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  1. #1
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    Default Timing Maps for Tuning

    Timing Maps for Tuning

    I will be taking over the Base Map thread that BenFenner started earlier. This thread will contain base timing maps for people to work with.

    The original thread was started by BenFenner, with his permission am kicking off a new version of the thread. I will maintain this thread, with consultation from Ben.

    OEM Maps
    • Avenir (SR20DET) - 8.5:1 CR - Link
    • 200sx B14 (SR20DE) - 9.5:1 CR - Link
    • JDM Primera (SR20VE) - 10.3:1 CR - Link
    • JDM Primera (Roller Rocker) - 9.5:1 or 10.1:1 CR - Link


    Base Maps
    These maps should have a good margin of safety built into them, they will require tuning for specific setups.

    • Calum ECU Tune - 8.5:1 CR - Link
    • austingtir VE+T Tune - Stock VE CR - Link
    • Ethalpy Styled 10 PSI Base Tune - 8.5:1 CR - Link
    • AEM EMS Base SR20DET Tune - 8.5:1 CR - Link



    Tuned Maps
    These maps are tuned for specific setups, please use with care.

    • BenFenner's N/A VEMS Tune - 1994 G20, 9.5:1 CR - Link
    • GT3076R DET Tune - 1991 Silvia, 8.5:1 CR - Link
    • Vadim's Tune V1 - 7 PSI - 1999 Sentra, 8.5:1 CR - Link
    • Vadim's SR20DE RR - 10psi - 243whp / 234ft-lbs - 9.5:1 - Link
    Last edited by Vadim; 06-06-17 at 09:15 PM.
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    Default Layout for Map Submission

    Layout for Map Submission


    Motor: What Motor is this Tune for? (e.g. Motor Type, Compression Ratio)
    Mods: All mods that would affect timing (e.g. turbo type, cams, octane enhancers, FMIC, Cold Air Induction, etc.)
    Max Safe Boost: The maximum save boost that this tune should be used for.
    Octane: Octane Rating that you used with this map
    Dyno WHP: If you have this available, this would help
    Safe or Tuned Map: Please specify if this map has a large margin of safety built into it so it can be used as a base for others or if it is tuned map with a limited margin of safety.

    Timing Map:Screenshot of the map from TunerPro or your tuning software. This should be fairly simple, press Print Screen, paste into Paint, crop, then save as PNG file (Please avoid using JPG if possible).

    ------
    Copy the layout from below in your future posts.

    Tune Name


    Motor:
    Mods:
    Max Safe Boost:
    Octane:
    Dyno WHP:
    Safe or Tuned Map:

    Timing Map:
    Last edited by Vadim; 02-09-11 at 04:36 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Default Calum ECU Tune

    Calum ECU Tune

    Please note that there are multiple different versions out there, out of all the BIN's that I have gotten, this one so far has been resulting in the best results.

    Motor: SR20DET (FWD SR20, 8.5:1 CR)
    Mods: W11 T25 9psi stock, 91 Intake Cam, FMIC, ThermoBlok Spacers, 2.5" DP/Exhaust
    Octane: 93 Shell V-Power
    Dyno WHP: 230whp
    Safe or Tuned Map: Safe, at least from what I've been playing with there is room for improvement for specific setups.

    Timing Map
    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:17 PM.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
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  4. #4
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    BenFenner's N/A VEMS Tune


    Motor: SR20DE (1994 G20, 9.5:1 CR)
    Mods: Completely stock from air box to tail pipe. Keep in mind the 1994 G20 cam is slightly less aggressive than the 1994 SE-R cam which is slightly less aggressive than the 1991-1993 SE-R cam.
    Octane: 93 (R+M)/2 gasoline
    Dyno WHP: Dyno showed 150 WHP and 129 WTQ.
    Safe or Tuned Map: This map is tuned. Take care when using it. Subtracting 8 degrees across the entire map might result in a good, safe map to use as a base.



    Notes: The grey area is untuned. Only the N/A area is tuned, not the boost section.
    The WOT section was unconventionally tuned to mean best torque by starting with more advanced numbers and working backwards to reach max power. This means there is no way to make any more power on a stock DE with the timing map by advancing the timing more (regardless of fuel used). If you're going to run this map on an engine with more aggressive cams, be sure to retard the timing at WOT and elsewhere accordingly.
    The WOT section is at the verge of knocking on 93 octane.
    The idle section is quite advanced, making initial throttle response quite aggressive.
    The cruising section is also advanced quite far to give good fuel mileage.

    There is room for improvement (likely with less timing) below 5,000 rpm at WOT. There are other timing maps out there (AEM base tune) that make more power below 5,000 rpm than I did.

    Keep in mind this was for a low port head (better flowing than high port).
    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:17 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default

    unattributed GT3076R DET Tune


    Motor: SR20DET (1991 Silvia, 8.5:1 CR)
    Mods: Greddy front mount intercooler, Greddy intake manifold, tubular exhaust manifold, Garrett GT3076R turbo (4-bolt exhaust discharge and an E-cover with 4" inlet and 2" outlet), 3" exhaust.
    Octane: Either 93 (R+M)/2 gasoline plus water/meth injection or straight E85
    Dyno WHP: Dyno showed 414 WHP and 291 WTQ at 21 psi. Tune also made approx. 450 WHP at 25 psi.
    Safe or Tuned Map:This map is tuned. Take care when using it. Subtracting 6 degrees across the entire map would result in a good, safe map to use as a base.



    Notes: The darker area is untuned.
    There is likely room for improvement in the cruising area (better mpg could be obtained).
    Keep in mind the engine had stock cams.

    The DET this timing map was used on was torn down at one point showing absolutely no signs of detonation.
    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:17 PM.

  6. #6
    Turbo Nut.
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    ^ in the 0-43kpa, is that what you were talking about adding in more timing 0-43kpa in the 1500rpm range, 28 degrees timing?
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  7. #7
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    Yes, Brandon. If you have a steady idle with stock cams, you can advance timing there with good results. You can give it a shot with your car, but with your aggressive cam and idle problems it might not work out so well. You won't hurt anything trying it out though.

  8. #8
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    do you have any picsture of the iginiton map itself,the 3d view?
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  9. #9
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    Here's a pic of the 3D map for yah.



    Keep in mind it says "BrandonTune" in the file name but this is not Brandon's timing map.
    Last edited by BenFenner; 01-21-10 at 02:34 PM.

  10. #10
    My Vtec Gives Hugs mmmbah
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    I should put my rom dump on here. Looks like I should be around 24-25* advance according to most tunes, on around 24psi of boost. However, I am at 20* peak on 24psi. I did recently make about 60whp from 3-4* of timing (dizzy was too far retarded), so I am really curious to what this may be able to handle safely.

    Boost is relative anyway, since my 24psi up here would only be 21psi at sea level.
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    Id like to put mine up but its for a ve ecu so im not sure that its of much use to you guys?

    Its a sr20ve-t with gtir t28. Running a chipped sr16ve ecu.
    The usual mods front mount, 550cc, ve maf, 2.5" exhaust, STOCK sr20ve engine.

    So im currently running 16deg of timing at 8.5-9psi of boost? Whats your opinions on boost vs timing on the STOCK compression sr20ve with the gtir t28?

    I think thats low but obviously i dont really have experience with the stock compression ve to know how far i can push the timing up?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by austingtir View Post
    Id like to put mine up but its for a ve ecu so im not sure that its of much use to you guys?
    It is absolutely of use to us.

  13. #13
    My Vtec Gives Hugs mmmbah
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    16* total timing? Post up your timing map.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coheed View Post
    I should put my rom dump on here. Looks like I should be around 24-25* advance according to most tunes, on around 24psi of boost.
    According to most tunes? Which tunes are those exactly? 24 degrees advance timing at 24 psi sounds ridiculous.

  15. #15
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    Coheed/Benfenner: Pm both of you EDIT: dont worry its sorted.

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    Yeah 16deg total so im at around 100 on the TP scale at 8.5-9psi (according to consult) iv left a bit of room there for a couple more psi... probably to much room.

    CAR: GTIR pulsar
    ENGINE: SR20VE (stock compression GTIR T28)
    MODS: 2.5" exhaust, front mount, sr20ve ecu chipped, sr20ve maf, pod, 550cc, 255lph HP,
    FUEL: NZ BP98 RON
    TUNE: SAFE base map

    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:18 PM.

  16. #16
    My Vtec Gives Hugs mmmbah
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    According to most tunes? Which tunes are those exactly? 24 degrees advance timing at 24 psi sounds ridiculous.
    Yes it is rediculous. I am running 20* right now on the top end on 24-26psi(depending on temps outside) and I am running 100 octane fuel. Of course, 24-25psi up here is like 21psi at sea level when you look at total airflow. Not to mention other factors, but it is pretty close to 21psi.

    Is 21psi too much to run on 8.5:1 at sea level on 100 octane? My calculations put me around 85% VE. Which sucks balls. I want to get over 100% but the setup would prob be too laggy. But for the airflow I am pushing I am making about 400whp uncorrected. Id like to make that on a lot less boost, but it may need more timing to get there. The VE map I got when I was NA was conservative by about 4*. Perhaps this map will react really well to the added timing. Or the car will blow up? LOL.
    Last edited by Coheed; 10-03-09 at 11:26 PM.
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  17. #17
    SR20VE-T Boost Junky!
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    whats up with some VE maps?

  18. #18
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    Ethalpy Styled 10 PSI Base Tune


    This map is based on the Ethalpy's Guide. I used it as a base for my other map and it works great. Big thanks to Ethalpy for posting the guide up!

    Motor: DET 8.5 CR Only!
    Mods:W11 T28 7psi, 91 Intake Cam, FMIC, ThermoBlok Spacers, 2.5" DP/Exhaust
    Max Safe Boost: 10psi
    Octane: 93 Shell
    Dyno WHP: NA
    Safe or Tuned Map: Base Map for the most part. This map can take more timing in the vacuum area, but be careful with the boost columns.



    Since Fresh Alloy took down the old posts, here is a quote from Enthalpy's post.
    Quote Originally Posted by Enthalpy
    OK, So you list timing values for over 3500... starting at 32 degrees. What should timing look like below boost? I'll have to check my map, but I think I run it pretty low down in the vacuum.

    Funny, this is a drivability issue, and even though my timing is working out well in the the power band, I spend a lot more time driving in the range below 3000 with no boost... But it's difficult to tune that area. When I make changes at 1.5Kg of boost, I feel it. When I make changes at 2000 rpm in vacuum, its like... uhhh.... ok, did that do anything?
    Alright...I am hesitant to post all this in a public forum as it is alot of knowledge learned form hard work and expensive mistakes. these are some of my personal tricks, but since there is apparently a need for the info to sort out confusion i will post it.
    timing should pretty much level out over 3500 rpm, like this

    for 0 boost:

    500 RPM - 20 deg
    1000 - 20
    1500 - 22
    2000 - 25
    2500 - 27
    3000 - 30
    3500 - 32
    4000 - 32
    4500 - 32
    .
    .
    .
    7500 - 32

    thats a good baseline to start with...rememeber though thats 0 boost...not full vacuum. the reason for having the timing increase as you get toward 3500 is that the actual time that the combustion has to take place gets relatively long at lower RPMs. so the igntion advane should be less. the burn time of the a/f mix is a relatively fixed time for a given intake pressure. so if the time of the compression stroke is getting longer due to low RPM then you want the ignition advance to be less so that you can reach peak cylinder pressures at the appropriate time (15-20 Deg AFTER TDC).

    when i build my timing maps i keep 20 as my minimum timing all the way down to full vacuum but the 3500rpm value goes up to 40 or 42 deg. so it looks like this:

    500 RPM - 20 deg
    1000 - 20
    1500 - 24
    2000 - 28
    2500 - 32
    3000 - 36
    3500 - 40
    4000 - 40
    4500 - 40
    .
    .
    6500 - 40
    7000 - 36
    7500 - 34

    the only weird change is that I like to roll off the timing in the high rpm high vacuum areas...just as a safety measure. when you have timing increasing as vaccum increases you get the equivalent of a vacuum advance distributor. very good for part throttle driving. vacuum advance is necessary for becasue the air / fuel mix is at a much LOWER initial energy state when it is pulled in at a high vaccum. all the molicules are pulled farther away from each other and thus your burn time takes longer. so you need to start the burn sooner to reach peak pressure at the correct time.

    as the car comes into boost you will have boost retard...so say for an example of 1.0 kg/cm2 (14.7 psi) with .75 deg/lb retard you will need to take away exactly 11 degrees of timing. so your timing map at 14.7 psi should look like this

    500 RPM - 9 deg
    1000 - 9
    1500 - 11
    2000 - 14
    2500 - 16
    3000 - 19
    3500 - 21
    4000 - 21
    4500 - 21
    .
    .
    .
    7500 - 21

    the timing retards under boost for the exact opposite reason that it advances under vacuum. witht he af mix coming in at a much HIGHER energy state due to pressure you get a much faster burn rate. so you need to fire the mix later (less advance) to get peak pressure at the correct time. you can see that i would pull the timing out from everywhere. even in places that you might not ever see boost. it's more of a safeguard than anything. also it make s for very linear maps, and ones that are easy to view if you have 3-d map viewing in your EMS software (haltech e-11).

    one of the things that people miss most about making basemaps and tuning cars is the linearity of the system. if you have big bumps or changes in your maps you are doing something wrong. the engine is a remarkably linear device. evene when you include turbocharging...values should always be smooth for both fuel and ignition.
    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:19 PM.
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    Vadim's Tune V1 - 7 PSI


    This map is based on the Ethalpy's Guide. I noticed Calum's maps had more timing in the vacuum areas. I adjusted and smoothed out the timing.

    Map is tuned for 7 psi.

    Motor: DET 8.5 CR Only!
    Mods:W11 T28 7psi, 91 Intake Cam, FMIC, ThermoBlok Spacers, 2.5" DP/Exhaust
    Max Safe Boost: 7psi
    Octane: 93 Shell
    Dyno WHP: NA
    Safe or Tuned Map: Tuned Map, practically a base map based on Ethalpy's Guide. Vacuum has plenty of room for adjustment, boost areas might not.

    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:19 PM.
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  20. #20
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    This makes for some good reading. I have no doubt that when I start my project I'll have all the help I need the do it right the first time.
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    has anybody checked realtime with a timing light at full boost and see what you are actually running. these timing maps are peaking real high for turbo cars. either one the base is way off or the cars are pinging like pistons falling out. when your at peak load the cars are at 30 degrees timing under boost.
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  22. #22
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    Even for an 8.5cr motor?

    With my last tune (Vadim's Tune V1 - 7 PSI), I seemed to have no audible knock or any issues.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Vadim's Tune V1 - 7 PSI


    This map is based on the Ethalpy's Guide. I noticed Calum's maps had more timing in the vacuum areas. I adjusted and smoothed out the timing.

    Map is tuned for 7 psi.

    Motor: DET 8.5 CR Only!
    Mods:W11 T28 7psi, 91 Intake Cam, FMIC, ThermoBlok Spacers, 2.5" DP/Exhaust
    Max Safe Boost: 7psi
    Octane: 93 Shell
    Dyno WHP: NA
    Safe or Tuned Map: Tuned Map, practically a base map based on Ethalpy's Guide. Vacuum has plenty of room for adjustment, boost areas might not.

    this map has 28 degrees of timing at 5 psi dont you think its a tad too much. The only time I see this is if the car mechanically is not synced to the ecu. A stock sr20det map has 8 to 11 degrees in that area. Bump it up a few degrees for some more power maybe not 18 degrees.
    Last edited by Vadim; 05-02-13 at 10:20 PM.
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    supercowboy, are you comparing the stock DET ignition map at 65 TP? Because 65 TP on the stock map may not correlate to 5 psi depending on the MAF used, and the K-value used. Frankly, trying to compare these TP maps with one another is just about useless unless you know you're using the same TP scale, K-value, and MAF.

    I'm starting to wonder how useful it is to even post them on the forum.

    However running 28 degrees of timing at 135 kPa (5 psi) seems well within the realm of the norm for a 8.5:1 SR20DET engine with restrictive stock cams/valves.
    And the other map that has 22 degrees at 170 kPa (10 psi) is right there too in my opinion.
    Maybe you're not used to dealing with such low pressures on such crappy flowing engines?

    I need to post up my current ignition map once I'm confident with it. You might like it better. It has 13 degrees at 170 kPa (10 psi) right now.
    But I have a 9.5:1 SR20DE+T with the low port head/intake and a '91 cam so maybe that's closer to what you're used to seeing?

    I can only confirm the "unattributed GT3076R DET Tune" AEM ignition map was checked with a timing light for accuracy at idle and there's no reason to believe it would be off anywhere else since anything to pull timing was disabled and it's not like AEM is known for significant ignition timing jitters or wavering at high load or rpm.
    Last edited by BenFenner; 02-10-11 at 09:44 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by supercowboy View Post
    this map has 28 degrees of timing at 5 psi dont you think its a tad too much. The only time I see this is if the car mechanically is not synced to the ecu. A stock sr20det map has 8 to 11 degrees in that area. Bump it up a few degrees for some more power maybe not 18 degrees.
    Check out Calum's map though, but I don't have TP to boost relations on that map, so it's as good as useless as Ben said.

    In reality though, your never really in any of those area of the map. The only way to constantly be in the 5psi column is by finding the right gear and pressing the gas perfectly without forcing it to run over to the next column.

    Now I did use Ethalapy's guide for base, then built upon it. I need a real knock light though.

    I did verify my timing with my timing light too, 15*. Unless my timing light is whack. But It seems to be showing accurately with other SR20's that used it on.

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    supercowboy, are you comparing the stock DET ignition map at 65 TP? Because 65 TP on the stock map may not correlate to 5 psi depending on the MAF used, and the K-value used. Frankly, trying to compare these TP maps with one another is just about useless unless you know you're using the same TP scale, K-value, and MAF.

    I'm starting to wonder how useful it is to even post them on the forum.
    I believe he is looking at the PSI correlation to the TP and column. If I could datalog the Pressure, it would make this a much easier process.

    But your right Ben, maps with no boost relation are useless since TP is an ever changing number for every setup. As long as we modify the K value our TP values will never be accurate. Now Tunercode goes away from touching K values, thus Tunercode users should start having similar TP relations to boost pressure.

    Once I get my setup running I'll start posting those timing maps, which would be far more helpful imo.

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    However running 28 degrees of timing at 135 kPa (5 psi) seems well within the realm of the norm for a 8.5:1 SR20DET engine with restrictive stock cams.
    And the other map that has 22 degrees at 170 kPa (10 psi) is right there too in my opinion.
    Maybe you're not used to dealing with such low pressures on such crappy flowing engines?
    Which reminds me, I will need to use a basemap on my new setup (O2 induction mani and external gated).
    Last edited by Vadim; 02-10-11 at 09:14 AM.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Check out Calum's map though, but I don't have TP to boost relations on that map, so it's as good as useless as Ben said.
    I see what he's saying. Calum has 15-17 degrees at torque peak (5,200 - 5,600 rpm) and 69 TP whereas you have 28 degrees at torgue peak and 65 TP. That's a huge difference. But the problem is, 65 TP on one of these maps has almost no relation to 65 (or 69) TP on another map because of how the different MAFs and K-values fuck with TP.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    In reality though, your never really in any of those area of the map. The only way to constantly be in the 5psi column is by finding the right gear and pressing the gas perfectly without forcing it to run over to the next column.
    That's no excuse. The area should be tuned properly even if you don't spend more than split seconds there on your way through it. It's not even hard to do. Well, maybe on the TP maps it is. (Is it hard to tell I despise TP?)

  27. #27
    Dreaded boost junkie
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    I've currently been reworking my timing map as well to try to improve my gas efficiency while cruising and a few other places. I agree that ditching TP for say a boost scale would be a metric shit ton easier. I am super interested in TunerCode to see how that will help. Most definitely will be a future purchase of mine!
    - '93 NX2000 - Highport DE, GTi-R T28 with S14 T04B compressor housing, FMIC, GTi-R intake manifold, 444's, ported/polished head, DET pistons, Cometic headgasket, ARP head studs, N60, Calum Basic, 3" turbo-back exhaust, MagnaFlow muffler, Prothanes, and more. TRADED! For...
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    That's no excuse. The area should be tuned properly even if you don't spend more than split seconds there on your way through it. It's not even hard to do. Well, maybe on the TP maps it is. (Is it hard to tell I despise TP?)
    Yup I know it's no excuse, but I've had no audible knock to worry about it. But with new flow mods I will definitely look into using the lighter version of Ethalapy's timing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nathan_Barstow View Post
    I've currently been reworking my timing map as well to try to improve my gas efficiency while cruising and a few other places. I agree that ditching TP for say a boost scale would be a metric shit ton easier. I am super interested in TunerCode to see how that will help. Most definitely will be a future purchase of mine!
    Once TunerCode supports a MAP yup, but Dave said it's up to the tuner to decide what the voltages translate to still. So what I'm getting is, even with a MAP we might not be so fine and dandy as we hope.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Dave said[/URL] it's up to the tuner to decide what the voltages translate to still. So what I'm getting is, even with a MAP we might not be so fine and dandy as we hope.
    What Dave said is it will be up to the program side to determine the map sensor correlation!

    Which means that I can have a drop down menu in NismoTronic for the end user to select the current map sensor that he is using and it will create the appropriate boost reading given the current map sensor voltage.

    So it will simply come down to selecting your map sensor in the program and it will automatically scale it for you. Can't get any easier than that!
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    It will be a direct translation to the ECU right? No need to go through a bunch of calculations?

    I would be fine with using MAF's and if we could get a direct translation of 4.5v = 10 psi of boost for say a z32 MAF. But I understand that need for calculation values too.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    It will be a direct translation to the ECU right? No need to go through a bunch of calculations?

    Right, it would be direct translation to and from the ECU.

    No need to do a bunch of calculations, that is what the computer is for.
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    Excellent! Thank you guys (Dave and John) a lot!
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    supercowboy, are you comparing the stock DET ignition map at 65 TP? Because 65 TP on the stock map may not correlate to 5 psi depending on the MAF used, and the K-value used. Frankly, trying to compare these TP maps with one another is just about useless unless you know you're using the same TP scale, K-value, and MAF.
    Your right, But when you look at this map even where the tp scale says he is in boost the timing numbers are high. Im just going on what is stated. Another thing you have to look at is the car might be falling back to the knock map if timing is to high. for all we know the car might be seeing stock values in the knock map and the car will drive fine. no matter how you set the map up your full throttle should be in the last 2 columns. When I see a factory map the last 2 columns are in low teens or even single digits. Im sure nissan spent a crap load of money to figure this out. Why not start out withe a nissan base value and move up.

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    I'm starting to wonder how useful it is to even post them on the forum.

    However running 28 degrees of timing at 135 kPa (5 psi) seems well within the realm of the norm for a 8.5:1 SR20DET engine with restrictive stock cams/valves.
    And the other map that has 22 degrees at 170 kPa (10 psi) is right there too in my opinion.
    Maybe you're not used to dealing with such low pressures on such crappy flowing engines?
    In a Gtir stock timing map the car will see 15 degrees of timing at 3000 rpm at 60 tp. So what your telling me is advancing this 13 degrees is ok and a good place to start. In my experience as boost goes up timing goes down. even enthalpy timing theory starts the cars at 19 psi which I still think its much, But again he is going by a typical rule of thumb. take .75 degree per psi of boost.

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    I need to post up my current ignition map once I'm confident with it. You might like it better. It has 13 degrees at 170 kPa (10 psi) right now.
    But I have a 9.5:1 SR20DE+T with the low port head/intake and a '91 cam so maybe that's closer to what you're used to seeing?
    I would like to take a look at that

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    I can only confirm the "unattributed GT3076R DET Tune" AEM ignition map was checked with a timing light for accuracy at idle and there's no reason to believe it would be off anywhere else since anything to pull timing was disabled and it's not like AEM is known for significant ignition timing jitters or wavering at high load or rpm.
    Did you check it at 6000 Rpms Ive seen cars showing different timing numbers there do to bad distributors and hall effects.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    I see what he's saying. Calum has 15-17 degrees at torque peak (5,200 - 5,600 rpm) and 69 TP whereas you have 28 degrees at torgue peak and 65 TP. That's a huge difference. But the problem is, 65 TP on one of these maps has almost no relation to 65 (or 69) TP on another map because of how the different MAFs and K-values fuck with TP.

    That's no excuse. The area should be tuned properly even if you don't spend more than split seconds there on your way through it. It's not even hard to do. Well, maybe on the TP maps it is. (Is it hard to tell I despise TP?)
    K value is a base to where you need to be. Putting a mass air meter causes the tp to go up or down whichever size you go with.

    TP is your load scale on the map. The only way you know what psi is your tp is by a boost pressure sensor. The nissan ecu does not know it has boost it just measure airflow across the maf sensor Then calculates with throttle position and rpm. Then it puts it where it needs to be in the map. Pretty simple.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Yup I know it's no excuse, but I've had no audible knock to worry about it. But with new flow mods I will definitely look into using the lighter version of Ethalapy's timing.
    Doesnt mean the car is not detonating. Timing maps should be dialed in on a dyno makes it much easier to see changing values.



    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Once TunerCode supports a MAP yup, but Dave said it's up to the tuner to decide what the voltages translate to still. So what I'm getting is, even with a MAP we might not be so fine and dandy as we hope.
    Dont need it. There is plenty of tuning with what you have. Most factory turbo cars run maf sensors. There must be a reason.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    It will be a direct translation to the ECU right? No need to go through a bunch of calculations?

    I would be fine with using MAF's and if we could get a direct translation of 4.5v = 10 psi of boost for say a z32 MAF. But I understand that need for calculation values too.
    If you map trace you should see when your car hits 10 psi where it sits on the map.
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    AEM EMS Base SR20DET Tune


    Motor: SR20DET (8.5:1 CR)
    Mods: Completely stock from air box to tail pipe. This means T25 turbo, stock cams, top mount intercooler, etc.
    Octane: 91+ (R+M)/2 gasoline
    Dyno WHP: Not sure.
    Safe or Tuned Map: This map is un-tuned and designed to be safe to use as a base.



    Notes: All I did was open up the base tune (calibration) provided by AEM for the common SR20DET engine, took a screen shot of the ignition table and posted it up. I didn't modify it in any way, and I don't make any claims to this map.
    Last edited by BenFenner; 06-26-15 at 12:42 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by supercowboy View Post
    Did you check it at 6000 Rpms Ive seen cars showing different timing numbers there do to bad distributors and hall effects.
    Admittedly no, we did not. There was no reason to question the health or operation of the CAS and ignition system.



    Take a look at the base AEM SR20DET tune I posted above. Torque peak (5,500 rpm) at 170 kPa (10 psi) is 20 degrees and that includes wiggle room as it's meant as a safe map to use as a base for tuning. Bone stock DET setups that don't breath, so they don't get any air, so you wouldn't be dealing with aggressively retarded timing like you would with an engine that breathes.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercowboy View Post
    I would like to take a look at that
    I'll post up my timing map in a bit when I'm more confident in it. For now though I'll send it to you in a PM if you want. Not trying to hide it, just don't think it belongs in this thread yet. It might undergo some minor changes this spring. Maybe I'll post it up in my build thread for now...
    Last edited by BenFenner; 02-10-11 at 10:27 PM.

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    Supercowboy, take a look at Enthalpy base map, mine is pretty much identical to it, except I smoothed it out and built on it a little bit. Now Enthalpy does mention that being a base map to build on. This could be based on RWD SR20DET. But I can't imagine RWD DET being too different from FWD DET.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercowboy View Post
    Doesnt mean the car is not detonating. Timing maps should be dialed in on a dyno makes it much easier to see changing values.


    Dont need it. There is plenty of tuning with what you have. Most factory turbo cars run maf sensors. There must be a reason.
    That was a 100% street tuned, I was planning to hit the dyno on it, but ended up selling the car before that happened.

    Having a MAF is nice, but MAP has the easier to tune advantage. The problem I have with MAF's is finding a good turbulent free location and finding a used MAF that still has a good idle voltage.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercowboy View Post
    If you map trace you should see when your car hits 10 psi where it sits on the map.
    That's what I did, it's hard to get it right and accurate though. Especially while your driving
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    Man those timing figures are really high. You must has access to some high octane fuels.

 

 
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