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Thread: Road Race 2.0 all motor setup

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Posts: 1-10 of 29
2012-02-12 21:41:30
#1
Road Race 2.0 all motor setup
Hi all, i am new to the forum and have been reading up through the posts on ultimate all motor setups. I am coming from racing a K20 honda and currently building a Nissan SR20. I have yet to find a proper thread that talks about an all motor road race 2.0 setup. Power target has to be 240-250whp. Rules basicly allow all mods except for ITB or dry sump.

I went ahead and bought a SR20DET and a SR20VE. I plan to use the DET bottom end with the VE head. I am fairly confident of getting the bottom end sorted (except for pistons). The head on the other hand is totally new to me.

Questions i have:

1. Who is the best person/shop to go for head porting?
2. What cams should i be using? and what springs? (target RPM is 9000rpm)
3. Intake and headers we can fabricate and we are confident in that department due to R&D done with the K20 motors
4. Which pistons to use? We run 13:1 on the Hondas and something similar would be good (fuel is VP Q16)
5. Any merit in using a long rod setup similar to MotoIQ?

Most of the questions above might have been mentioned in various posts, but never together to make a all motor 2.0
2012-02-12 22:41:22
#2
what is the rationale of going DET lower half over the 20ve lower half?

peace
2012-02-12 22:43:41
#3
girdle?

16ve pistons and 2.0 rods make well over 13:1 comp ratio if i remember correctly
2012-02-12 23:41:43
#4
all of your info is in threads in the all motor section.

if you cant find it, post back up and ill steer you in the right direction.

im currently doing a built 2.1.

stratton.
2012-02-12 23:47:00
#5
I wouldn't run anything but lightweight forged pistons if it is a road racing setup. SR16 pistons are a good budget street setup but as far as racing goes, weight & strength are very important as it will see constant high rpm abuse. You can run 13:1 compression or even 14:1 with the fuel you are going to be using. Kelford 184c v3 are the best n/a cam out there right now and with good head porting & 13:1 or 14:1 compression you can achieve the numbers and powerband you are looking for. There are no off the shelf pistons above 12.5:1 so you are going to need a custom piston. Going with a longer rod will help hold power in the higher rpms along with make a few more hp up top. They should make piston speeds a little safer for the high rpm road racing you are going to be doing. A good header, which it seems like you will have no problem with, and a good intake manifold are the other key components to making good, high rpm power on the ve.
Drew
2012-02-12 23:57:09
#6
^That pretty much sums it up. I wouldn't even use anything from the DET. Use the VE crank. I would love to see some more long rod motors. You can do a basic build. CP 13:1, Manley rods, Stock crank, etc for the bottom half. Do some milding porting to the head, Kelford 184C cams, springs/retainers, for up top.

The main thing you will have to fight is the intake manifold. We have very limited room for a nice long runner manifold. I was considering cutting into the firewall and weld in some metal to allow me to get another 2'' of room for a long runner IM. As far as header, the specs for a 2.0 are all over. Very basic stepped 4-1 header will do fine with a small choke.

Thats the recipe for a roughly 220-230whp build that can see up to 9-9500rpm.
2012-02-13 01:12:45
#7
Yeah good luck, I feel like you might be a little depressed coming from the k motors lol. As far as I know I haven't seen anyone push over the 230whp mark on the 2.0, I'm sure I could be wrong. People outside the forum are probably doing it.

But for sure go with the keflord 184cs, with a good head port 300cfm is well within reach. The main restriction will definately be the intake. I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of build and numbers you come up with!
2012-02-13 01:28:17
#8
I don't build road race engines but there are teflon crank scrapers that hasn't been mentioned.

This guy did a really interesting and thorough build awhile back. He was on this forum too but I forgot his name. Anyway he really thought things out and documented well imo.

Sorry I guess he scrubbed out a lot of his stuff when this forum and the other one split but his info is still around somewhere.

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2012-02-13 09:02:59
#9
what is the rationale of going DET lower half over the 20ve lower half?


With our Honda's we have always run 8 counterweight cranks especially for high RPM use it is supposedly much easier on the bearings. I figure since both the K20A and SR20DET cranks weigh roughly the same approx 36lbs then there should be no reason (cross fingers) that i cant run the SR20DET bottom end to 9000rpm+

Kelford 184c v3 are the best n/a cam out there right now and with good head porting & 13:1 or 14:1 compression you can achieve the numbers and powerband you are looking for.


I know there are Kelford V1 & V2 but what are V3's? Do you mean what Kelford now advertise as 184D (Basically N1 big lobes and 20V small lobes)?

But for sure go with the keflord 184cs, with a good head port 300cfm is well within reach. The main restriction will definately be the intake. I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of build and numbers you come up with!


As per our K20's I would need the head to flow 300CFM + , I understand the VE head has potential.. Which company has done the R&D on the VE head for NA purposes? We used to deal with Portflow for the K20's and their porting was spot on! Also, we shouldnt have a problem with the intake as we can custom make one with the right length, diamter and taper easily (we usually test different sizes on the dyno).

all of your info is in threads in the all motor section. if you cant find it, post back up and ill steer you in the right direction.


I'll make sure i re-read the threads there, what i am finding is that no one really built a proper road race motor!!
2012-02-13 12:49:56
#10
Honestly no one has realy been that deep with the ve heads as far as I know. I don't know anyone doing any cutting/welding or cnc porting. Usually just a lot of cleanup and the heads are right around 300cfm @.5 lift. With 1mm over intake valves they can get that 300cfm at only .45 and 305@.5
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