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Thread: How to: Make your own power steering high pressure hose

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Posts: 11-20 of 23
2014-09-16 01:54:33
#11
Summit sells it as ptfe tape, so I wonder where that information came from? Then again nowhere on the pkg does it say ptfe so.... Grain of salt
2014-09-16 03:05:30
#12
Skip Teflon on the angled or flare fittings, just use on pipe or straight fittings.
2014-09-16 04:08:13
#13
Teflon is Dupont's brand name for polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE for short.

Flared fittings are designed to seal metal to metal, so you should never use any sort of sealant on the flare, including PTFE. That said, it doesn't look like you actually have any on the flare portion of the fitting, and I often will use it on just the threads of a flare as an anti-seize that doesn't attract dirt. Especially when mixing aluminum and steel fittings.

Using it on the non-flared sides of the fittings makes sense, though you might want to look for higher (double) density tape, usually sold as "gas tape" or even the stuff that's red or pink (triple density).
2014-09-17 19:26:39
#14
see here:
8AN to M20x1.5 Adapter Fitting w/ Crush Washer- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

It appears copper or aluminum crush washers are a good idea for that little extra sealing peice of mind on the metric side of the adaptors.
2014-09-18 14:28:35
#15
What I've learned so far:
Aeroquip's website recommends their M12 fittings be torqued 19-23 ft lbs
Earls' tightening on -6an fittings is 'turn until it bottoms out, then mark the sides, then 1 to 1.5 turns'

In reality, after putting the fitting in the rack and the hose on the fitting, turning the hose 1 turn even, will strip the aluminum fitting on the rack side. I'm going to try to complete the other side anyways and start it up, because I have nothing to lose. If it pukes all over the place, I'll take the fitting out, and pray the fitting is stripped and not the rack threads, because that's a bastard of a place to get a wrench, let alone a drill and tap, and the metal bits not getting into the rack? eek.

That said, I think it appropriate to, on the rack side, tighten the adaptor on the hose, THEN put it into the rack.
Last edited by canx2k on 2014-09-18 at 14-30-12.
2014-09-19 12:47:31
#16
This website was helpful in showing how the assembly goes together, especially the brass fitting
Truck & SUV - Custom Truck News, Reviews, Videos - Truckin' Magazine
2014-09-19 17:42:57
#17
Another lesson learned, I would recommend getting one of these
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-220147/reviews/

as one of the ends. The bend in the tube is unnervingly close to the axle - sure it's $7 more, but worth the extra little peice of mind.
2014-09-19 22:09:56
#18
Hi guys. I made one like this for my P11 a while ago and it's working well so far. Thanks!
2014-09-30 13:44:45
#19
Alright so it's together, and isn't leaking, but the steering wheel is really hard to turn. Fluid is up to level too. I really am at a loss as to why it's working out the way it is. I wonder if, given the length of the previous hose, more fluid would make the pump work less? Not sure why it's so hard to crank unless moving...
2014-10-04 15:37:05
#20
Fixed. See this thread:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/75024-wtf-photo-journey.html
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