connect to the side of the pass-through distribution block in the available spots.

Here are the distribution blocks for the audio, and one of the amps, and the capacitor.



Here's the kill switch. You'll notice the 16ga speaker wire that goes way up front by the alternator where it controls the 80-amp solenoid up there.






Also, here's a schematic I did way back before I did the install that describes exactly how it all works except the damn distribution block part up in the engine bay that you asked about. =/

Last edited by BenFenner on 2013-07-01 at 19-07-59.
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