Thread: SR20DE-T shoots crazy flames and dies won't start

So here is the whole story picked the car up from some guy in derry has stock sr20de with a sr20det tubular manifold cut and modified to accept a td05h dsm setup. It has the stock USDM ecu with the JDM bin file dropped on top of it and and SAFC for A/F management stock 370cc injectors

The car has had idling issues since day one start it up and won't idle by itself till its warmed up if you let it die after starting it right up it won't fire right up again unless you keep pumping the gas and even then it just cranks for days before starting.... Also the car when cold won't rev past it boosting point till warm falls on its face if you will but I'm patient and let it warm up once warm the thing is nuts no problems will build boost and takes off. It does at some point during acceleration hesitate and will not continue past 130 in fifth gear figured this was just the speed govner but just letting you know.

Car also makes a ticking noise that increases on acceleration then disappears some have said that it's just the common sr20 loud ticking injectors idk

So on to what happen before it died, did a pull 2nd to fourth gear car popped and shot crazy flames (have a side exit so I can see them ) the car has never shot flames before after that car would not longer accelerate and basically died right there. Apon trying to start the car the vehicle basically cranks with no problem and burbs shoots flame but would even start up

So I'm am going to check the basics Fuel injectors ecu fuses plugs CAS rotor dizzy maf

But anything you guys can think of that it might be lmk, help me brainstorm cause this is my first Sr I've dealt with ka's and qr's not sr's

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Do you have a wideband on this car? If not, I would invest the $200 as it is cheaper than a motor.

I would check and see if the fuel injector o-rings are leaking. You can unbolt the rail and have someone turn the key to the on position and watch for leaking. I would go through and inspect/replace plugs/wires/distributor/cap/rotor/etc. Check for boost leaks.

Is the blow off valve recirculating? If not, that could be a reason why the car does not want to idle.

What kind of MAF? Another thing that could probably use a cleaning or replacement.

I have a AEM wide band its reading around 12 when trying to crank

Stock maf

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I'm just curious where AFR's were when it ran while cruising and WOT.

I believe it was around 12-13 when WOT

15-16 when maintaining speed/cruising
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I know this is unlikely, but maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth?

this

as stated make sure the mechanical timing is correct. then I would disconnect the safc-2 and see how the car runs with out it. the cold idle issue could be a head temp sensor issue or the map is messed up in the warm up enrichment section.

What kind of "JDM" bin file?

Not sure tbh

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