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Thread: Tuning My Calum R/T

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Posts: 21-30 of 141
2011-10-30 00:26:10
#21
^ Nobody?? ......RE: Dizzy signal Interrupt code P1320.

I am really only worried about the Ignition signal Dizzy issue - P1320. I checked all of the connections and the engine harness today, everything is fine. I have flashed the ECU and the code comes back. I would love to know if anybody has ever gotten this code when using a B15 dizzy with a B14 ECU. The only other area the problem could exist is in the step-down harness I made. I didn't have any issues with the dizzy before I switched ECU's. If I can eliminate that using a B15 dizzy on a B14 ECU is the problem then I would know that the issue is in my adapter harness wiring....

Today I re-set the base timing to about 15*, it was set at 18* previously. I checked the E60 MAF and it reads 1.08 - 1.09 volts at idle which is fine. I also checked the TPS becuase according to Calumsult it was reading 0.4 volts at idle. My DMM confirmed this and I set the closed throttle TPS to 0.5 volts. The problem is that with the throttle fully opened it only read 3.09 volts. I noticed that the fast-idle screw was keeping the TB from opening up all the way so I removed it, I will shorten or replace it tomorrow. Now the TPS maxes out at 3.29 volts. I swapped the TPS and I get the same thing, 3.29 volts. What is going on here?

Also when I am accelerating I seem to hit a fuel cut or timing cut at 4500 RPM every time. Is this the TPS maxing out or might there be another issue?

With the adjustments I made today the car idles a bit lower/better and seems a bit smoother as well!

I can tell there is some real potential here but It still felt better with the RR ECU and advanced timing. I do feel the acceleration brake up from time to time at various RPM's so I guess the dizzy issue is definitely the main culprit here it seems....

Could really use some feedback. Sorry for the long read but I like to make sure you guys are informed about my issues!
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2011-10-30 at 02-34-22. Reason: spelling ;)
2011-10-30 02:42:22
#22
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
^ Nobody?? ......RE: Dizzy signal Interrupt code P1320.

I am really only worried about the Ignition signal Dizzy issue - P1320. I checked all of the connections and the engine harness today, everything is fine. I have flashed the ECU and the code comes back. I would love to know if anybody has ever gotten this code when using a B15 dizzy with a B14 ECU. The only other area the problem could exist is in the step-down harness I made. I didn't have any issues with the dizzy before I switched ECU's. If I can eliminate that using a B15 dizzy on a B14 ECU is the problem then I would know that the issue is in my adapter harness wiring....

Today I re-set the base timing to about 15*, it was set at 18* previously. I checked the E60 MAF and it reads 1.08 - 1.09 volts at idle which is fine. I also checked the TPS becuase according to Calumsult it was reading 0.4 volts at idle. My DMM confirmed this and I set the closed throttle TPS to 0.5 volts. The problem is that with the throttle fully opened it only read 3.09 volts. I noticed that the fast-idle screw was keeping the TB from opening up all the way so I removed it, I will shorten or replace it tomorrow. Now the TPS maxes out at 3.29 volts. I swapped the TPS and I get the same thing, 3.29 volts. What is going on here?

Also when I am accelerating I seem to hit a fuel cut or timing cut at 4500 RPM every time. Is this the TPS maxing out or might there be another issue?

With the adjustments I made today the car idles a bit lower/better and seems a bit smoother as well!

I can tell there is some real potential here but It still felt better with the RR ECU and advanced timing. I do feel the acceleration brake up from time to time at various RPM's so I guess the dizzy issue is definitely the main culprit here it seems....

Could really use some feedback. Sorry for the long read but I like to make sure you guys are informed about my issues!


So I'm sitting here on my couch thinking about my TPS issue when I rememer a little thread I've read more times than I can count. And it hit me like a tonne of bricks. My TPS power wire is also powering other sensors which is why I am getting the low voltage reading. See thread below:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/howtos/47198-how-modify-00-p11-b15s-work-older-ecus.html

The only thing I haven't unhooked is the EVAP stuff which I planned on unhooking anyway, but I will now do it tomorrow and re-test my TPS voltage! Thanks again Vadim!!

So my next and hopefully last major mechanical/wiring issue is with the dizzy as described in the 2 posts above. Feel free to chime in, my fellow B15 owners!!
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2011-10-30 at 06-33-05. Reason: spelling
2011-10-31 01:47:59
#23
4500 rpm fuel cut seems weird, that's not a TPS issue. Maybe the tune on your Calum ECU actually has that low of the RPM cut?

Ignore EGR/patch it. Rear O2 is normal, I had no issues using a B14 4 wire on my old ecu setup.

What did you do to your B15 dizzy?
2011-10-31 02:11:21
#24
I guess I didn't explain it well enough. At 4500 there wasn't a fuel or RPM cut as I can rev out past that point. It almost seems like a timing cut or like I'm switching to my knock sensor map. The power died around that point but picked up again after that. It's weird though because I data-logged with calumsult and all of my voltages MAF/TPS/BAttery etc. are fine at that point and the ECU isn't pulling the timing either, it varies aroung the mid to high 20's IIRC. I can't figure it out! Maybe everything is dizzy signal related.

I do however see timing drop to 0 degrees when I left off throttle and it goes to -4 or -5 degrees when I'm still off the throttle and passing 3000ish RPM on the way down. My base timing is 15*, my maps are conservative, my plugs are iridium and I'm using 91 octane so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

BTW I fixed my low TPS voltage issue, thanks. I unplugged both of the EVAP sensors you had pictured in your thread. The green connector did not affect voltage at all, only the grey connector did, but I figured one was for Evap entering the cannister and one was a vent. No codes or issues with it being unhooked though so I'm happy there!! TPS is now 0.48 to 4.00ish volts.

The dizzy seems to be what is killing my power. I get code P1320 and my generic scanner says it is a "Distributor signal interrupt"? I checked all of my wiring today all the way back to the ECU/step-down harness, everything seems fine. I can't get right at the connection on the step-down where I soldered it because it is epoxied, but if I have to I can get in there. I wonder if the ECU is having issues with the B15 dizzy?? I'm pretty sure others have used the B14 ECU w/ B15 dizzy combo before. I can't find much in searches?

The 4500 RPM issue is gone now but acceleration stumbles severely all over the map. I haven't taken it above 5500 RPM and will not do so until I can get a wideband. I need one ASAP!

If I can figure out whether or not the ECU can handle the B15 dizzy, voltage wise, then I can narrow the problem down to my dizzy going bad or a bad connection on the step-down. I just don't want to tear-up the harness or buy a new dizzy if it not needed. I am not sure which way to go here.

Suggestions? P.S. Sorry I type so much!! :o
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2011-10-31 at 02-14-26.
2011-10-31 02:45:35
#25
No need to unplug the green plug, I just updated the picture and circled the item that you need to unplug.



It's normal for Ignition timing to drop to 5, 0, -5 while decelerating.

Knock sensor is actually used on a stock map up to 4800rpm actually, it's useless after that due to engine noise.

You might have the special B15 dizzy that needs another wire ran to it. Check here: Nissan, 240sx, nissan sentra, 350z, G35, nissan sentra se-r, G20, nissan skyline gtr, nissan silvia, S13
2011-10-31 03:12:43
#26
Hmmm maybe I should plug that green plug back in then. I didn't even bother to check it's purpose in my FSM. Oh well.

So my timing maps are in fact good and ready to be tuned. Okay!

And finally your point about the "special dizzy". I must respond by saying wow! Holy heck and wow again! I have a link to that page on my desktop. I have viewed that page countless times. I used that and Krash's B15/VE how-to and your OBD conversion spreadsheet as my sources, along with my FSM, to make my step-down. Having said that, I am aware of that point and yet.........(B15NEOVVL wanders out to his car with blackberry in hand).....





I never bothered to check. Pays to have a second set of eyes I suppose!

It's a good thing you posted because I was just about to take out the engine!!!
2011-10-31 13:52:18
#27
Awesome man, glad we found the issue! Do you mind if I use your picture to add it to the how to guide?

Here is the best picture that I can find from my P11, looks like it's there:
2011-10-31 21:42:17
#28
Yes thats's fine, you can use any pictures you like! Let me know if you need any more B15 specifics picstures for your write-up as well, I have lots!

Just on my way out to wire up the missing connection on the dizzy. It looks like the JGY site is saying I need to run a wire from the #2 pin on the B14 ecu directly to my dizzy? Is that your interpretation as well??

Edit: Okay so it appears that is the only option. Pin #36 on THE B15 is for ignition check and I don't have that so I will run it directly from the B14 ECU...............
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2011-10-31 at 21-56-34.
2011-11-01 00:56:47
#29
That was going to be my next advice, run the wire from the ECU to the pin. It sucks man!
2011-11-01 02:38:46
#30
Well I'm glad I wasted another 2 hours of my life again tonight! I wired in the extra wire for my dizzy and tidied up my ECU box and step-down harness. Closed everything up yet again (<----- starting to wish I had just put the ECU and step-down harness in the cabin) and cleared the codes. Went for a boot and the acceleration seemed a bit smoother but that same loss of power is back. It happens all over but also it happens always in the 4250 - 5000 RPM range give or take. To explain it, when I'm accelerating it's like I hit a wall and the car barely accelerates and then after the tach climbs again it picks back up and then it happens again. I do notice that when I accelerate slowly right up to 5000 RPM it doesn't seem to do it, only when I try to accelerate with authority. I'm at a loss now. This does not feel like a VE to me. My RR with some cams would have smoked this VE like a cuban cigar!!

When I got home I plugged in the scanner just to see, well the P1320 dizzy interrupt is gone but now I have a P0505 which is idle control. Makes no sense! I wired in the VE idle stuff a week ago and haven't had a code for it until now.

Bottom line the car still stumbles when I accelerate and it is not smooth at all. I am not sure what else I can check.


Edit:
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2011-11-01 at 07-10-16.
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