Thread: HOW: Most OBD II: Remove the Rear O2 Sensor

Lol I just don't want to see burning fireball sentras flying down the highway.

Hahahhahhahah good point

So the resistance on the heater wires needs to be 12.5ohms? Or does it just have to see a complete circuit? And also why couldnt you just plug the hole in the cat and put all of the wiring inside the car by the ECU? This way there wouldnt be any chance of it falling down or getting snagged on anything.
I love the write up, very easy to follow but i want all the info before i do this.

Thanks Vadim.

There needs to be a resistance. Otherwise it will short. Resistance makes it think it is actually heating up the O2 sensor . At least 12.5 watt, I dunno if OHM's matter as much, but to be save use four 10 Watt 50 Ohm resistors like I did.

I did this because I didn't know how safe this object is, if it would over heat and burn my car down or not, safest to have it outside while testing. But I've been driving for weeks now and it's been ok, so now I will make a hole in my floor and just put it under the driver seat.

I don't want to put it by the ECU because then you will have to cut the wires that go the Sensor harness. If I ever need to use the Rear O2 sensor with a new cat, I would like to be able to just unplug this device, and plus the real sensor up. So makes it easier for the future

The higher the resistance the lower the current will be and the smaller the resistor you will need to use. At 12V 12.5W would be ~1.25ohm, and current would be ~12A's. Now in your case you have 12.5ohms you should be closer to ~1A which is a lot safer. So maybe a little higher resistance would keep things cooler. Try 2 50ohm resistors and you should get 1/2 the current. but still plenty of headroom at 20W capacity.

even better, as i finally will be able to get rid of the rusting b15 . this is just temporary for the time being, until i get a header and install the new o2 sensor into the midpipe. hopefully it works too, as i just want to pass emissions as it is, and get my gas milage back. i suppose this could work rather well essentially if i used a safc, but idk if the a/f reading would be off as im trying to trick the ecu that i have a o2 sensor.

Ah I guess so, not much of an electrical person, just can slice wires and solder them



Haha good point. I dunno how much this will affect MPG's all I know is, this will get the ECU out of the Open loop mode because the CEL will be gone

jegs.........., one of the largest performance parts distributers in the world......
[url]www.jegs.com[/url]

i was just wondering how they are illegal to sell if they can sell them

Couple sites said that it was illegal to sell them as of first of this year.

well, ive been driving the se around town today, and it doesnt seem to have that 'lag' from 1500-2000 anymore. so far so good. i havent taken it past 3k however yet. the bottom end is benefiting so far.

btw, i couldnt find the jegs thing you were talking about. link please