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Thread: B13, B14, B15 Suspension Information...

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Posts: 41-50 of 162
2009-11-02 17:26:26
#41
Originally Posted by Shawn
I wish I could help. I get totally and completely confused by the various Koni options. Somebody with expertise is going to build me a set...this spring.

You could re-read Steves (98sr20ve) thread on the subject, it may clarify for you. Or you could bump his thread and ask your specific question.

Folks like Wes (Steve, Mike K, etc...) or the dudes at Overkill Engineering will know the correct answer for sure.

I don't know if that helps or not.

Shawn B

I didn't get a notification that you had responded.. I had read Steve's post that you linked in this here "ulitmate suspension thread", but I couldn't gain clarity..

I might have to contact overkill engineering...

Originally Posted by grandmasride
I used b14 monroe sensatrac housings w/ b15 koni yellows.
i'm running 450 lbs in front and 400 in the rears.
i dunno anything about shortening the strut, basically, your lopping off the top where the stock spring perch sits and drilling a hole in the bottom of the housing, slipping the koni cartridge in and bolting it down.
no rocket science there.
i hope that helps

*edit* the way I explained about is if your using coilovers.
if you plan to use springs, the job is even easier!

i had the maxima inserts before. I believe you can only use them w/ maxima housings since the diameter is much larger. I think those kill the spec v inserts.
yeah, I am using Hypercoil springs.. but B14 strut housings will fit and work fine on a B13 eh?? hmmm... ok
2009-11-23 01:30:48
#42
Originally Posted by Shawn


Nissan OEM - You get new ones automatically when you buy strut boots. (See dust boots.) You cannot buy them seperately.

Dust Boots

(Application: B13, B14, B15)

Keeps your expensive new struts working properly. Cheap insurance that you don't get grit and grime into the working mechanisms. (Also "strut boots.")

Nissan OEM - Buy two (2) pairs of front dust boots. The front OEM dustboots have removable bump stops. They just pop out by hand. The rear OEM dustboots have the bumpstop built in, you cannot remove it.
Courtesy Nissan, forum friendly spot for OEM parts:
Sentra / NX Parts (B13) 1991-1994 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

KYB - KYB Shocks and KYB Struts for High Performance Cars and Trucks They have them. I'd personally go OEM Nissan, but how difficult is it to make a strut boot?
If I am correct on this, can we add part number 54052M to the Nissan front dust boot list? I believe it's the OEM Nissan part number.

2009-12-11 13:11:45
#43
energy suspension also sells poly dust boots
2009-12-17 21:59:10
#44
FYI before putting in the IKEA brace. It might help to cut a bit out on the bottom where it covers the fuel pump cover. I need to get in there and having the IKEA brace right over the top really makes dealing with it quite difficult. I'm not sure how much this will reduce the effectiveness of the brace, but I would consider cutting along the red line to give a bit more room:

2010-01-06 01:54:45
#45
Originally Posted by Isfahan
I'm not sure how much this will reduce the effectiveness of the brace, but I would consider cutting along the red line to give a bit more room:



Should be "none" if the steel is 16 ga or so. That piece isn't welded anyway. Arches are strong, too. Remember the strength of the IKEA brace is the car is trying to deform that opening and either pulls or compresses your added bracing,that cutout will make zero diff IMHO.
2010-01-06 02:28:38
#46
The Ultimate guide to Suspension and Handling Part 1, Wheels and Tires

Good MotoIQ to watch. Mike covered wheels tires this installment but I find I usually learn something new reading his columns.

Shawn B, if it wasn't Mike K, I'd call this thread-jacking
2010-01-06 17:43:33
#47
Originally Posted by vqman
If I am correct on this, can we add part number 54052M to the Nissan front dust boot list? I believe it's the OEM Nissan part number.


It shall be added.

Originally Posted by 10psigti
energy suspension also sells poly dust boots

Good to know. Any links? Otherwise, I can search that out easily enough...

Originally Posted by Isfahan
FYI before putting in the IKEA brace. It might help to cut a bit out on the bottom where it covers the fuel pump cover. I need to get in there and having the IKEA brace right over the top really makes dealing with it quite difficult. I'm not sure how much this will reduce the effectiveness of the brace, but I would consider cutting along the red line to give a bit more room:


Nice catch. No one has ever addressed that issue to my knowledge.

Originally Posted by superblackz
Should be "none" if the steel is 16 ga or so. That piece isn't welded anyway. Arches are strong, too. Remember the strength of the IKEA brace is the car is trying to deform that opening and either pulls or compresses your added bracing,that cutout will make zero diff IMHO.

Agreed.

Now I am going to add Isfahans picture and "cut line" to the IKEA brace section.

Originally Posted by superblackz
The Ultimate guide to Suspension and Handling Part 1, Wheels and Tires

Good MotoIQ to watch. Mike covered wheels tires this installment but I find I usually learn something new reading his columns.

Shawn B, if it wasn't Mike K, I'd call this thread-jacking

Thanks for that tip and link. Now I am going to have to read all his articles on MotoIQ and include them (quotes and links) into the Suspension Thread at the appropriate places.

No way that Mike K, or any of his articles, could thread jack The Suspension Thread. As you well know, he is Thee Main Guru. I am practically a disciple of Mikes. Sh*t, that sounds like a cult ().

The Divine Church Of The Almighty Suspension. The Holy Grail Of Handling On Rails. The Cult Of Cornering.

___________________________________

And I could ReSearch this question, but you may know this off the top of your head.

Which aftermarket mounts (GC, Cusco/Stillen, Tien, O.E.M., etc...) work with coilovers and which ones work with standard (Nissan OEM replacement) springs like Hypercoils and Road Magnets?

That vital information is NOT in the Suspension Thread. A serious oversight on my part.

VQman got me thinking about it, I went and checked the Suspension Thread (no, I don't remember everything) and I have not addressed this question.

If you know (for a fact), please educate me.

Shawn B
2010-02-24 17:47:09
#48
hey. im new here. does ant1 hav any specs for my bf13?
2010-02-24 19:22:52
#49
I have seen specs for the bff13, but not the bf13...
2010-05-13 21:51:24
#50
Mike Kojima at his best:

Finally when the front of the car is lowered, the bump steer becomes extreme. This is when the steering linkage tie rods and the lower control arms go though different arcs when the suspension is compressed causing the wheels to steer even when the steering wheel is not being moved. This causes instability under braking, cornering, hitting bumps and acceleration.



Mikes Project Spec-V

To correct the bumpsteer, we eliminated the tie rod on the steering linkage and replaced it with another spherical bearing. We then drilled out the taper on the steering spindle arm and bolted the bearing directly to the spindle arm on the opposite side as stock. This puts the steering linkage much close to being in line with the lower control arm in its new position. Then we used shims to adjust the steering linkages position until we were able to get rid of much of the bumpsteer. These changes should give us much more front bite and reduce body roll under hard cornering.


Source:
Project Nissan Sentra Spec-V part 5; Lessons in Geometry

Forum member Hiddenimage on b15u.com decided to make these for us:


This is my new steering end link instead of our dumb ball joints. You can now install this under the spindle arm instead of on top. On really lowered cars, we have huge bumbsteer. This takes care of that. You can also adjust it with different spacers. I had a machine shop make the rod out of chromoly steel with one end having a 5/8x18 thread and the other end is threaded to our steering arm. Then I bought a chromoly 5/8 rod end from summit that is forged. Way stonger than the oem stuff. No one makes a kit for us-so I'll make it myself




Before:


Notice the huge angle difference between the lower control arm and the steering rod. Not good at all.


After:


The steering rod is now parallel with the lower control arm which = no bump steer.


Kits are for sale here:
Parts to eliminate bump steer - B15U.com - Nissan Sentra Forum
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