Thread: P11 Auto-X Setup help

Scott Russell link is now in the past. Did what I was contemplating for the longest time and used the existing points to install my panhard kit. so the rod is shorter than what 2j racing installs but the difference is HUGE!!!!!!!

Was looking around online at off road trucks/jeeps and muscle cars and was able to put together a kit with my trusty welder.
basically I took these two ides and put them together:
Lower the chassis pickup point by making something like this. Compared to this, I feel like I might of over engineered my piece but that's a good thing:



Then over on the beam I did this and a bit more:

I actually incorporated where the SRL compliant bushing mount into this piece so it is reinforced a bit more.

So basically I made a blot on kit as I did not want to weld on anything and it did not work well. Next step will be to weld the bracket to the beam.
Here is it all bolted up: btw, the bar looks like shit because I didn't give it enough time to dry.



It ends up being a bit longer than the SRL. With the 600lbs springs I feel it negates the fact that the bar is short so I don't feel much of a difference left to right but there is a huge difference. Rear grip is so nice now, where it felt like it would get loose it just keeps digging, such a weird feeling but nice at the same time. I also adjusted my rear sway bar to the softest setting so I got some adjustment left.

on an unrelated to suspension note, I also switched over to my stock manifold and a gt2871 turbo. the stock manifold gave me back my low end even with the slightly bigger than the S15 turbo. Basically out of boost performance is better and the transition feels smoother. Also change to a smaller core intercooler and mounted it upside down to have less piping:

Right Side piping around radiator
left side around radiator

Do you have the 600lbs pic, it's now gone. I'm trying to decide what spring rates to go with, and so far 600lbs sounds like a winner. How bad is it on the street through?



That's actually exactly how I was doing my panhard, I kind of ditched the project almost 2 years ago. Now am planning on picking it back up though. Where did you the over the beam attachment piece? Any size dimensions?

The other PIC was not hosted by me so the person must have moved or deleted it. Should have saved it! dang it. 600lb on the front feels pretty good, But my car is very harsh because of other factors, Spherical bearing top hats, I converted the bushings on the teins to use spherical bearings as well, and all the bracing i did to the front. But considering all of that it does well and is actually better when lower as it doesnt compress as much so I do not hit much when going over bumps, 600lb in the rear is another story.

The bracket for the panhard bar I made, I basically use some 90* angle steel and used a U clamp for a 3inch exhaust, but it is also barce elsewhere and the clamp does not see much of the forces involved. I couldn't be happier with the panhard. I do not feel any bad differences compared to the scotts russel link. Just way better turn in. My rear sway is on the softest setting and the car will still rotate fairly easy. go for it!

Found it, should be working now, let me know

Thank you very much for re-uploading it @cayman_primera

So your saying once you switched to 600f/600r from 400f/600r pounds the car started being a lot flatter? Do you have any pictures of the car post panhard (since roll center should have been lowered).

With panhard you did exactly what I was doing back in 2013 before I got tired of the car and almost sold it. Glad to see you got it working. I'll be picking the panhard deal back up soon myself, looking to do it from the stock SRL location on body and just need to mount it on the beam without much welding (I can weld, but like less permanent solutions).

@Vadim

Those two are without the panhard conversion, The auto-x thing has pretty much died and I have yet to have a chance to test on a auto-x setup. My setup is now very responsive and the rear is so tight now than I feel I need a bit more tire, maybe go up to 235/40 17 tires in the back or re-install my stock sway bar and weld some arms for adjustability.

With the panhard bar I fell I can do with a softer rear spring. maybe 500lb or even 450lb and that would make it a better ride. hmmmmm, gots me thinking now, the fron tein springs are 7k which is roughly 400lbs, maybe I should swap them and see how it feels now with the panhard....... for a street car only that sounds like a good setup, 400 to 500lbs.

I would say to do the panhard first if possible and then choose springs rates.

Yeah I'm aware those pics are without panhard, which in the second pic that's pretty darn impressive. The main reason for much stiffer rear springs is to prevent the beam from moving too much, because of how bind prone it is and because of the high roll center. If you go to panhard that solves that issue, and the front to rear difference doesn't need to be as high. I'm curious on why your car looks much flatter with stiffer front springs (600lbs = 10.74k). Maybe the motion ratio of P11 front is not closer to 1 after all.

I just installed my 8k-front/10k-rear Fortune Auto 500's, so far it's not too bad, not super duper uncomfortable, but does let you know that you have stiff springs. I need to get the car lowered more (right now taller then stock), then will be able let her loose .

The motion ratio is for sure not 1:1. I remember it to be .7:1 which seems about right as I can push the front down a lot easier than the rear. Everyone tells me my car turns flat but inside the car it feels soo different. Front roll is more apparent now that the panhard bar is in, also with the stiffer rates, the amount of rake you give the car changes the characteristics a lot more as well. So when you lower it and don't like it then lower or raise the rear to get it close to how you like. unless you got scales and balance the car.

I've heard people say .7 (Sarah Frost), .87 (guy on G20.net measured it) and 1:1 (Charles - Snickers).

I got the car lowered to be -1" front and back now. Took it for a spin and I it still feels like too much body roll, might have to get 10k springs for the front too...

Some math with my current 8k/10k setup

Front Motion Ratio: 1:1

Front: 438lbs, 2.22hz

Rear: 559lbs, 3.15hz

Rear 22% stiffer then front

Front to rear Frequency diff 70.30%



Front Motion Ratio: 0.7:1

Front: 215lbs, 1.55hz

Rear: 559lbs, 3.15hz

Rear 62% stiffer then front

Front to rear Frequency diff 49.25%



Front Motion Ratio: 0.87

Front: 332lbs, 1.93hz

Rear: 559lbs, 3.15hz

Rear 41% stiffer then front

Front to rear Frequency diff 61.20%

Some math with 10/10k setup:

Front Motion Ratio: 1:1

Front: 548lbs, 2.48hz

Rear: 559lbs, 3.15hz

Rear 2% stiffer then front

Front to rear Frequency diff 78.63%



Front Motion Ratio: 0.7:1

Front: 268lbs, 1.73hz

Rear: 559lbs, 3.15hz

Rear 52% stiffer then front

Front to rear Frequency diff 54.99%



Front Motion Ratio: 0.87

Front: 415lbs, 2.16hz

Rear: 559lbs, 3.15hz

Rear 28% stiffer then front

Front to rear Frequency diff 68.43%

As you can see knowing the motion ratio makes a huge difference.