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Old 01-04-2011, 08:45 PM   #181 (permalink) Like This Post
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I found the easiest thing to do is get hybrid axles and skip the whole spindle swap stuff
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:33 PM   #182 (permalink) Like This Post
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What do you mean hybrid axles? Like just take the 2 axles to a CV shop and have them fit them together? Wouldn't the cost be about the same as getting used axles from a sentra and then getting the spindles?
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:41 PM   #183 (permalink) Like This Post
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I was just going to call Raxles when the time comes, but yeah. I believe it was iczer200sx OR Zer099 who's already done it. There is a thread somewhere with what axles ends are compatible with each other.

Its in this THREAD (http://www.sr20-forum.com/499846-post118.html)

Miko even mentioned it when i bought the P12 trans from him.

It has to be cheaper than messing with changing brake setups, redrilling my wheels and bolt pattern, and possibly having to put new bearings and seals in the b15 spindles.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:46 PM   #184 (permalink) Like This Post
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000 View Post
I was just going to call Raxles when the time comes, but yeah. I believe it was iczer200sx who's already done it. There is a thread somewhere with what axles ends are compatible with each other.

Miko even mentioned it when i bought the P12 trans from him.

It has to be cheaper than messing with changing brake setups, redrilling my wheels and bolt pattern, and possibly having to put new bearings and seals in the b15 spindles.
...its a 2002+ car...vs a 1991-1994 wheel bearing. I always get fresh ones from junkyards in Houston, no rust or issues with the wheel bearing getting dirty. If you're pushing enough power to need a 6spd, then I doubt your factory B13 brakes will handle it. I had spec V brembos on my G20 for a year or so, and then switched to regular B15 Se-R brake setup with ceramic pads and I noticed a huge difference in braking. If I'm going over 120MPH and I need to brake hard and fast, B13s are a no go. Better to just get new spindles and find better wheels. I have 17x9.5s and they fit great. try to find that for under $100 in 4x100. So you have no clue how much raxles would charge you. I think it;s over $400 for the axles...
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:52 PM   #185 (permalink) Like This Post
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well for me Carbotech pads work just great in my stock calipers.
and the cost of be dismounting my tires to have the wheels bored out to fit B15 hubs and put back together and balanced again($430 min)

and i just spent $410 on new front wheel bearings and an alignment. and would be throwning money away to get diff spindles this soon.
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:31 AM   #186 (permalink) Like This Post
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B13/B14 outer CV's onto SpecV axles

Ok i take it back. After taking a micrometer to the two outer CV joints of the SR20 axle and the SpecV axle. The splines are one in the same. The measured identical and have identical teeth. I think what happened when i first tried to put it on was the joint went crooked and actually caused it to chew into some of the splines. After cleaning them up and retrying, it went on with the small help of a 3lb mallet. After the C clip snapped into place it was all good. Its fully onto the shaft and looks great.

So all in all summary is B13 b14 outer joints onto the Spec V axle.

Im extatic right now that something went my way. haha I can keep my brakes and slicks and so on. Love it.

Here is the final result. B13 meets B15 Spec V. Im also gonna post this info up in Coheeds thread with his findings.



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Old 01-07-2011, 05:04 AM   #187 (permalink) Like This Post
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Can you do me a massive favour if still possible.

Measure the compressed length of the shaft (i.e bottom out the inner joint) and measure between the straps that hold the boots on.

If not, that's fine.

I had a suspicion this might have been possible, but i didn't want to throw down the cash to get the parts to AUS and it wasn't exactly feasible to try and get soemone to try that over there.

The P12 factory shafts i have are the same setup. The splines are the same that go into the outer CV, but the P12 factory shafts are too long to use on the B13/14 chassis.

Good find and thanks for posting the information up for everyone.

This also means that if people want to use B15 hubs with the bigger shaft splines they can just use the joint + hubs. (especially for those with issues from drag racing)

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Old 01-07-2011, 12:40 PM   #188 (permalink) Like This Post
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Again the shafts being the same size, at the joint there is really no disadvantage to running the B13 hub. The axle is only going to be as strong as its smallest point which again is the same size as a b13. So even though the rest of the shaft is massively larger than the b13 axle its still has the same size CV connection on the outer joint. I will measure that for ya and post up the info.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:58 PM   #189 (permalink) Like This Post
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Couple measurements

Compressed joint from inner CV Clamp to Outer CV joint clamp center to center measured 12"

Center of inner CV clamp to the wheel bearing contact face on the outer CV where it mates on the hub is 14"

The measurements i got of the inner diameter peak to peak of the splines on the outer CV's of both the B13 sr20 and SpecV axle were 1.096"

When doing this just be very careful that you line the splines up correctly, the way its made is there is a set of 1/8" long or so splines before the C-clip then once it clears the C-clip there is a bit over an inch of splines that it contacts and sits on. If you go crooked at all it wont go on straight for one and damage the splines on the shaft and it wont compress the C-clip correctly to slide over it. Again it may take the persuasion of a mallet or if you have a small press it would be very easy to line up and make sure it goes on straight. Other than that. It was cake and this is definitely good info.
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:43 PM   #190 (permalink) Like This Post
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Thanks very much for the measurements. One last thing, are they the same length on both sides of the car?

We've had a guy in Australia doing drags and he seems to have a great ability to snap CV's right at the point where they enter the splines at the bearing in the hub. All OEM genuine shafts too (not the cheap aftermarket stuff).
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:54 PM   #191 (permalink) Like This Post
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Yeah thats where i broke mine. They are cast steel units not cut from billet pieces. Your only best bet for something stronger is to get a nice billet unit made by Driveshaftshop or something of that nature if you have a company in AU that can make them.

DSS makes performance axles for our car even though they dont show on their site but im sure if you called them and said you just need a nice outer joint made that they could do it and it would probably save you some time.

I broke my axle right at the hub last time out when I did an 8k launch and dead hooked on 25X8.7X13 m&h slicks at 10psi of pressure. Preload and all. If you dont preload you tend to break the stock b13 axles inside the trans for the passenger axle but if you preload the axle will break at the weak point at the hub as thats the first place to recieve the snap.

Both sides are not the same i dont think. When i get the other axle in in the next couple days and put the b13 outer joint on i will take measurements for that one as well.

So is it coming out any shorter than your p12 axles as far as the length is?
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Old 01-07-2011, 04:48 PM   #192 (permalink) Like This Post
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Yeh the P12 ones are much longer. I ended up getting billet replacements for the shaft between the joints made to the exact length to suit.

The P12 ones, when assembled and the joint is in the hub, the lower ball joint is still about 1" away from being able to go into the hub, even with the shaft bottomed out ! The front track on the P12 must be quite wide!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

That's a picture to show the shaft length difference on the short side (your driver side, my passenger side) between the OEM P12 shaft and the billet shaft i had made to suit my car.

The bonus with the P12 shafts is that for the longer shaft, its shorter between the box and the bracket, so there's no interference at the chassis leg and nothing needs to be cut/modified there to make it fit.
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:50 PM   #193 (permalink) Like This Post
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Yeah, It could have been your mount setup that caused interferance. The way its looking on my B13, there should be more than enough room on the frame of the car to clear the axle and CV joint.

Well this should make it much easier for people wanting to do this swap.
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:46 PM   #194 (permalink) Like This Post
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The GA16 axles work.... hmmmm. I thought they might.

Get a final verdict on this and let me know. I have some Spec V axles here. Looks like my bit of research may have been useful for us all. Keep us posted ashton.
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:48 PM   #195 (permalink) Like This Post
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and make a how to for those of us that havent "built" axles before
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:10 PM   #196 (permalink) Like This Post
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The GA16 axles work.... hmmmm. I thought they might.

Get a final verdict on this and let me know. I have some Spec V axles here. Looks like my bit of research may have been useful for us all. Keep us posted ashton.
No, not the GA axles Coheed. The SR20 axle outer CV joints are the same. The GA ones have a smaller input into the outer cv joint.

Dont confuse them. They all use a very similar outer joint style just like most cars do but the spline count and size is different. Again B13/B14 SR20 axles and Spec V axles share the same outer CV joint spline count and size and can be swapped.

Its easy to pull them apart. At first i was like wtf as i could not get the outer joint off the axle shaft. So then i figured it might just be a C-clip holding it in place like how the driver side axle is where it goes into the trans. So I beat it off with a mallet and it came right off. Just be careful not to damage it but it doesnt take too much to get it off. If you have a vice to hold it in it would be much easier. I just held the axle in my arm and wacked it off. Going on just check to make sure the C-clip is not too spread out to where the axle wont properly compress it and go over it. If its too open which mine was after i removed the joint on the Spec V one. Just remove the C-clip and put it into a set of pliers and compress the ends together until its at the point when you put it on the axle that it just slightly sits higher than the splines. other than that, its easy.

It just took me a minute to get it after staring it down for a bit.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:45 PM   #197 (permalink) Like This Post
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Quote:
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Yeah thats where i broke mine. They are cast steel units not cut from billet pieces. Your only best bet for something stronger is to get a nice billet unit made by Driveshaftshop or something of that nature if you have a company in AU that can make them.

DSS makes performance axles for our car even though they dont show on their site but im sure if you called them and said you just need a nice outer joint made that they could do it and it would probably save you some time.
Do you know what they run off the top of your head? Ballpark, specifics not needed.
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:09 AM   #198 (permalink) Like This Post
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I could do that easily. I've done several rebuilds before. They are very simple and the hardest part is hammering off the outer because there is a circlip holding it in place. Other than that, its just a messy job.
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:18 AM   #199 (permalink) Like This Post
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Very messy, I hate grease.
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:26 AM   #200 (permalink) Like This Post
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anything inside need to be replaced while its apart?
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