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  1. #1
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    Default HOW TO: B14 Throttle Body Heater Bypass

    HOW TO: B14 Throttle Body Heater Bypass

    Our cars have Coolant running through the Throttle Body, thus heating up the Throttle Body. When installing a Cold Air Intake (CAI), you are bringing cold air into the engine, thus giving the car more power.

    With the throttle body being heated, that cold air can warm up, thus not getting the best results possible out of a CAI. Bypassing the coolant passage way can help the air keep colder.



    CarBibles.com mentions this as an important mod to consider when you install a Cold Air Intake. Source
    Throttle body heater bypass

    Cold air induction kits work pretty well but you need to do your homework first. A lot of cars have throttle body heaters, whereby coolant from the engine is circulated around the throttle body casing. The idea is to warm up the throttle body to prevent icing in cold weather. The problem is that these systems are hard-wired and don't take account of external air temperature, so even in the heat of summer, hot coolant is routed around the throttle body. This is a problem for CAI kits because you've gone to all the trouble of putting a nice kit in to suck cooler air into the engine, but at the final hurdle it runs through a 75C throttle body which heats it up again, negating the whole point of the CAI kit in the first place. The solution to this is a throttle body heater bypass, which essentially involves pulling the coolant hoses off either side of the throttle body and patching them together with a length of copper pipe and two hose clamps. When you do this, the throttle body stays at ambient temperature and the CAI kit gets a chance to do its job. The only downside to this is if you live in a cold, humid climate, you might suffer from icing in the winter. But hey - if you do, reconnect the coolant hoses for the winter...
    WARNING!
    The coolant was designed to run through the throttle body for a reason, to keep the butterfly from freezing shut or open. If you live in a cold area, I would avoid doing this. I personally will go back to stock in the winter.


    I will honestly say it is not too great of an idea to go this route with a Daily Driver car. A better choice is to go with the ThermoBlok Spacer Kit. They have a Intake Manifold/TB spacer. This will give you bigger power gains and a piece of mind


    This is a fairly simple mod that shouldn't take longer then an hour to install

    Items Needed
    • Pliers
    • 1 1/4" Hose Coupler (3/8" might work better)
    • 2 Hose Clamps (You might get away with stock ones with 3/8" Coupler)
    • 2 Rubber Caps to block off old pipe.
    • Screw Driver




    Steps
    1. Take out the Intake to free up some space, disconnect the TPS and other Sensor


    2. Locate the the two hoses that send the coolant to the Throttle Body



    3. Disconnect the two coolant hoses

    4. Then cap off the two coolant lines


    5. Put in the coupler into the one end of the hose and tighten the clamp

    6. Plug the other end of the couple into the other hose and tighten the clamp

    7. Finished Product


    Now I noticed that my water temperature was higher then normal. So that means that the intake does actually cool the water pretty well. I think Redline Water Wetter might do the trick at keeping the water temperatures down though.

    Onto some numbers, now these are not 100% accurate and are not dyno proven. These numbers are from ScanGauge II, and are BHP numbers.

    Base Number: 159 BHP (15% Drivetrain Loss 138 WHP) with 82*F Intake Air Temperature
    After Number 164 BHP (15% Drivetrain Loss 142 WHP)with 83*F Intake Air Temperature

    IF you have any suggestions let me know!
    Last edited by Vadim; 08-28-09 at 09:03 AM.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
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  2. #2
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    Drive train?
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  3. #3
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    Haha I can't spell
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  4. #4
    Sr20det B12 to be
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    damn didnt think it would give you that much extra power.

    think i read somewhere like 1 degree drop in intake temp is worth like 5 of 10 hp
    1990 B12 MKII undergoing Sr20DET conversion, one day
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by L4t3ncy View Post
    damn didnt think it would give you that much extra power.

    think i read somewhere like 1 degree drop in intake temp is worth like 5 of 10 hp
    Really? I doubt it's that drastic, but I've noticed with a CAI I can finally get some descent butt dyno results. The WAI would only feel good in the winter.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
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  6. #6
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    So I drove home, car had a chance to warm up to 180*F Coolant temps. I got home, opened the hood and the Throttle Body was just a little warm, Intake Manifold was just a little hot. Touched the VC and was impressed on how cool the TB stayed!
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

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    lol, thats so comen sence, i dont know why i never thought about that.. lol

  8. #8
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    sooooo... never tought bout this before... nice mod VADIM... any butt dyno results so far?... try it with the Beltronics FX2!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn B View Post
    "Every breakdown is an opportunity to upgrade."

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fernando Alday View Post
    sooooo... never tought bout this before... nice mod VADIM... any butt dyno results so far?... try it with the Beltronics FX2!!!
    But dyno is not bad because the air keeps colder

    Yeah i'm still trying to configure that, it is showing my car as having 120 whp. When I dyned 125 with much less mods ;-)
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

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    So far it seems like the coolant temperatures are about 10*F higher. This should be ok in the winter, help the car warm up quicker, but in the summer might be a little problematic hehe.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  11. #11
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    Hey Vadim thanks a lot for this Info!

    Y made this Mod on my SR20DE. First of all I had to take out the Intake, the sensors to make sure they will keep safe but also I had to take out the Throttle Body because mine is High Port and it was very uncomfortable but possible

    What I noticed was that the Throttle Body temperature was very low after doing this and the Temperature of my engine in general didn't change any bit at all.

    So if yours is HighPort this is possible as well.



    BTW... I live in Costa Rica , so that throttle body heater doesn't work here! The lowest temperature here is like 60 F
    Costa Rica - Pura Vida
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  12. #12
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    I remember the first time I cleaned the throttle body on my first B14 5 or 6 years ago.... I would have done this little "mod" but after reading the procedure of cleaning the TB on Se-R.net I decided not too.

    Cleaning the Throttle Body


    This is one area where the Nissan engineers fumbled the ball. The throttle body and intake manifold "collector" accumulates thick black oil residue over time due to the engine gas recirculation scheme employed on the SR20DE. To really do the job right you must completely remove the throttle body. This is a task as the cooling system is plumbed into the bottle of the unit and is difficult to disconnect and reconnect. Coolant will freely flow from the hoses upon removal and drain your system quite quickly. It's there to keep the temp high at the throttle plate in order to 'melt ' that sludge, DO NOT BYPASS THIS CIRCUIT. I spotted an article somewhere on the web where the author detailed the bypass procedure. If you do, be prepared to repeat this cleaning process quarterly!.. Also, there's a vacuum line attached to the bottom of the unit. Don't forget the throttle position sensor connector.

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    With that in mind we should point towards the oil blow by threads.

    I think with a good PCV catch can and a good oil breather can, you should have just about no oil resedu, especially if your EGR is not there too .
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  14. #14
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    Has anyone ever thought of instead installing valves to close the circuit in the summer and open it in the winter? Also, Maybe running a JDM emission free manifold?
    Lance

    Contact me if you'd like to discuss having your engine rebuilt or if you want a custom built engine.

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    Yup we sure have, the problem is finding small enough on/off switches.

    As for the manifold, turbo folks either run EGR delete's or JDM mani's anyway. I have a JDM manifold.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  16. #16
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    Haha, first I saw this, I just did this on my build. Rerouted the heater hose back to itself as well. Never saw any reason to have the throttle body heated on a track car.

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  18. #18
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    Instead of connecting the hoses to each other..would I be able to get my coolant supply for my turbo from these lines? Which one would be the supply? Closer to the firewall? or does it not matter?

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    I think you can, not sure which one would be better then other though. Start a new thread in the turbo section .
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

 

 

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