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  1. #1
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    Default How to: Adjusting Ignition Timing

    How to: Adjusting Ignition Timing



    Adjusting your timing can give you a couple extra horse power and can improve your gas mileage. A lot of times this will be counted as a "free" performance mod, because you are gaining a few extra horses while not having to do much more then fueling up with a higher octane gas. Now higher Octane gas is more expensive, but the extra MPG's that you are getting should make it up.

    These instructions are fairly similar to the ones by Naji Dahi, found here, which are similar to the FSM ones.




    What will be needed:
    • Timing Light Gun
    • Flathead Screwdriver
    • 12mm Socket and Ratchet




    Process
    This is the quicker/easier way to update your ignition timing.



    1. Warm up the engine until the coolant temperature needle is in the middle, make sure the car is idling under 1k RPM





    2. Open your hood and find and disconnect the TPS sensor. Your engine will rev up for a second then go back down to normal idling RPM's.





    3. Get inside your car and rev up your engine to 3k RPM 2-3 times. This will lock the timing, so that you would get an accurate reading.




    4. Connect the Timing Light Gun. You will need to connect it to your battery and the inductive pickup to the first cylinder's spark plug wire.





    5. Find the crank pulley, there should be a pin right above it, find it.





    6. Now you have an idea on where to point your Timing Gun.





    7. Turn the timing gun on and watch for the timing marks on the crank. The pin above the crank pulley will show you your current timing.

    In this picture my timing is at 16*-17* TDC


    Here is the Crank Pulley and timing marks from FSM




    8. To adjust your timing you will need to turn the distributor. Find your distributor and use the 12mm socket and ratchet to loosen the two bolts.

    First bolt is towards the top:


    Second bolt:




    9. Turning the Distributor towards the Firewall will advance your timing, while turning the Distributor towards the Front of the engine will retard the timing.






    10. Turn the distributor in the desired direction, then check the timing. Make sure not to over do it! If you bump up your timing from 15* to 17*+ then you will need to run 91 Octane rating gas or better.

    Here is my timing at 19*. I am running 93 Octane gas with this timing and so far no pinging or knocking.



    11. Tighten the Distributor bolts and reconnect the TPS then shut off the car. Start the car back up and make sure everything is working fine.

    Suggestion You can make marks on your distributor for easier advancing/retarding of your timing.

    These marks show the timing at 19*, 17*, and 15* on my car.

    Big thanks to Sentrixx, daveracer, and Sneakers O'Toole.

    If you have suggestions or questions please post them up in this thread.
    Last edited by Vadim; 01-26-08 at 06:38 PM.
    Likes LOUROK, pan_duh, Storm88000, PEDRONX2k Liked this post
     
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  2. #2
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    Simply awesome! That is the best advanced timing write-up I've ever seen.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy SR20 View Post
    Simply awesome! That is the best advanced timing write-up I've ever seen.
    Thanks Tommy!
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  4. #4
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    dam dude your car is a guinea pig ..lol sweet write up

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SR20 91 SE-R View Post
    dam dude your car is a guinea pig ..lol sweet write up
    I don't mind if I can use it for someone else's good
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    hi to everybody!
    The English language isn't my native language, for that reason, I don't understand this "rev up your engine to 3k RPM 2-3 times".
    It is like when you accelerate in the traffic light to incite a street run?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbass View Post
    hi to everybody!
    The English language isn't my native language, for that reason, I don't understand this "rev up your engine to 3k RPM 2-3 times".
    It is like when you accelerate in the traffic light to incite a street run?
    This means just press the gas pedal under no load, aka while not driving, but idling.
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  8. #8
    Turbo Junky
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    Awesome awesome write up and great pics man!!!!!!!. I just subscribed to this thread and when I get my car back together I will be printing this out and using it. One question though. My car never idles below 1000rpm. It will when it's cold but as soon as it warms up it will be anywhere between 1000rpm and 1500rpm. Any suggestions?!?! Can anybody on this board help me!!!!!
    Once you go turbo you'll never go back!!! :racer:

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrildo View Post
    Awesome awesome write up and great pics man!!!!!!!. I just subscribed to this thread and when I get my car back together I will be printing this out and using it. One question though. My car never idles below 1000rpm. It will when it's cold but as soon as it warms up it will be anywhere between 1000rpm and 1500rpm. Any suggestions?!?! Can anybody on this board help me!!!!!
    Man I wouldn't print this, the pictures are wayy too big. I wish we could get the auto picture resize like on the old forum hehe...

    I think you will need to adjust your Idle sensor. I believe it's fairly easy, just unplug the TPS sensor and then turn the screw on the intake manifold left or right.

    Check this web page out, he shows how to adjust timing and idle speed
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  10. #10
    Turbo Junky
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    Quote Originally Posted by CovertRussian View Post
    Man I wouldn't print this, the pictures are wayy too big. I wish we could get the auto picture resize like on the old forum hehe...

    I think you will need to adjust your Idle sensor. I believe it's fairly easy, just unplug the TPS sensor and then turn the screw on the intake manifold left or right.

    Check this web page out, he shows how to adjust timing and idle speed
    Hey thanks a lot for the info and link man.
    Once you go turbo you'll never go back!!! :racer:

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrildo View Post
    Hey thanks a lot for the info and link man.
    Anytime
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  12. #12
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    SWEET! the Russian does it again with the pictures

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MY95SER View Post
    SWEET! the Russian does it again with the pictures
    Hahahah
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  14. #14
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    How does advanced timing help with better gas mileage?
    04 Subaru FXT

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremiah 29:11
    "For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future."

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by blairellis View Post
    How does advanced timing help with better gas mileage?
    It allows for the fuel to burn longer, thus less fuel ends getting burned in the CAT.

    The problem is, when you advance your timing, the fuel maps change, so the gains will most likely stay the same. The way to actually gain better MPG's with the timing mod is by getting a tunable ECU, Calum RealTime or Basic, and adjusting the fuel maps, so that they wouldn't change with the timing.

    Now I haven't experienced with this first hand, but a knowledgeable friend of mine explained this process to me. If this is by any chance incorrect, please let me know and I'll update it.
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  16. #16
    El "Mata Hondas"
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    hey guys!!
    Do you know a way to set the timing with S4 cams??.... i mean is really hard to do it cause of the Loopy idle. The marks are always moving all over the place!! I super hard for me... i never been 100% sure i have the correct timing.

    I hear 17 is the most for engines with S4 cams.....is that true??

    Could someone help me please??
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    I actually thought when you have the jwt cams don't you have to run 15 degrees timing or is that just with the ecu?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Sleeper View Post
    I actually thought when you have the jwt cams don't you have to run 15 degrees timing or is that just with the ecu?
    That is correct.

    sentranic, did you enter the Set timing mode?
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  19. #19
    El "Mata Hondas"
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    Well i really think i did...... i did the hole thing of Reving up to 2000rpm for 2 min.Turning it off and disconecting TPS. Then turning it back on and Reving it 2-3 times up to 3k.

    The problem is that at idle speed of 750rpm aprox. is really hard to tell cause the marks move too much. I only can stabilize them by putting the idle at 900 to 1000rpm where the engine idle is smooth.

    Did i mention i have UR pulleys.... i dont know is that an issue too??

    What do you guys suggest??
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    Quote Originally Posted by sentranic View Post
    Well i really think i did...... i did the hole thing of Reving up to 2000rpm for 2 min.Turning it off and disconecting TPS. Then turning it back on and Reving it 2-3 times up to 3k.

    The problem is that at idle speed of 750rpm aprox. is really hard to tell cause the marks move too much. I only can stabilize them by putting the idle at 900 to 1000rpm where the engine idle is smooth.

    Did i mention i have UR pulleys.... i dont know is that an issue too??

    What do you guys suggest??
    Check your crank pulley, sounds like it is loose!
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Check your crank pulley, sounds like it is loose!
    ^Are maybe it separated like DC's pulley did.

    Crank Pulley Separation

    ^Here is the thread on the pulley separation info.
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  22. #22
    El "Mata Hondas"
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DE View Post
    ^Are maybe it separated like DC's pulley did.

    Crank Pulley Separation

    ^Here is the thread on the pulley separation info.
    Well i dont think i have that problem cause i have UR pulleys...
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by sentranic View Post
    Well i dont think i have that problem cause i have UR pulleys...
    ^Correct, this should only occur with a beat down stock pulley .
    Bend But Don't Break
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sentranic View Post
    Well i dont think i have that problem cause i have UR pulleys...
    That is true, but I would double check to make sure it doesn't wobble, if it wobbles on the spot with just your hand, then there is something really wrong
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  25. #25
    1sweetSR
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    what if when i disconnect my tps sensor my rpms stay high? dont go back to 800
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    As discussed over AIM, I'm pretty sure it is the ECU and the Idle screw being too unscrewed.
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  27. #27
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    Default Need a little help

    I am going to be attempting this, this weekend. Any suggestions to look out for? I got a timing gun from Sears a few weeks back.. (Craftsman). I had a problem back in the beginning of the winter where I was losing power at the wheels that I discovered at the dyno.
    (Reference Thread: At Dyno Losing Power - Need Help I got several ppl that suggested to check the timing and do compression test.)
    What I want to do is check the timing and make sure it isn't retarded too much and affecting performance. I will probably advance it once I find problem but for now I want to set it back to stockish (12-13 degrees??) Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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  28. #28
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    Your Knock sensor could be responsible for the timing going way down.

    Stock timing is at 15*, if you want more power set it to 17-19 but 91+ gas will be needed.
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  29. #29
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    Hey Vadim, is the last picture where your distributor is currently at?

  30. #30
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    That was only for 19*, but it varies hehe
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  31. #31
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    nice write up dude

    is it the same for a hiport??
    Uk primera egt saloon :cool:

    Im a Front Wheel Drive Fan!

  32. #32
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    Should be fairly similar
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  33. #33
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    Question: This has bothered me for years.

    Sometimes when I get into timing mode, with the TPS unplugged for the first ten seconds, the crank marks will be placed appropriately. Then, the idle jumps a little higher and the timing marks advance all by themselves to an (estimated) 25* of timing and it will sit there for sometimes two minutes, sometimes five before it will settle back down.

    The only way I can get the car to stop "self-advancing" is to retard it back to 13-15 degrees, and slowly turn the distributor almost one or two degrees at a time to get a PROPER reading.

    This does not have anything to do with a lack of consult. The timing mode is definitely engaged.

    I checked it right after I drove earlier today, and for the first ten seconds, the timing mark was right on 20* for about ten seconds and then it jumps up higher.

    I tried messing with the IACV idle screw and it did nothing so I returned it back to the setting I found it at.

    Why does it do this?

  34. #34
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    Am I the only one that has experience this? I know I am not crazy...

  35. #35
    TunerCode, it's OnTheChip
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    Flaky CLT sensor/wiring could cause this.

    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfddfd2 View Post
    Flaky CLT sensor/wiring could cause this.

    Dave
    This? G Spec Performance - Coolant Temp Sensor, 2.0 (for ECU)

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    Yes, but it could just be the wiring/connection. The connectors are prone to corrosion.

  38. #38
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    does this still work the same way on a ve???

    and is the timing mode rain dance nessacary with a calum ecu???
    -pedro

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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEDRONX2k View Post
    does this still work the same way on a ve???

    and is the timing mode rain dance nessacary with a calum ecu???
    Should be and calum ECU is no different then regular ecu. Now if you have Nissan Data Scan, you can put it into timing mode by a click of a button.
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Should be and calum ECU is no different then regular ecu. Now if you have Nissan Data Scan, you can put it into timing mode by a click of a button.
    hmm...click of a buttone sounds easier....where can i get it!
    -pedro

    1993 nx2000 sr20VE
    1991 nx2000- PARTED OUT
    2008 maxda3 hatch
    2007 trailblazer LS
    2011 Explorer

 

 
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