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Thread: DE+T DTC codes help with connecting IACV and EVAP Solenoid correctly

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Posts: 11-20 of 28
2013-10-17 16:29:13
#11
Originally Posted by shortcut10
Awesome I'll do this then, I was just afraid of boosting the IACV to oblivion and having an issue now that hose would go After the MAF correct? I ask because my MAF is set up about 1.5ft from the Throttle body with the BOV to atmosphere flanged off of the intercooler.


I have this concern as well, but I could be completely wrong here, but I think when the car is in boost those hoses are not seeing full boost I think. I think most of the air bypasses that opening and is getting sucked through the TB as it's the direction of least resistance to enter the engine. I could be totally wrong as I'm not a mechanical engineer, but it makes sense in my head :/ You'd think those hoses would be popping off at anything over 15psi. Maybe it's because it's a smaller hose.

Ya the bung should be after the MAF so metered air is entering the engine.
Last edited by gomba on 2013-10-17 at 16-41-01.
2013-10-17 17:15:54
#12
Originally Posted by gomba
Originally Posted by shortcut10
Awesome I'll do this then, I was just afraid of boosting the IACV to oblivion and having an issue now that hose would go After the MAF correct? I ask because my MAF is set up about 1.5ft from the Throttle body with the BOV to atmosphere flanged off of the intercooler.


I have this concern as well, but I could be completely wrong here, but I think when the car is in boost those hoses are not seeing full boost I think. I think most of the air bypasses that opening and is getting sucked through the TB as it's the direction of least resistance to enter the engine. I could be totally wrong as I'm not a mechanical engineer, but it makes sense in my head :/ You'd think those hoses would be popping off at anything over 15psi. Maybe it's because it's a smaller hose.

Ya the bung should be after the MAF so metered air is entering the engine.


Sweet, so I'll re-attach that hose to the intake pipe after the MAF, and take a step at a time from there, and then when @P10 Goodness has an available moment to post what he did with the EVAP solenoid I should be all set hopefully
2013-10-17 22:46:57
#13
To clear the P1400, you'll need the EGR purge control solenoid valve. It's a small solenoid with three vacuum lines and one two pin electrical connector. All you need is the electrical connector hooked up and that's what fixed it for me. I picked one up from JGY for $10 and passed CA Smog last month.
2013-10-17 23:45:46
#14
u can put a resistor in the egr 2 pin connector and that will act as if the egr valve was hooked up.

if you do a search you should be able to find out what size resistor.
then head to radio shack and buy a pack of resistors that come with the one u need.
2013-10-18 02:24:15
#15
Originally Posted by Doug
u can put a resistor in the egr 2 pin connector and that will act as if the egr valve was hooked up.

if you do a search you should be able to find out what size resistor.
then head to radio shack and buy a pack of resistors that come with the one u need.


The resistor hack is for a p1401, EGR temp
2013-10-18 04:42:48
#16
I'll get you that picture tomorrow for sure.
2013-10-18 14:20:20
#17
@root that's awkward, then maybe my purge solenoid is actually bad, I have it plugged in but the code it still popping, I'll clean it with some carb clean, and put voltage to it and see if it opens and closes properly. @P10 Goodness I appreciate it, again no rush, I have about 1 year before I need to pass emissions but just wanted to clear my things up sooner rather than later. And @Doug Fab I'll look into the resistor if my purge solenoid is actually bad
2013-10-18 16:53:45
#18
yea I was unsure what egr code he is throwing. but the only egr codes of gotten on my cars I was able to get rid of by installing a resistor.

so correction it doesn't go in place of egr valve but the temp sensor for the egr valve
2013-10-18 19:44:25
#19
Originally Posted by Doug
yea I was unsure what egr code he is throwing. but the only egr codes of gotten on my cars I was able to get rid of by installing a resistor.

so correction it doesn't go in place of egr valve but the temp sensor for the egr valve


Ahh ok, I don't get the code for the temp sensor, since mine is still bolted into the manifold, I'm just getting the P1400 for the Purge Solenoid Valve thingy lol, but as I mentioned my valve is probably bad so I'll run some tests on it this week and see if it's opening and closing before I come to the conclusion that it's faulty.
2013-10-22 19:52:36
#20
So I routed the hose from the inter-cooler pipe after the BOV and MAF, and now the car starts and idles perfect. Just gotta figure out the Solenoid which I haven't had time to remove and bench test yet... Will be updating as progress is made
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