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  1. #1
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    Default SR20VE Dyno: Stock Cams vs. SR16VE Cams



    Nothing earthshattering here, this is pretty much what is expected when switching to SR16 cams.

    Sorry for the HUGE graph, if someone can shrink it, please do so.

    Green line is SR20 with factory cams
    Blue line is SR20 with SR16VE cams
    Switch points: 4400 Intake; 4700 Exhaust

    Set Up:
    SR16 cams - Calum ECU with bin for VE with Cams (richened up a little with 17* base timing)
    SR20 Cams - JWT ECU at 15* base timing

    All - 2.5" VRS exhaust with cat, HS CAI, Fuji

    Runs were several years apart on the same car, corrected for temp, humidity, pressure.

    When I started the runs, I had the switch points at 5000/5400 but this left a 400 RPM lag in the curve. At one point, I had both cams set at 4500, and the dyno operator (a BMW racer) almost jumped out of the car in shock when the cams popped. He said he thought that the engine had blown.

    he tail pipe sniffer (data on graph) tracked my Innovate wide band very closely.

    I might lean out the mixture a little next time I'm at the dyno.

    Oh yea, for those that don't know, the Dyno Dynamics Dyno consistently reads 5-7% lower than many of the more commonly used dynos (e.g., Dyno Jet).
    Last edited by billc; 04-03-09 at 05:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    Bringing this back since I just got a set of SR16VE non N1 cams for my SR20VE

    I tought the 16VE's would perform better than this, torque curve is not what I was expecting
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  3. #3
    The Sand Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by billc View Post
    At one point, I had both cams set at 4500, and the dyno operator (a BMW racer) almost jumped out of the car in shock when the cams popped. He said he thought that the engine had blown.
    That made me lol
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  4. #4
    aka XxToKeSxX
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    That's not torque... I believe that is afr...
    Meeners | 1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | 1990 Mazda Miata | 2003 MZ 660 Street Moto | 2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | sr2o_deep Midwest

    Don't talk about it - be about it! Quit bull sh*ttin' and take it apart, measure it, put it back together, dyno it, and THEN post.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by XxToKeSxX View Post
    That's not torque... I believe that is afr...
    My bad, didn't notice the scale at the right :o
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  6. #6
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    now some cam gears and some N1 pistons
    NEOB11 SR20VE
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevo View Post
    Bringing this back since I just got a set of SR16VE non N1 cams for my SR20VE

    I tought the 16VE's would perform better than this, torque curve is not what I was expecting
    Well just going to the regular 16ve cams isn't going to be a huge gain, but it looks like more power could have been had by pulling fuel out and tuning the timing map. Sounds like he just used a stock 20ve bin and bumped the base timing to 17*
    95 200sx
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jer_760 View Post
    Well just going to the regular 16ve cams isn't going to be a huge gain, but it looks like more power could have been had by pulling fuel out and tuning the timing map. Sounds like he just used a stock 20ve bin and bumped the base timing to 17*
    I went with the 16VE since I'm runing 2.5" header/exhaust and I don't have plans of upgrading it to 3"

    I haven't installed the 16VE cams yet, I could even hold a couple of months and get N1's instead but if 16VEs straight up show gains I'd rather stick to them.

    I just don't wanna regret of going 16VE cams
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevo View Post
    I went with the 16VE since I'm runing 2.5" header/exhaust and I don't have plans of upgrading it to 3"

    I haven't installed the 16VE cams yet, I could even hold a couple of months and get N1's instead but if 16VEs straight up show gains I'd rather stick to them.

    I just don't wanna regret of going 16VE cams
    Well you will regret them lol. There is really no reason to choose them over the n1's imo. Having a 2.5" exhaust is not one, Plenty of people run n1's with 2.5" including me. The n1's will make more power than the 16ve's pretty much everywhere even with 2.5" exhaust and at 0,0.

    People always seem to think that they will lose lowend power going with the n1's, which is false.
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  10. #10
    Weekend Warrior
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    N1's all the way. I'll be running N1's on my 2.5" exhaust setup.
    Bend But Don't Break
    93 SE-R Project 2Door - 2.0VE Gio tune - built 2.3VE up next.
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    Building N/A and Boost, the best of both worlds.
    Quote Originally Posted by SR20GTi-R View Post
    NA is a thinking man's game, alot of people dont have the stomach to play NA.

  11. #11
    Hksbluebird4u
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    sr16 cams @ 15 degrees would have given a bigger difference.
    HKS DANNY
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  12. #12
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    ive also heard from others aswell that the sr16 cams and the sr16n1 cams will yield very close to the same peak whp, the n1 will just hold on to the powerlonger... my n1 cams gained very little over the sr16 cams but they did hold the power better...
    2.0 218/153- 12.9@106
    2.3 270/190- 11.6@116
    2.4 285/210- 11.5@118
    Retired...

  13. #13
    I'm Coming For You
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    Sr16 cams are not bad when compared to the stock sr20ve cams. Just going to agree with Cory. I was under the impression if your revving out to 9K then N1s are better slightly.
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  14. #14
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    Anyone have any straight up dyno comparisons of N1s vs. SR16 (non-N1) cams?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by billc View Post
    Anyone have any straight up dyno comparisons of N1s vs. SR16 (non-N1) cams?
    There was one floating around by Charles I think. The n1's ate the 16ve's alive on the low end, pretty sure both were at 0,0.
    95 200sx
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  16. #16
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    Yeah the sr16 has a weak low cam
    2.0 218/153- 12.9@106
    2.3 270/190- 11.6@116
    2.4 285/210- 11.5@118
    Retired...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jer_760 View Post
    There was one floating around by Charles I think. The n1's ate the 16ve's alive on the low end, pretty sure both were at 0,0.
    And now comparing the regular 20VE's to 16VE's I guess it should be like S3's for the 16VE's and S4's to the N1's

    The N1's will outperform 16VE's hands down but, would the 16VE's outperform the 20VE's?
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  18. #18
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    SCAN0002-1.jpg picture by dkm_87 - Photobucket

    From 130km onwards is the difference of N1 VS SR16....race engine - stupid comp - standalone and good tuning.

  19. #19
    Jah Guide
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    why dont you guys put these graphs on a RPM scale.

    130KM and onards says nothing and does not give a real comparison vs power to RPM
    Good Thoughts Bring Good Vibes Which Bring Good Reasoning

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevo View Post

    The N1's will outperform 16VE's hands down but, would the 16VE's outperform the 20VE's?


    Yes. Just the numbers of the degrees and duration prove this. Of course the tuning will impact your results.

    Do it properly and an SR16VE cam will make more peak HP than any SR20VE (stock) cam.

    At most, 0.9mm of lift on Sr16VE N1 cams compared to SR16VE cams and 8 degrees of duration. (On high lobes)

    The lower end or lobes may "suffer" by losing some duration and lift, but the high lobes simply put the stock SR20VE cams to shame.

    A benefit of applying SR16VE cams to a daily driver is you should get the best economy and having some of the best high lobes of the Nissan factory VVL cam options.
    Last edited by Kyle; 04-19-11 at 09:03 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andreas Miko View Post
    why dont you guys put these graphs on a RPM scale.

    130KM and onards says nothing and does not give a real comparison vs power to RPM
    Only if your concerned about dyno trophies. Its a tuning tool, makes no difference to my tunes if i have RPM or km down the bottom scale!

    If you want to do the maths yourself, sr16ve box with 195/55/r15, 4th gear.

  22. #22
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    Also curious how high is the stupid cr
    Last edited by cory; 04-19-11 at 10:08 AM.
    2.0 218/153- 12.9@106
    2.3 270/190- 11.6@116
    2.4 285/210- 11.5@118
    Retired...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viprdude View Post

    A benefit of applying SR16VE cams to a daily driver is you should get the best economy and having some of the best high lobes of the Nissan factory VVL cam options.
    That was my goal, just gain some mid and high end without spending too much and having good fuel economy, maybe I won't be doing 13 second passes but a mid 14's full trim and be around 185whp would be perfect for my daily driven car.

    I'll just go with my 20VE cams at the moment, if Somebody's willing to take the 16VE's then I could go over a N1 set
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by billc View Post
    Anyone have any straight up dyno comparisons of N1s vs. SR16 (non-N1) cams?

    not exactly what you asked but... not back to back but same motor, same set up

    just different times

    both tuned

    sr16ve: +3, -5

    n1: 0, -3

    i have since adjusted n1 cams settings

    sr16ve: blue

    n1: red



    peace
    No Boost, No Bottle, Just my 70mm Throttle... 98 Lucino JJ...13.6 @ 99mph

  25. #25
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    why do we keep referring to low end?

    who races down low, say below 5000rpm?

    peace
    No Boost, No Bottle, Just my 70mm Throttle... 98 Lucino JJ...13.6 @ 99mph

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by niZmo View Post
    why do we keep referring to low end?

    who races down low, say below 5000rpm?

    peace
    Because low end inertia affects engine torque from every rpm above it.

    Affecting horsepower. This is only really relative to dyno figures. Real world situations wont will rarely simulate ramp acceleration on a dyno.

  27. #27
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    Thanks, NiZmo. Good information.

  28. #28
    9650 rpm crew
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    Quote Originally Posted by niZmo View Post
    why do we keep referring to low end?

    who races down low, say below 5000rpm?

    peace
    Exactly, in fact, the few times I've been at the track I didn't want to be below 6k. For DD is another story, then I wish we had variable valve timing. But who cares we are not doing this to drive these things on the streets... right?

  29. #29
    Still runnin'....hard.
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    For road racing it depends on what track you are on & what gear is optimal for for each turn. If you are doing the 1/4 low end probably won't be a factor since it's balls to the walls but in road racing that's a whole 'nother story. SR guru Mike Kojima isn't too fond of the VE fully bolted on the road course. In his words, "no torque". Hell if I didn't have to downshift to stay in my powerband at critical points I could make up lots of time & concentrate on driving more.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by blusteelsr20 View Post
    For road racing it depends on what track you are on & what gear is optimal for for each turn. If you are doing the 1/4 low end probably won't be a factor since it's balls to the walls but in road racing that's a whole 'nother story. SR guru Mike Kojima isn't too fond of the VE fully bolted on the road course. In his words, "no torque". Hell if I didn't have to downshift to stay in my powerband at critical points I could make up lots of time & concentrate on driving more.
    Cheers, he does prefer the DE hands down for his application and I agree. The DE is more sensible for the application, imho, also.

 

 

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