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Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

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Posts: 31-40 of 220
2012-11-21 02:45:01
#31
Gonna work on the car a bit this week. Going to swap the springs around and try it out. I might end up getting some 500 or 550 lb springs instead of the 800. just use the 600 in the rear. I may have some rubbing problems in the front which was one of the other reasons why I got the 600 lb.

Here is the vids I took inside the car: I did it mostly on low boost, 10 psi and hit the hi button when possible. not much but yea, placed like 5th overall. had some really good competition. 2 Mits Evo VIII, Honda eg civic(2nd place), Mits Evo III, Nissan Silvia S14(Teammate),p10 ve primera(teammate) and fully stripped Toyota Starlet(steet class winner), and some other nicely setup cars.
Any advice is always welcome
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2012-11-21 at 02-52-11.
2012-11-24 17:37:07
#32
I got to switch the springs around and I must say it feels way better.
I need to make the custom top hats for the rear as well because the spring does not sit flush on the oem top hat. So the rear is up in the air and the front is way low, assuming doggy style position.


This is the setup with the 600lb in front:


The front is at max height, and the rear is at max low. Not sure if I should get another 8" spring or get the 7" 500lb(I am leaning on this option).
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2012-11-24 at 18-03-42.
2012-11-24 20:43:29
#33
Originally Posted by cayman_primera
I got to switch the springs around and I must say it feels way better.
I need to make the custom top hats for the rear as well because the spring does not sit flush on the oem top hat. So the rear is up in the air and the front is way low, assuming doggy style position.


This is the setup with the 600lb in front:


The front is at max height, and the rear is at max low. Not sure if I should get another 8" spring or get the 7" 500lb(I am leaning on this option).


The spring on the right is only half way up... I assume that's the front spring? You need a spacer between the shaft lip and the top mount to get the perch all the way up. Washers work in a pinch.
2012-11-26 22:20:12
#34
that the picture of the old setup with the front on the left and the rears on the right. I will be making some top hats tomorrow for the rears. But basically you can see how tall the 8" spring is and with the 7" on the rears it is a bit lower than mid way so with the 8" in the rear the spring perch is at the very bottom and is high. parked next to a stock p11 and it was the same height!!

I also fixed the front being too low. CV Joint was clunking during acceleration. Used the golden spacer that comes with the Teins SS. and placed it under my custom top hat for an added inch. now it is riding a bit high at the same setting on the perches but now I have some good adjustment on the front.
This is the piece I am talking about:

and placed it here with the tein(black) spring:
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2012-11-26 at 22-32-28.
2012-11-29 01:06:27
#35
Made these yesterday:


Now with around 4 threads left at the bottom it sits around 1/2" lower with another 1" to go.
The steel plate is a little to heavy. might get some aluminum plates and make some new ones.

I am really liking the way it feels now. Turn in is quicker and need less steering input than before. I will be testing some different settings with the sway bars and ride height and see what works best. I might even try to see if I can get some cones and record some times to have some good data between setups.

I know now that sometimes what works good on the street does not mean it will work for auto cross.
Thanks for the help
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2012-11-29 at 01-37-01.
2013-03-29 00:41:21
#36
Just taught I would update you all on my current setup and the results.

From last year november/december I changed the springs so that the rears are now the 600 lb springs and the stock tein ss front spring.

After that I tackled the bushing/bearings control arms.

Replaced UCAs and the third link bearings with brand new pieces,
Change inner and outer tie rods
Installed stop tech performance pads
Mounted 255/40 17 Hankook RS3(I would recommend the RS3 for summer tires)
Installed rear trailing arm bushing with poly bushing(WOW!, really, wow)
Installed Godspeed racing radiator(wow is this thing big)
Fabbed up custom screamer pipe

The car now sits very evenly. and the rear end is very loose if you want it to be.

The Results? Well, last year I was always 3 to 5 seconds of first place finisher(eg civic with B18 Swap). Now on the very first event with the current changes I placed ahead of him and just shy from first place at a time of 82.856 seconds and mine which was 82.875. First place was the subaru in one of the videos above I was chasing.

All in all, the car really feels good. I am going to do more events as is to squeeze every ounce of performance and make slow changes.

Changes ahead are Aluminum Top Hats front and rear with spherical bearings and maybe 500 lb front springs. Below are some pictures:





2013-03-29 01:05:33
#37
@Vadim @Keo
2013-03-29 03:41:00
#38
Cool. Glad to hear the car is improving. :thumbsup:
2013-03-30 03:14:16
#39
Car has improved a lot. And the best part was mainly replacing worn out parts. No the rear seems to have more bit and I can possibly get better tires. But I need more events before I can be sure. Let me know of any ideas you all may have.

I will be trying to brace up the car some more for additional support and more weight reduction.
2013-04-28 23:15:37
#40
Got first place by 1.1 secs on a 60/70+ seconds dexterity course. My fastest time was in the mid 65s, the subaru guy came in second. they put a 360 in the middle of the course and my handbrakes don't work a damn. Also it is very clear that i need stickier tires in the back as it swings out on heavy braking around the cones so again i could not push the braking to the limit. But this feels good at how well the car performs at this point.

I got some pics i will be uploading soon
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