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  1. #1
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    Default ThermoBlok Spacers / Lowport SR20

    I am starting this thread here as I doubt our local forum will benefit from it. Probably I will end up being the only person with installed kit on a LP SR20 in Bulgaria
    I am not quite sure I will be able to turn this one into a 'How To' thread so this section should be fine.

    It all started few months ago when I bought the kit (new) from a sr20forum member. I didn't get the 'outlaw' stickers so I was aware at the very beginning that my car won't get 20hp+ It took me a while till I scheduled the install due to busy summer. Anyway, last weekend it finally happened.

    It took me (us actually - few friends helped) 2 days.. All kind of tools were used, lots of nerves were lost, wanted to kick some butt.. Started unplugging all plugs from the connectors, unscrewing all bolts on my way to the fuel rail. To get the upper intake manifold out is actually the easiest part and it doesn't really took long. I was happy to have the chance to clean it inside. Not much to say here as I doubt that removal part is difficult and interesting. The pictures below should say most of it.



    I must say I was bad surprised of how I found the manifold. My SR20 is well token care engine and I expected a bit different picture. Unfortunately, and as you can see, it was really dirty inside. It took me a while to make it shine, scrubbing it like crazy.. It was easy to install the spacer between the manifold and the TB.
    When you have all that done, you start to stare at the lower intake manifold, asking yourself 'How the heck I am going to get this thing out?'.. Well, for sure not easy... This is why now I must say that this is a pain in the ass install..



    See the pictures above. Where you put the oil filter - this thing hides 2 of the lower intake manifold bolts... The only way you can access them is to remove the oil filter stand. So far, so good. To do that I had to remove the hydraulic pump and its stand. But before doing that, you have to remove the V bracelet and its 2 side support bracelets. It sounds easy but this is where you waste a whole day.. For the time spent, I could have just took the engine out, do the installation and put it back in the car.

    Believe me, you don't want to do that by your own! One of the guys helping me is a car mechanic and he does this for living. I asked him to leave me as much as possible to deal myself, but still...

    It is very difficult to explain how to exactly remove the lower intake manifold as there are lots of bolts you have to unscrew and also few hoses to unplug so lower and upper parts can disconnect. It is good thing to use the chance to clean the AAC valve and the other valve, which is taking care of your idle when coolant is cold. I also cleaned my fuel rail with the injectors on a special stand. At a certain point you start asking how you are going to remember each bolt and nut position as you unscrew all the time.. The installation manual says few important things about few washers which are very important not to lose. They are all connected with the fuel rail removal so pay attention.

    There is a pad just under the oil filter which prevents oil spill over the engine when filter gets changed. I had to remove this pad as it was on my way all the time and without its removal it was almost impossible to do anything.
    So I scrubbed the lower intake manifold, cleaned a bit the head ports and installed the spacers. Than I put back the lower manifold and this is when real problems started. The V bracelet wouldn't fit anymore if attached to the manifold with the support bracelets. So you have to chose - the left&right support bracelets OR the v bracelets. But not both - no way you can do that. This is all due to the spacers thickness which makes the manifold go back and.. than you can't put anything back together the way it was.
    Another funny thing is the manual says that due to clearance issues you do not have to use the very right bottom screw on the lower manifold?! Are you guys kidding? To leave the mani being hold by simply one nut on its right side? I had to customize one of the bolts and reduce its head on 1/2. If not, its head won't let you put your oil filter back..
    Below is a picture of how the things look under the manifold where you have to work so you can adjust the V bracelet and pretty much everything else. As I shared with friends, you waste most of your time thinking of from where to do something - from under the car or from under the hood. Lots of tough decisions to take and this is no joke.



    When all this is done (which happened on the second day) it is time to start putting back the upper manifold. Pictures below are almost what you get in the end.



    There are 2 bracelets which are connecting the plenum with the head. They are completely off their original position as the manifold stands higher and behind with the spacers. So I had to figure out something and I did. Put some bigger nuts and washers under the bracelets so they can fit the original holes... Didn't mentioned anything about the coolant bypassing but there is not much to say about it really.

    To install this kit on a LP SR20 you definitely need to be patient, creative, skillful, tools equipped, and familiar with the engine. Which makes me say that such an installation get 9 out of 10 for being difficult.
    Below is what I have removed from the engine due to the installation (ignore the oem airbox pipe)



    Good things about the kit - all included bolts, nuts, washers, the spacers - everything is well done and it is fully enough for the swap (besides the extra nuts I had to use under the bracelets). But this is where the good things end up. Everything else is so difficult, complicated and really not worthed imo.

    I cleaned everything I can, including the MAF. Also readjusted the TPS and the idle. Car feel good now, runs great. If I have to answer if I feel any difference - No, not really. Does it worth the efforts and money - No, not really. Will it improve anything at all - it should, at least physics prove it. But will I notice a thing - I doubt it.

    If I could just read such thread before I bought the spacers, I wouldn't even think about getting them in the first place. Now I know why Outlaw Engineering stated bad numbers for the LP SR20 and why they never end up installing this kit to such engine. Because, it is pain in the ass (as I already mentioned it..). So my advise - don't mess with that thing.. Or if you do, don't go far to the spacer between the head and the lower manifold. You won't get such good numbers and etc. but ask me if my manifold is really cold or at least warm after driving? Yes, it is. Maybe it is not that hot as it used to be before (again physics) but it is not possible to leave your hand there for more than a second.

    At the end of the day, it is all your decision If it is up to me - I am just a stubborn guy who had a free weekend and extra 100$.
    Sorry for the huge thread and please excuse my English. Now I go to bed.

    Good luck anyway!
    Last edited by martin7937; 09-22-09 at 04:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    Moving this to the How To's
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vadim View Post
    Moving this to the How To's
    Thanks

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    In addition - last night I figured out it won't be a bad idea to keep the TB coolant line in use as before, BUT - using this thing:


    Using the above (and an additional hose with clamps) I will be able to let the coolant go through the TB during winter time. IMO the spacers are not useful during winter time and it is a better idea to keep the TB heated when the outside temperature is low. So instead of rerouting the hoses every summer/winter, this should make it simple.

  5. #5
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    ^I've been looking forever for something like that. Where did you find those?

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    Quote Originally Posted by martin7937 View Post
    In addition - last night I figured out it won't be a bad idea to keep the TB coolant line in use as before, BUT - using this thing:


    Using the above (and an additional hose with clamps) I will be able to let the coolant go through the TB during winter time. IMO the spacers are not useful during winter time and it is a better idea to keep the TB heated when the outside temperature is low. So instead of rerouting the hoses every summer/winter, this should make it simple.
    Oh snap! I've been looking for those like crazy too. Do those basically have an on off switch?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dabrits View Post
    ^I've been looking forever for something like that. Where did you find those?
    He is in Bulgaria, so good luck finding them here
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

  7. #7
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    Well, these are 3 way - it makes no difference how you use them - meaning - if the inlet is the single pipe or it is the outlet. And yes, they have a control bolt - turning it clockwise you close that circle.
    I don't have one of these yet, I just figured out it will be useful to get one. It won't be a big deal to find it myself I think. It is a very common part in auto LPG systems here. Plus, it is also common in different domestic water piping. It might not be a bad idea to check on ebay but I don't know the English word of this thing, so I will stick to local seller
    P10 eGT 10:1 LP SR20DE | Kumho KU31 205/50/15 | EBC Brakes + SS Lines | Kyb Excel-G + Tein S.Tech | Xedox FSTB + RSTB | 2.5" SSAC | 2.25" Magnaflow Cat-back | P11 GT 5MT | Fidanza Flywheel | UR Pulleys | B15 Clutch | Walbro FP | NGK BKR6EIX | P11 WAI Intake/MAF + JWT Pop Charger | JWT S4 | Outlaw TB Spacers | 370cc DET Injectors | NIStune RT | Innovate LC-1 WB

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin7937 View Post
    Well, these are 3 way - it makes no difference how you use them - meaning - if the inlet is the single pipe or it is the outlet. And yes, they have a control bolt - turning it clockwise you close that circle.
    I don't have one of these yet, I just figured out it will be useful to get one. It won't be a big deal to find it myself I think. It is a very common part in auto LPG systems here. Plus, it is also common in different domestic water piping. It might not be a bad idea to check on ebay but I don't know the English word of this thing, so I will stick to local seller
    I found some parts similar to yours on ebay, but not the same one. How much would it be to ship one to the states?

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    I have no idea, really. It should be anything from 20-25 to 30-35 USD. I must check. I will take time and visit a shop which might have these for sale. I do not expect prices more than 3-5$ a piece so.. I will let you know.
    Maybe if there are any and I send you few pieces it will worth more the shipping price.
    P10 eGT 10:1 LP SR20DE | Kumho KU31 205/50/15 | EBC Brakes + SS Lines | Kyb Excel-G + Tein S.Tech | Xedox FSTB + RSTB | 2.5" SSAC | 2.25" Magnaflow Cat-back | P11 GT 5MT | Fidanza Flywheel | UR Pulleys | B15 Clutch | Walbro FP | NGK BKR6EIX | P11 WAI Intake/MAF + JWT Pop Charger | JWT S4 | Outlaw TB Spacers | 370cc DET Injectors | NIStune RT | Innovate LC-1 WB

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    Quote Originally Posted by martin7937 View Post
    I have no idea, really. It should be anything from 20-25 to 30-35 USD. I must check. I will take time and visit a shop which might have these for sale. I do not expect prices more than 3-5$ a piece so.. I will let you know.
    Maybe if there are any and I send you few pieces it will worth more the shipping price.
    Ok thanks. Just keep me posted. I've looked all over here and can't find that piece. I really like the one on the right the best.

  11. #11
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    I haven't forgot that I promised to look around and advise of availability and prices of such connector.
    Checked few places today but unfortunately I didn't find any. Two of the stores said they no longer have them.
    Later on I found a similar connector but it was plastic and way off the size we need. It was like three times bigger.
    I know it takes me a lot to find time to search. But I need to find one for myself as the winter is coming and I want to be prepared. I will keep you posted.
    P10 eGT 10:1 LP SR20DE | Kumho KU31 205/50/15 | EBC Brakes + SS Lines | Kyb Excel-G + Tein S.Tech | Xedox FSTB + RSTB | 2.5" SSAC | 2.25" Magnaflow Cat-back | P11 GT 5MT | Fidanza Flywheel | UR Pulleys | B15 Clutch | Walbro FP | NGK BKR6EIX | P11 WAI Intake/MAF + JWT Pop Charger | JWT S4 | Outlaw TB Spacers | 370cc DET Injectors | NIStune RT | Innovate LC-1 WB

  12. #12
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    Cool. Thanks man. This is the best I've found.

    http://www.pondaeration.com/NEW%20HI...SITE/order.htm

    Haflway down the page.

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