Thread: Which exhaust gasket/washer would you use (Protech Mani/ Gasket or OEM, etc). Help

Hello all

I slowly developed an exhaust leak that after several bolts were tightened down (not by myself mind you...............), the leak went away, but only briefly. I decided to change out the Manifold to Exhaust Port gasket in light of this. Upon removal, several issues were immediately evident:

1) Some of the studs came out with the bolts upon removal (looking to order a brand new set of bolts, washes and studs if anyone has any recommendations)
2) The washers which were used were all not the same size (and to note: the two middle bolts/studs underneath the manifold in the center did not have any washers! But it seems it's because of how the log manifold is designed with not enough clearance to fit a washer?!?! Not certain. If anyone wants to shine some light on this, please go ahead)
3) The gasket itself (which I was told potentially had sections blown out) looks to be in good condition.

Now, here are several questions:

1) Which gasket would you use once bolted back up??
2) Which washers would you use (if for some odd reason, the OEM ones do not physically fit)?? And I assume washers go on all studs for even sealing, correct?

Below are pictures to aid in your vidual grasp of what I am referring to (no pics of mani to exhaust valves unfortunately )



















Thanks!

Don't reuse the old gasket. Use the newer gasket. As for the washers, if you can't use the OEM, any thick washer should work fine.

the washers are required for proper clamping load. you may want to look in to header bolts it you have the clearance to put them in. I have used the copper gasket you have pictured. I reused it several times with no leaks. the oem det gasket works fine as long as the flange on the log is straight. I am using a oem vet mls exhaust gasket on my current setup.

I use and reuse VET gaskets, they need to be ground down a little to not restrict flow on DE's though. Now roller rockers shipped with quasi VET gaskets, as in they are multilayer metal ones, but not as thick.

Plus VET one lets the turbo clear the block a bit better, I had to grind one of the water hex bolts down quite a bit already, yet it still wasn't fitting the disco housing and avenir mani. Added VET gasket and voila plenty of room .

Actually any flange head bolt will work as long as it has a surface area close to the stock washer or any other thick washer like the stock ones as said above. I had to use bolts on a couple manifolds just to install them easier.

Brent

@coach, @cortrim1 what bolts did you end up using??

I do know the studs are M 10x1.25 with circa 38mm length and the bolts are M10x1.25. Is this correct??

Also, I checked around for the ARP variant, and heard mixed reviews at best about these..........

And check this link out KA-T Studs. KA studs are compatible, correct? And it seems they are cross referenced with Toyota part numbers ( @Keo )!

ER Exhaust Manifold Studs - Nissan SR20DET & KA24DE - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
I know a few people with these that really like them, worth a shot. The stock original studs get brittle and weak over time and I don't like re-using them on a fresh turbo build.

Pretty sure they are M10x1.25 like you said.

Brent

Thanks Brent!

P.S Your radiator is about to be put to good use

Do it up!

I am ordering those Enjuku Racing studs myself for the latest build. I think I can run all studs with the manifold I have now. On my old EL SST manifold I couldn't get the manifold on without using two bolts on the lower two middle holes.

My issue exactly! I just bought some head flange bolts (and nuts for stud removal) from Home Depot. I will post pictures in a few and let me know if you think they may work out.