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Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

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Posts: 211-220 of 220
2017-06-25 23:33:29
#211
Originally Posted by Kyle
You guys are beam-Beasts!

Thanks! Trying a ting. The panhard mod completely changes the character and I forget that it is a bean behind there.
2017-06-25 23:40:25
#212
Originally Posted by Vadim
Took some measurements today of my latest UCA bracket caster mod, and going from stock holes to new ones gained me 0.55* of caster. So you should definitely do this mod too along with the lower drilled UCA attachment points.



so I adjusted the lower control arms to 15". Did not take any measurments before I changed it but I would say it is around 3/8" shorter. Also drilled the uca mount to lower the mount point for the uca only for now. Initial camber is -2.1 which is great and steering feels a lot more responsive as well. Also got 255 nankang ns2r all around so we will see how it does next event coming this weekend.
2017-07-20 13:34:55
#213
Originally Posted by Vadim
Hmm your making me reconsider messing with the LCA. I noticed a slight increase in bump steer doing the 10mm shorter UCA's, but it's very minor so I'm not worried about it. But more violent bump steer is not good for tire wear or racing in general (especially on my awful autocross surfaces).


Just wanted to update you in regards to the bump steer. I found out that I had a bad rear hub bearing on the left side which was causing my car to follow the road. Replaced it and now i dont notice much bump steer now, would say it is about the same as before.
2017-07-20 13:40:35
#214
Nice! That's great to hear. Was the bearing making noise or did it have play? Mine are not making noise, but I have measured enough runout that makes me think they are going too. With Toe plates my rear toe will vary +/- 1/8", which is kind of crazy, but not bad enough to make me wanna pay $200.
2017-07-20 15:05:31
#215
Originally Posted by Vadim
Nice! That's great to hear. Was the bearing making noise or did it have play? Mine are not making noise, but I have measured enough runout that makes me think they are going too. With Toe plates my rear toe will vary +/- 1/8", which is kind of crazy, but not bad enough to make me wanna pay $200.


It made no noise what so ever and movement was actually really bad. what gave it away was i stated to hear a click when applying the brakes, so i went to inspect the pads(or shoes in my case) and saw the hub moving about when taking the brakes apart. I never noticed the movement before because when working on the rears the had brake is always engaged and would hold the hub in place.
2017-07-20 20:44:24
#216
Haha I can attest to that, handbrake is usually up when I'm working in the rear too.

I wonder if I could just press my hub back in then, since bearing doesn't seem shot.
2017-07-21 13:57:19
#217
With the stickier tires the hubs will wear down faster so that might not work. just my 2 cents but still worth a try.
2019-10-02 09:43:12
#218
Figured i would update this a bit, still working on the old lady. Cut the front radiator support and made my own with some tubing. lighter and stronger. win win.


I also cut off the rear LCA bushing and replaced with a spherical joint. This is the first test setup with way too much anti lift, I have since added a spacer to the bracket and moved the bearing on top. i also have multiple holes to adjust caster.
not shown here but i also got spherical out tie rods and drilled the hub for a straight thru bolts. One thing to note is when I did the out tie rods with the UCA inner mount redrilled mounting holes, it had way to much camber gain for my car at least and car was all over the road. Change back to stock location with UCA and boom, works real good.

2019-10-02 15:17:01
#219
Thats awesome! How much caster and camber are you running currently? I've also been playing with geometry... these cars really want more caster.
2019-10-09 12:57:10
#220
Originally Posted by Vadim
Thats awesome! How much caster and camber are you running currently? I've also been playing with geometry... these cars really want more caster.


I dont have any real way to measure caster, what do you do to measure it? Camber is currently -2* which is cool considering I changed back the mounting location for the UCA back to stock, before it was around 4*. Camber stays the same at 2* when turning the wheel all the way.



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