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Thread: Dumping fuel wet plugs

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Posts: 1-10 of 29
2012-12-17 00:46:36
#1
Dumping fuel wet plugs
Hey guys im having a hard time get my car running properly. Whenever i try to start up it cranks but very rarely turns over. It smells like fuel and the tops of the pistons are wet as well as the spark plugs. I got it started a few times but once i turn it off and try to turn it over again its a no go as the plugs are soaked.

My setup is as follows:
bluebird engine
sidefeed 555 cc injectors
n62 maf blow through
nismo adjustable fpr

My tune is a basic jk tuning tune for the above listed. Im getting a multi-tester and an inline fuel pressure gauge to get some readings. Please bare with me as i dont have much experience using the multi tester and would really appreciate any help you guys could give me.
2012-12-17 01:03:20
#2
check your injector o rings
2012-12-17 01:13:07
#3
Fuel pressure too high
Maf housing too large
cranking p/w wrong
ignition timing set wrong

Have you played with the cams at all? Verify you're not 180 out if that's a possibility.
Last edited by nsusammyeb on 2012-12-17 at 01-17-38.
2012-12-17 14:27:18
#4
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
check your injector o rings

I had my rail lifted off the manifold and i had someone crank it so i could see if they were dripping or spraying. All four sprayed clean but i dont think all four of them should be spraying at once right?

Originally Posted by nsusammyeb
Fuel pressure too high
Maf housing too large
cranking p/w wrong
ignition timing set wrong

Have you played with the cams at all? Verify you're not 180 out if that's a possibility.


What should my FP be reading at? I had JK chip it at 3 bar just to get it running then i was going to have it retuned on a dyno at 4 bar.

My tune is setup for an n62 maf, im running a fmic with 2.25 on the hot side and 2.5 on the cold side. The maf is a blow through and its more than 12 inches away from the TB.


I dont understand cranking p/w wrong. what does that mean.

Once i get it turned over again ill check the timing with a light if i can even get it into timing mode.

i have not played with the cams at all, i set them straight up intake at 12 oclock and exhaust at 10 oclock or vice versa. I was doing it exactly how the fsm says to. Ill take the valve cover off and snap a pic and post it.

Thanks for the info guys.
2012-12-17 16:33:10
#5
What should my FP be reading at? I had JK chip it at 3 bar just to get it running then i was going to have it retuned on a dyno at 4 bar.

My tune is setup for an n62 maf, im running a fmic with 2.25 on the hot side and 2.5 on the cold side. The maf is a blow through and its more than 12 inches away from the TB.


I dont understand cranking p/w wrong. what does that mean.

Once i get it turned over again ill check the timing with a light if i can even get it into timing mode.

i have not played with the cams at all, i set them straight up intake at 12 oclock and exhaust at 10 oclock or vice versa. I was doing it exactly how the fsm says to. Ill take the valve cover off and snap a pic and post it.

Thanks for the info guys.


Try moving the MAF over to draw through.

Does the check engine light go out when you crank the car over or does it stay solid?

We can try another set of chips, but without seeing the car in person or taking it to a tuner we are just shooting in the dark.
Last edited by JKTUNING on 2012-12-17 at 16-33-22.
2012-12-17 19:42:52
#6
Originally Posted by JKTUNING
What should my FP be reading at? I had JK chip it at 3 bar just to get it running then i was going to have it retuned on a dyno at 4 bar.

My tune is setup for an n62 maf, im running a fmic with 2.25 on the hot side and 2.5 on the cold side. The maf is a blow through and its more than 12 inches away from the TB.


I dont understand cranking p/w wrong. what does that mean.

Once i get it turned over again ill check the timing with a light if i can even get it into timing mode.

i have not played with the cams at all, i set them straight up intake at 12 oclock and exhaust at 10 oclock or vice versa. I was doing it exactly how the fsm says to. Ill take the valve cover off and snap a pic and post it.

Thanks for the info guys.


Try moving the MAF over to draw through.

Does the check engine light go out when you crank the car over or does it stay solid?

We can try another set of chips, but without seeing the car in person or taking it to a tuner we are just shooting in the dark.


The check engine doesnt stay on when i do get it cranked over. I dont think its the tune. I will try a draw through setup and see how that does.
2012-12-18 01:20:32
#7
draw through wont change anything

even if the chips were in wrong the car would still run and turn over but just be stupid rich. Get a fuel gauge see what its priming at and go from there. worse comes to worse go back to stock in/maf/ecu to see if you can rule out other things
2012-12-18 01:54:00
#8
plug wires backwards? You are getting fire right? Even if your fuel pressure was too high it would run, just really rough and smokey. My money is on an ignition problem w/o seeing the car.
2012-12-18 02:55:08
#9
Originally Posted by morgans432
draw through wont change anything


you would be surprised what kind of issues blow through can cause.
2012-12-18 03:00:29
#10
Originally Posted by morgans432
draw through wont change anything even if the chips were in wrong the car would still run and turn over but just be stupid rich. Get a fuel gauge see what its priming at and go from there. worse comes to worse go back to stock in/maf/ecu to see if you can rule out other things


wouldnt going draw through be inline with going back to stock setup?

Originally Posted by nsusammyeb
plug wires backwards? You are getting fire right? Even if your fuel pressure was too high it would run, just really rough and smokey. My money is on an ignition problem w/o seeing the car.


Im getting spark because i started it up it was just running really rich and once i shut it off it didnt want to start again. How would i test the voltage or test to see if all the ignition parts are working in order?
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