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Thread: How To: Fix your leaking B13 distributor

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Posts: 101-110 of 127
2014-03-17 03:26:54
#101
first post updated...
2014-03-26 21:26:47
#102
Anyone have extras? I guess I should just call Greg V and get all of it at once. Also, does anyone have a spare distributor they want to sell me? I'd like to take my time and run another distributor in the mean time.
2014-03-26 22:41:04
#103
Originally Posted by Will
... Also, does anyone have a spare distributor they want to sell me? I'd like to take my time and run another distributor in the mean time.


That was my plan, to have a spare, but when I couldn't source one I just went at it. It's really not that difficult...

- Take your time.
- Note position of distributor housing and rotor with a scribe and/or magic marker.
- Measure how far the shaft protrudes from the bottom of the distributor before removing it so you know when it's all the way back in.
- Keep track of how things come apart.
- Thread a screw or bolt into the top of the shaft to pound on. DO NOT pound directly on the shaft.
- Be careful digging out the old internal seal.

I used MAF sensor cleaner to remove the oil from everything.
2014-03-28 00:24:04
#104
Originally Posted by SE-RMonkey
Originally Posted by Will
... Also, does anyone have a spare distributor they want to sell me? I'd like to take my time and run another distributor in the mean time.


That was my plan, to have a spare, but when I couldn't source one I just went at it. It's really not that difficult...

- Take your time.
- Note position of distributor housing and rotor with a scribe and/or magic marker.
- Measure how far the shaft protrudes from the bottom of the distributor before removing it so you know when it's all the way back in.
- Keep track of how things come apart.
- Thread a screw or bolt into the top of the shaft to pound on. DO NOT pound directly on the shaft.
- Be careful digging out the old internal seal.

I used MAF sensor cleaner to remove the oil from everything.


Thanks for the tips! I tried cleaning my old one with electronics cleaner and ruined it somehow, and I can't really afford to be without the NX for even a day or two. My spark seems to be getting shitty, but I think I just sourced a spare.

Is the bearing really worth doing? I feel like mine is fine, and I sometimes find bearings are better just left alone.
2014-03-28 12:01:26
#105
Originally Posted by Will
Thanks for the tips! I tried cleaning my old one with electronics cleaner and ruined it somehow, and I can't really afford to be without the NX for even a day or two. My spark seems to be getting shitty, but I think I just sourced a spare.

Is the bearing really worth doing? I feel like mine is fine, and I sometimes find bearings are better just left alone.


IMO the bearing is worth doing since you'll have it apart and it must be removed in order to get to the seal, PLUS it's cheap.

I believe most electronics "cleaners" contain lubricant, the "tuner cleaner" Radio Shack sells is a culprit. It's a formula from the dark ages designed to clean/lube scratchy volume pots, tone controls and tuner mechanics back when consumer electronics actually had knobs you had to turn by hand.

MAF sensor cleaner dissolves the oil and dries clean, similar to brake cleaner but I don't think it's as harsh.
Last edited by SE-RMonkey on 2014-03-28 at 12-05-21.
2014-03-28 14:43:47
#106
Originally Posted by SE-RMonkey
Originally Posted by Will
Thanks for the tips! I tried cleaning my old one with electronics cleaner and ruined it somehow, and I can't really afford to be without the NX for even a day or two. My spark seems to be getting shitty, but I think I just sourced a spare.

Is the bearing really worth doing? I feel like mine is fine, and I sometimes find bearings are better just left alone.


IMO the bearing is worth doing since you'll have it apart and it must be removed in order to get to the seal, PLUS it's cheap.

I believe most electronics "cleaners" contain lubricant, the "tuner cleaner" Radio Shack sells is a culprit. It's a formula from the dark ages designed to clean/lube scratchy volume pots, tone controls and tuner mechanics back when consumer electronics actually had knobs you had to turn by hand.

MAF sensor cleaner dissolves the oil and dries clean, similar to brake cleaner but I don't think it's as harsh.


Ah, I forgot the bearing had to come out, definitely worth changing in that case.

I think I used this stuff:

But I might have just used brake clean, it's been a while.

Does Greg V carry the bearing, or just all the seals? I've managed to purchase two distributors in the last 24 hours, so now I'll always have a spare
2014-09-14 21:39:23
#107
im in need of some help. im attempting this fix, but the inner seal (ones in bag from first pic) is not sitting flush. so new bearing not sitting flush either. sits up 4-5mm higher. the original was brittle and broke up on removal so cant compare them. any advice?
the part number on my distributor housing is 22100 53j01. the housing in this write up appears to end with 53j02, cant see it that well. that have anything to do with it? thanks
2014-09-15 12:59:37
#108
Did you order the right thickness seal?
did you measure the depth available before trying to install the new seal?
2014-09-15 14:51:14
#109
sure didnt. jus ordered the same parts from the right up. was unaware that there are diff thickness seals. i rumaged thru all the stuff i had and did find a dizzy with the same part number as yours. will try that one when i get time later this week. where would i b able to see specs, thickness, part nmbrs for the dif thickness seals?
thanks
2014-09-15 19:34:43
#110
There have been 2 thickness successfully used that I know of so far, the 6.5mm and 7mm.

There is even a nissan part number for the seal floating around somewhere.

Are you sure you have a B13 dizzy and/or know what you are doing?
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