Thread: consensus on dropping 16ve pistons into a unmachined block...

No one seemed to answer the mans question.

Straton just hone the block and drop them right in. You need to hone the block to make sure the rings seat properly.

No need to deck the block. I use fine grit sand paper on a 2x4 wood and clean the head and block.

I have a set of N1 pistons thay I just finished notching for oil squirters that I am sending out today to get swain tech coated to put into my 2L 20V for some xtra power.

I made 216 WHP previously. The changes will be N1 pistons, Kelford cams and ITBs. So I am hoping for 235-240. The ITBs coming around july.

A fresh hone will do wonders on ring sealing. If the block is in great condition and can still see the factory honing marks you would probably be fine dropping them in but why not have it honed by the machine shop, they probably charge next to nothing to do so.

Personally on all the motor builds ive done, i always see slightly better compression numbers with a fresh honed block vs dropping them into a good condition stock block that you can see the factory honing marks, compression being equal.

I would have a finish hone done. it should not cost more than $75 to have done.

Do it.

Either way we discussed you cant lose.

Dre, thank you this was the answer i was looking for. What kind of whp do u think i could be looking at ?



Good shit. I figure this is the cheapest and easiest route.

Call me later today when ur free.

Stratton.

I would say you should hone whenever your using new rings. And id suggest just buying the honing tool and do it your self. It will be cheaper then paying the machine shop to just hone that one block and it will be nice to have around. Just take your time and make sure you coordinate your drill speed so you don't get to shallow or steep cross hatches...

Ill let a machine shop do it. I want the block to be cleaned anyways.

16ve pistons- 240
Rings- 90
Bearings-200
90mm hg-260
clean block and head and hone- 200

990 in parts and machine work.

Not bad compared to my 12k dollar disaster lol.

Should be a solid high reving set up.

Stratton.

I grabbed a block and tore it down to find the walls looking clean and still saw the factory hone marks. Used the pistons I bought off you with a set of fresh rings from Greg V. ACL standards and used the 4CW crank and 2.0 rods. I did it more as a learning experience for myself along with some help from the CT boys. I took it easy for a while (didn't have the Kelfords yet) while running Rotella 15w40. Got the Kelfords and J and I hopped in and started winding it out to 9K up and down the highway while he worked the magic on the laptop.

If you can, go with a fresh hone and deck job. It will probably cost roughly 120-150$. Doesn't hurt and its extra insurance since your using a perfectly milled head and 260$ headgasket. Don't wanna tear it down due to it not sealing and now your out a set of rings and HG.

Either way, I think you'll be fine. Do some mileage on a base tune that J gives you and ride out easy. I didn't go above 4500. My last high comp we did a fresh hone and all. Started beating the piss out of it after 600-700 miles. Both high comp motors pegged the compression tester, lol. Gave a K bubble issues once I hooked. You'll be happy bro. 12 sec is very respectable for a street car.

Ok, my story is over. Lol

Ok so for someone with a stock VE fully bolted on N1's that wanted some more power at 86mm would be looking to spend around $400-$500 or so to get the bottom end right?

^ pretty much, just the cost of pistons, rings and while your in there might as well do bearings and of coarse a new head gasket.

although the more i look at this a 87mm piston is tempting.

reasons, blocks already at the machine shop, cost of aft pistons is only another 200 bucks and then just the cost of a bore wich is iirc 150ish.

so then if the motors already apart why not ... ugh. I just need to do something at this point.

But yes 16ve would be cheapest and easist route.

stratton.