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Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

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Posts: 121-130 of 220
2016-04-06 21:30:30
#121
Have times from previous runs? Those are more important than the field spread because power to weight ratio wins an AWFUL lot of Autocross contests . . .
2016-04-07 14:46:19
#122
Originally Posted by Vadim
That's awesome! How big of a difference do you think the panhard alone was? I'm thinking about picking up the conversion again.


Panhard bar was the best mod so far, although short it is still great and the rear can go low until the tires rub the fender and still handle well. the front are a different story, but I plan to sort that out very soon with a diy extended ball joint with spherical bearings.
2016-04-07 14:50:43
#123
Originally Posted by Kyle
Have times from previous runs? Those are more important than the field spread because power to weight ratio wins an AWFUL lot of Autocross contests . . .


the auto-x course changes every event. I have never been up that far in the unlimited group. there are some very fast cars, including a fully stripped and stiched welded Toyota Starlet. I never had a better time than this vehicle regardless of who drove it.

The course was very tricky but i feel that i got into the rhythm and was able to get on the gas earlier than most.
My last and best run of the day. Tight course layout and low speeds. 40 to 50 mph tops.
Last edited by cayman_primera on 2016-04-07 at 15-08-16.
2016-04-07 20:16:00
#124
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

Panhard bar was the best mod so far, although short it is still great and the rear can go low until the tires rub the fender and still handle well. the front are a different story, but I plan to sort that out very soon with a diy extended ball joint with spherical bearings.


That's great to hear, years ago I build a panhard setup similar to yours, but I mounted it to the beam arm with my swaybar's U bracket. Needless to say it broke after a few turns . I've been thinking about rebuilding it but much beefier (mounting it on the beam this time). I just didn't know if it's worth the trouble. From the sounds of it it might be the single most important mod for our minivan beams.

I still would love to do a Watt's link, but keeping a low roll center is really hard and it would probably scrape on the roads I drive on daily...


How long are you front and rear? I don't think I'm having that many roll center issues up front but I'm only 1" lower then stock.
2016-04-07 20:32:45
#125
Originally Posted by Vadim
Originally Posted by cayman_primera

Panhard bar was the best mod so far, although short it is still great and the rear can go low until the tires rub the fender and still handle well. the front are a different story, but I plan to sort that out very soon with a diy extended ball joint with spherical bearings.


That's great to hear, years ago I build a panhard setup similar to yours, but I mounted it to the beam arm with my swaybar's U bracket. Needless to say it broke after a few turns . I've been thinking about rebuilding it but much beefier (mounting it on the beam this time). I just didn't know if it's worth the trouble. From the sounds of it it might be the single most important mod for our minivan beams.

I still would love to do a Watt's link, but keeping a low roll center is really hard and it would probably scrape on the roads I drive on daily...


How long are you front and rear? I don't think I'm having that many roll center issues up front but I'm only 1" lower then stock.


It hard to say how low my car is compared to stock but my front LCA does have an upward angle to them. I would guess 2 to 3 inches lower at the front. I will snap a PIC later for reference.

For the panhard bar, try to incorporate the oem mount on the beam if possible to the bracket. That is what i have done with a U bolt and have no problems so far. No sign of it shifting too.
2016-04-07 20:40:05
#126
Got any pics on how you mounted it on the stock location on the body? I inserted a 2x2 metal bar into the body attachment then bolted it in with two big bolts, just not sure if its sturdy enough (I'll see if I can get some pics uploaded tonight).

What you did on the beam is basically what I'm thinking of doing, just need to find the right sized U bracket.
2016-04-07 21:04:39
#127


I hope this image can help out, So behind the beam(or infront) the bracket extends all the way up and then angles towards the stock SRL mount. this helps with with shifting left and right on the beam. The U bracket helps to keep the pb mount from rotating and mostly only during right turns. the u bolts is 3"
2016-04-07 21:05:50
#128
Yup that makes sense and I understood that part, what I'm curious about is the left side (which attaches to the car body ).
2016-04-07 21:42:38
#129
Originally Posted by Vadim
Yup that makes sense and I understood that part, what I'm curious about is the left side (which attaches to the car body ).


Hope this helps, black is the bracket and reds are mounting locations. So there are a good amount of bolts holding it steady and a lot of triangulation.
2016-04-08 13:28:56
#130
AH dang, that was what I was afraid of. Changing of the course layout.

I know you are having fun and always making it better. THank you for continuing to update your thread with the great work and truly enjoyable results.
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