Thread: Ground up build questions

So after searching like crazy and making a pretty big list there seems to same standard parts to building a b13 and I'm looking for as much input as possible from mistakes people have made, to parts I just don't need to get started.... Here what I have so far and please feel free at add things I may not know about
The car currency is in diet mode all interior and sound deadening materior is out
cooling
2 row radiator (koyo vs eBay)
Lower thermostat
Underdrive pulleys

Brakes
Front fastbrakes kit
Rear blanks with hawk pads
Stainless lines of course
Altima 1 inch master cylinder

Suspension
Seems like koni with gc is the what everyone uses
I'm leaning toward custom valved and rates bc coilovers
B14 lcas with caster bushings
Energy suspension bushing kit
Large rear sway bar
b14 power steering reservoir

Wheels
15x8 due to the abundance of used tires for hpde

Cage
Kirk racing you weld or auto fab in Maryland still not sure

What are the absolute b13 musts when building for road racing? I haven't ever gotten anywhere in racing reinventing the wheel so any input is helpful. Thanks In advanced!

It really depends on what type of racing you plan on doing (sanctioning body/class). There are so many rules for modifications. Your list looks ok I went with fortune auto coils 510 series custom valved with high spring rates and have been very pleased. I have had an issue with axles so plan to have spares. And power steering fluid has been an issue overheating and boiling out, even with synthetic fluid I would recommend a b14 reservoir it is a bit larger and seals better. That's all I can think of for now.

Stick with the stock thermostat, or even a higher temp one if you go with a good Koyo radiator.
None of that is necessary if you stay N/A.

Don't do the Altima master cylinder unless you're going to Maxima rear brakes.
BC coilovers are shit. The only cheap Chinese made stuff worth anything is Fortune Auto.

That said, if you're actually racing then you need to look at the rules for your class.

i would be getting custom valved and rates on the bcs from 2j racing, i get my b15 stuff from there and they seem to do pretty well with them. i am building the car to actually race it. the list i have is for nasa pt. this car will never see the street.

what is the down side to the larger master cylinder?

autoxse-r your the second one to mention the power steering upgrade i will add that thanks man.

The Altima MC comes with proportioning valves that are more front-biased than the stock MC.
This helps correct for the added rear bias when going with larger rotors in the rear.
Without going to larger rears, the proportioning is the opposite of what you'll want.

If you insist on the larger Altima MC bore, you can try to get the proportioning right with swapping valves around, or a brake bias valve.


(Keep in mind the Fastbrakes front kits claim to maintain stock brake bias when installed by themselves.)

That makes sense, I don't think I'm going to large rear brakes for a while so that'll come off the list for now

real road racing, wheel to wheel or are you talking lapping days/hpde?

some musts i would have

1. accusump
2. oil cooler
3. upgraded radiator
4. front brake ducts
5. fuel surge tank or use the new holly hydramat
6. replace all the old rubber hoses lines clamps

the rest is consumables, brakes, tires, pads, fluids

and power adders/suspension are nice to haves, i would always pick reliability items over performance items personally, from my experiences with chump car, karting, and autox

wheel to wheel is my only interest. i understand the need for hpde but tt and hot lapping is not for me.

i would check the rules for whatever league/series you will be in
throwing parts on a car before even knowing what ruleset you are building for is ill advised.

sometimes they dont allow radiator upgrades/coolers/etc or you pay penalty points for it, including brake kits and any other non stock items you attempt to change

i personally would not touch road racing with a sentra due to the front suspension design and weight.
if u r staying fwd, i'd pick an EF civic, the weight savings and excellent front multilink means tires last forever, the engine is durable, and after market parts r freely available.
thats a personal preference thing

Cooling: Add undertray and ducting.
Cage: custom is the only way to go.