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Thread: Good circumstances but what path to take to rid nervousness from a sr20 while having another running one that isn't nervous.

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Posts: 21-26 of 26
2019-12-07 18:32:33
#21
Yes, I somehow didn't click send or something but I replied to you now. Luckily I have a copy and paste function that has a history. I am worried about the combination of symptoms I have though.

I really would like to learn where all the vacuum resides on a Sr20.
2019-12-08 07:09:15
#22
Well after searching the internet and taking fsm by hand I stumbled upon a page with a drawing of the vacuum system. I wonder, is that all of the vacuum system I have to worry about?



That ain't hard and I will check today but what I don't understand is why is pinching the PCV hose a good way of testing things then? I reckon that hose as a vacuum hose but I also am aware I am a sensor guy and know next to nothing about hoses and where those are for and I am worried about reading on the internet that some hoses that might be a culprit for driveabillity issues are that hard to reach on a Sr20 powered egg that it is better to replace them engine out.

But then again the fsm says this is vacuum and this is easy to check. Who is right here, or might I be mixing things up and are other hoses non vacuum but still need a check for cracks as a possible cause for driveabillity issues?
2019-12-09 17:31:01
#23
Dominion.

I somehow overlooked that EF & EC page 368. While I still can not believe that image holds all vacuum on a lowport Sr20 or that other tubing can't be responsible for the issues I have with my engine I somehow overlooked a darn straight thing.

Ten years ago I looked for obvious tubing that are hard and have those Nissan clamps. Everything I could replace nicely stock looking I replaced but I missed that little hose on the fpr.

That hose looked good from a distance but by the fsm's drawing I decided to replace it anyway.

I still do not know what that hose is doing but what I didn't check was putting a finger on the other end an blow it on the other side. It did everything besides whistling dixie.

Now my issues shrank about 80 percent.

Am after my issues still there, in low power daily driving it still drives like ludicrously what on earth all complaints still there. Will rewrite (and fix the other hoses, no time for that this wekeend), but happy already with rust-nx being donor, finding a not so good injector being replaced by something else that is used is a big win for me.

After other tubings,
One more tps swap for being sure
Besides this little surge after the -click- engine shutted of too early
Other vacuum hoses swapping.

Rust-nx is real ill now it bucks and bucks but not as bad what I was used to. But there is more to gain, I'm sure.

My main objectives are Small, small surge on the low end mild throttle. and Knowing that the throttle close signal has been sent but the engine still hangs up too early


2019-12-21 19:55:09
#24
If there is a place where are (older) Sr20, please let me know!
2019-12-27 17:42:13
#25
Another detour but this going to be vacuum leak I suppose. I learned that repairing stuff that actually isn't the culprit makes issues worse. My issues got worse. Hope to learn wtf. I am aware already idle-screw-stepper-motor-bi-metal-circuit-breaker set up going to be hard to digest or not solved theoretically at all
2020-01-04 15:53:19
#26
Originally Posted by 1fastser
Vacuum leak! That is what it sounds like. Might be a good time to start replacing vacuum lines. I'm in the process of doing this too...but i feel like i need to pull the intake for ease of access.


Yesh! While I also made rust-egg run well I was amazed it was done with used parts. And for this humming noise, it really is, but that hose on the valve cover, it was my culprit and I found it by test driving and not as much air leak test but I should!

Here is the malefactor.

Happy!
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